Re: ingnition swap
The switch to electronic ignition should only require removal of the points and the plate they mount to...it's not necessary to replace the distributor, cap, coil or rotor, although the individual doing the conversion may have.<br /><br />I agree with what the others have said, but here's a few other thoughts...<br />1. Check to make sure the electronic conversion kit was the right application, for example, if it's Pertronix you can check on-line if the kit matches the engine.<br />2. Unless the engine is OMC, there's almost nothing that you can make a mistake on because the conversion and wiring is so simple...except for:<br /> - a cut out may be required in the distributor cap for the thicker gauge wire, if not done correctly the distributor could be grounding out if the wire insulation has worn at the point it passes through the distributor<br /> - the timing may not have been properly set, going to the electronic ignition can dramatically change the timing, mine changed 12 degrees. If not re-timed, engine will not run right<br /> - also check the installation of the e-ignition, the magnet that slides over the shaft can be extremely difficult to push on hard enough to bottom out AND it must spin without coming in contact with any other parts within the distributor, but be close enough for conductivity, the manufacturer supplies a gauge for this (its just like setting points).<br /><br />If the magnet is not securely seated, the rotor rides too high and causes problems on the underside of the cap. All can be resolved without too much effort. In any case, this should not be so problematic that you would abandon as a project boat.
