Help a fellow boater out

Joined
Jun 21, 2004
Messages
26
I will start with alittle history of my problem. Fisrt thing is I have a 1994 mercruiser 3.0l with the EST ingnition. This problem started at the tail end of the season last year. The engine starts fine and seems to idle good It idles in the water at about 750rpms. This is what is going on we would get it on the water would run great for about a 30min to ahour and then started to cut out not bogg down at around 3000rpm's. so I talked to a service shop in town and told me to start my changing all the filter in the carb and add a water seperator that worked for one outing then started to repeat problem. So next I replaced the coil and thermo and started to use higher octane fuel that worked for on outing. Then the season was over. <br /><br />So this year after unwraping boat took it out to the same problem. So this time I checked my dis cap and all the contacts on the inside of the cap were rusty and corroded(sp) and the rotor was in the same shape so I replaced . The ignition module doesnt look in the best of shape but all the connectors and plugs are clean. So ran the boat after I replace those parts and still had a problem but not quite the same. This time it is not cutting out now it is like a fuel problem once it hits the higher rpms now it is bogging if I let off on the throttle it will not stall if I let it sit abit it will run for 15 minutes them it starts all over again. Now one other thing is that if I anchor and let the boat sit of a while it is hard to start but if I kind starting it like every 1/2hr or so starts no problem it is running at about 145-160temp. I was told that is right running temp for this engine. <br /><br />I was looking at the carb and I noticed on the auto choke it has these setting and my book says it should be 2 marks to the right of the center mark mine was set 4 marks to the right so I reset it back to were the book said still no different.<br /><br />I seem to think either I am getting vapor lock if so how do I fix that.<br />I also think the carb needs to be rebuild what do you guys think? wouldn't hurt would it<br />Maybe fuel pump? the sight line is clear no fuel in it.<br />A friend of mine told me a buddy of his had this some problem and changed eventhing just to find out it was the fuel sending unit on the tank I have never checked that. I have checked the fuel vent it is clean and still runs the same with the fuel cap off. Checked my plugs and they look fine they have light tan deposits on the tips and electrodes. Oil smells fine no gas smell.<br />Anyone have any Idea's please pass them on. I am having a huge party at my house on the 16th and I want to be able to take all the kids out in the boat.
 

Don S

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Aug 31, 2004
Messages
62,321
Re: Help a fellow boater out

In a nutshell, what's the problem?
 

searay_89

Cadet
Joined
Jul 4, 2005
Messages
21
Re: Help a fellow boater out

This problem sounds similar to mine. I have 89 3.0L and will run pretty much as you describe - great for 1hr, hard starting if hot etc. I have replaced everything fuel and ignition related (see my recent post). Although the experts on this board disagree - I think this could be related to the fuel, and indeed vapor lock. In a very non scientific experiment, I seem to have better luck with certain brands of fuel, and bad luck with others. I still can't fully fix the problem.<br /><br />Don't rule out ignition coil, or the other items you mentioned, also check the timing and make sure that's correct. Also - run your blower all of the time - seems to cool the engine compartment a bit.<br /><br />I find that my boat will barely run with the electric choke and I have disabled it completely.
 

rogerwa

Commander
Joined
Nov 29, 2000
Messages
2,339
Re: Help a fellow boater out

Form my expereince the vapor lock problem will only affect your starting as when the fuel is moving rapidly it does not have the time to heat up from the engine temp. You may look at your plug wires as they may be getting hot and losing their conductivity. This is an easy, relatively cheap thing to try and probably needs replacing anyway.<br /><br />I had a car once that when it got warm would start running badly. Pretty soon it would kill until it cooled. It was the ignition module.<br /><br />Also, check fuel/water separator or warer in the tank??
 
Joined
Jun 21, 2004
Messages
26
Re: Help a fellow boater out

Searay I changed my coil last season. I could have gotten a bad one I guess.<br />You say your boat will not run with the electic choke? Does it run better with it disconnected? Someone mentioned that maybe my choke wasnt shutting down and staying open told me to disconnect it to.<br />Rogerwa- I took alook at my plug wires today and one of them doesnt look all that great on the plug side not the side that connects to the dist cap all other ones look great. Water separator was just replaced last weekend and no water in it.<br /><br />I only have 1/3 of a tank of gas left in the tank I think I will try a better gas place this weekened to see if any differance with the better gas.
 

tommays

Admiral
Joined
Jul 4, 2004
Messages
6,768
Re: Help a fellow boater out

and how did the water separator look after the first outing that it ran good on its only going to hold a few ounces of water and then pass it to the carb again<br /><br />you need to empty it in to a glass jar and see if water settels to the bottom<br /><br />you fuel tank can hold a LOT of water that may have to be siphoned off the bottom of the tank or change a LOT of filters<br /><br />tommays
 

searay_89

Cadet
Joined
Jul 4, 2005
Messages
21
Re: Help a fellow boater out

jw<br /><br />Not sure why I mentioned the choke - just that my boat never needs it (nor wants it) - even when it's only 35deg out. Not likely related to your problem. To disable the electric choke there are 2 steps<br /><br />1) disconnect purple wire from choke<br />2) disengage the choke spring element from the carb choke plate.<br /><br />Second step requires removing the choke retaining screws and taking the choke off the carb - then reinstall without letting the spring element and choke plate couple together. Either that or you can just loosen the screws and turn the choke significantly until the plate is always open.<br /><br />If you just do step 1 above - the boat will ALWAYS be choked - not very desireable<br /><br />good luck with your problem - let me know if you find anything
 

searay_89

Cadet
Joined
Jul 4, 2005
Messages
21
Re: Help a fellow boater out

J,<br /><br />Your mentioned that you changed the coil last season. Did you do this before or after your problems started? I think it's pretty critical to get the correct coil for the application. Some coils are intended for use with a resistive element, and some are not. The experts will know the details.<br /><br />Also a question for the pros - If there is a water problem with the fuel, why would this only show up after a relatively long warm up period? And why would it go away after cooldown? Thanks.
 

tommays

Admiral
Joined
Jul 4, 2004
Messages
6,768
Re: Help a fellow boater out

add a water seperator that worked for one outing then started to repeat problem
i can only advise based on what you say you need to check the filter for water it is very likely full again<br /><br />tommays
 

rogerwa

Commander
Joined
Nov 29, 2000
Messages
2,339
Re: Help a fellow boater out

I'm not sure you can tell bad plug wires from good ones just by looking at them. Even measuring resistance with an ohm meter is only partially effective in that you could have cracks in the boot or cross induction.<br /><br />Best way to rule them out is to replace them.
 

lowshovel1

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Dec 11, 2004
Messages
135
Re: Help a fellow boater out

rogerwa,--that module must have been atached to a Ford? I carried ice in a cooler in Texas for my 78 F350---same problem
 

rogerwa

Commander
Joined
Nov 29, 2000
Messages
2,339
Re: Help a fellow boater out

It was a Honda.. WE put a coil from '57 chevy in it to rule out the coil..
 
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