bleed system 150 mariner

[ysb]

Hello everyone, i have a1985 150 mariner, this engine will crank fairly easy but will die when you put it in gear. if you give it fuel and put it in gear it will continue to run and once you take off it does great. just will not idol well.
hole shot good,wot good, any thing above 1800 rpm great, just bad idol. i have rebuilt carbs, fuel pump, replaced hoses, and decarbed among other things. i found today a bad check valve on the bleeder system, can this cause my problem. thanks

 

[hkeiner]

Re: bleed system 150 mariner

Yes it can, but so can a lot of other things. The below linked guide lists the many possbile candidates

By the way, how did you determine that a bleed check valve was bad?

 

[ysb]

Re: bleed system 150 mariner

Yes it can, but so can a lot of other things. The below linked guide lists the many possbile candidates

By the way, how did you determine that a bleed check valve was bad?

i removed hoses and blew through valves, all 5 and one was bad. thanks for info

 

[hkeiner]

Re: bleed system 150 mariner

Just to be sure I understand, did you remove the bleed check valves from the engine block before blowing through them? Also, what indicated a bad valve... being able to blow through the hose nipple end of the valve or not being able to blow air through the hose nipple end of the valve?

I ask because I've been wanting to test the bleed check valves on my motor too. It seems that it would be hard to blow in to the valves while they are still installed and also hard to detect if a valve is working OK by blowing in them by mouth. I also thought that the flow through these one-way check valves is from the motor (threaded) side towards the hose nipple end and so one should not be able to blow air in to the hose end of the valve for it to be OK. Is this right? I would like to avoid removing the valves for testing if that is possible.

Thanks in advance for a step-by-step description of what you did.

 

[j_martin]

Re: bleed system 150 mariner

Just to be sure I understand, did you remove the bleed check valves from the engine block before blowing through them? Also, what indicated a bad valve... being able to blow through the hose nipple end of the valve or not being able to blow air through the hose nipple end of the valve?

I ask because I've been wanting to test the bleed check valves on my motor too. It seems that it would be hard to blow in to the valves while they are still installed and also hard to detect if a valve is working OK by blowing in them by mouth. I also thought that the flow through these one-way check valves is from the motor (threaded) side towards the hose nipple end and so one should not be able to blow air in to the hose end of the valve for it to be OK. Is this right? I would like to avoid removing the valves for testing if that is possible.

Thanks in advance for a step-by-step description of what you did.

Just get a syringe, like is used to give a shot, only without the needle. Put a piece of hose on it, and put the other end over the nipple of the check valve. You should be able to withdraw the plunger, maybe getting a bit of oil, but it should resist you pressing it in.

Not hard at all, and it doesn't involve a nasty taste in your mouth.

 

[ysb]

Re: bleed system 150 mariner

Hkeiner, I removed the hose from each check valve and attached a 12" peice of hose and blew against the valve you should not be able to blow thru it, in my case the valve was stuck open and I was able to blow air thru it easy, also you should be able to suck air thru them to make sure their no stopped up. as J Martin said you could use a syringe

 

[hkeiner]

Re: bleed system 150 mariner

I didn't want to hijack this thread too much so I posted a separate question on the testing of the bleed line check valve located at the lower bearing. In short, I am asking whether this check valve is also worth testing as a possible cause of poor idle or excessive smoke at idle

This is the new post.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=431055