Re: 110v to 240v
VA stands for Volt-Ampere; KVA stands for Kilo Volt-Ampere. These are the standard units for rating transformers. Transformers are not rated in watts because a watt (a unit of power) is dependent on the power factor of the load. Power factor is dependent on whether a load is inductive or capacitive, and to what extent. VA is independent of the power factor. When you buy a transformer you will have to specify the size you want in terms of VA or KVA.<br /><br />To determine the VA (or KVA) rating of the transformer that you will need to step down the Aussie 240 volts to the 120 volts you want, simply add up all the ampere ratings for the appliances you intend to run, then multiply by 120 (the voltage); divide by 1000 if you want to use KVA. For example, if your A/C draws 20 amps, and your fridge draws 10 amps you would need a (10+20)x120=3600 VA or 3.6 KVA transformer. And specify that the transformer you buy is to be used on a 50 Hz system.<br /><br />Regarding the use of appliances designed for 60 Hz frequency on 50 Hz frequency, you should be aware that all synchronous motors will run slower. Worse though is that appliances designed to run on 60 Hz will present less impedance to 50 Hz, hence more amperage will flow, resulting in more heat being generated. This will shorten the life of the device's insulation and you will have premature failure or in the worst case, possibly a fire. Motors that are capacitive start may not start, or will do so at reduced torque thus generating more heat once again. A compressor motor may run slower, with less torque, generating more heat, resulting in a shortened lifespan along with less cooling ability during that shorter lifespan. Other devices besides motors will also be affected, e.g. if the frequency of microwaves generated for cooking in an oven are related to the input frequency, then you will have less heating and longer cooking times. You should check to see if the nameplate on your appliances shows a 50/60 Hz rating (you can also find the amps rating on that nameplate).<br /><br />One worry free mode of operation would be to only run stuff rated for 50/60 Hz off of shore power. Run the stuff rated for 60 Hz only off of your genset. Hope this helps. Good luck.
The view isnt really that bleak. Its not that big a deal. You should not need to rewire your boat if you decide to upgrade to 240v appliances. Before doing anything, evaluate your ac system. Switches/relays, circuit brakers, and filaments/elements might need to be replaced; motors and inverters probably do need to be replaced. The difference between 120v and 240v in appliances is often minor.<br /><br />- Wall sockets need to be changed to whatever configuration is common for you.<br />- Circuit brakes may or may not need to be replaced.<br />- Any AC light bulbs? (I dont have any on my boat).<br />- Appliances will need upgrading or replacing. Probably as simple as replacing motors or internal switches/relays. Check with the appliance manf. BEFORE replacing.<br />- The AC/DC inverter should be reviewed for compatibility with 240v. Probably isnt. This one could cost you $$$ to replaced.<br /><br />Step-down converters are not cheap, either. Compared with the cost of replacing the inverter, I would be thinking about the minor additional cost to upgrade the existing appliances to 240v and skipping the inconvenience of any 120v on my boat.<br /><br />You might start by asking Bayliner to email or fax you a copy of the AC wiring diagram. From that you can find everything connected to the AC system. It will not be as extensive like the DC is. Also, Bayliner may be able to give you some guidance on what (if anything) needs to be replaced to bring the boat to 240v standards.<br /><br />Good luck!
