1989 Bayliner OMC 3.0l..replace or???

[Lou C]

Re: 1989 Bayliner OMC 3.0l..replace or???

Don't know if the specs for an 88 and 89 are the same, but my 1988 OMC shop manual gives 4 BTDC for 89 octane gas, and 1 BTDC for 86, Point gap is 0.019, dwell 31 to 34 degrees. Idle is 500-600 rpm in gear.<br />If you have an antisiphon valve, make sure it is in good shape, it can restrict gas flow and cause performance problems, I had that a couple of years ago with my 4.3

 

[Don S]

Re: 1989 Bayliner OMC 3.0l..replace or???

I said that at WOT if I use the trim on my throttle the engine bogs out. And btw if I hold it..it will die.

Then you have an electrical problem. Possibly a bad ground on the trim. Loos or corroded connections. Basically it's pulling all the power from the ignition system. It could also be because the battery is getting weak. If the trim is all the way down and you hit the button down some more, it really overloads the trim motor because it can't move anything. That is pulling a lot of amps from the battery, if the battery is weak or any of the battery cables are loose, corroded or whatever, it can cause the same thing.<br />Faulty cables can also cause rough running.<br />Your problem sounds mostly like something in the tuneup of your engine since it ran better before the tuneup. Recheck the dwell, and timing, and makes sure they are on. Lou gave you the proper specs. Check the idle mixture screws on the carb also, too lean or rich will cause rough idle and a hesitation.<br /> <br /><br />

 

[CodyG]

Re: 1989 Bayliner OMC 3.0l..replace or???

I will check all that. The battery and alt. are new, the cables looked good but I was going to replace them as well anyways as I bought a 2 battery selector switch and a 2nd battery. Im not tryint to trim it past full down..its moving it at all that does it. Maybe a cable came loose when we did the tune up, I will check when I replace everything to make sure its ok..I will clean off all the connections and regrease them to make sure their water tight and established, and hopefuly it will be good to go. Otherwise..into the shop she goes and hope they can fix it...ugh. Thanks again.

 

[Bondo]

Re: 1989 Bayliner OMC 3.0l..replace or???

Hi Cody,.....<br /><br />It appears to Me that you've got Alot to Learn about Boating,......<br /> This is a link to the Bayliner Owners Club,.............. <br /><br />Good Luck......... <br /><br />BTW,...... Tell Stratocaster that Bondo sent you..............

 

[Lou C]

Re: 1989 Bayliner OMC 3.0l..replace or???

BTW, the motor stumbling issue when trimming was a known problem on certain OMCs, and there was a service bulletin on some of em to correct it, some kind of wiring change, see if your dealer may just have these old service bulletins, to see what needs to be done. I agree with Don S, on a boat that age, many grounds/connections can be rusted to the point where things don't work well. When I put in my dual batt system, I used all new marine grade cable, cleaned all the connections/terminals, cleaned the engine grounds, and then covered all the connections in marine grease. What a difference, no more starting problems, batteries last longer, everything works better. Always start with the basics, engine compression, vaccuum tests, etc, then work from there. A rusted anti siphon valve caused my engine to not run above 1500 rpm, my mechanic put in the better quality one, no issues after that. Make sure your fuel filters are clean as well.<br />Don't forget you have a 3.0 pushing a 19.5 ft boat, it isn't going to be a rocket no matter what you do, but you can get it to the best it can be. I have the 4.3-4bbl in a 20'9" Four Winns and it is not a rocket either but it gets up and goes quite well. 205 hp with the 4 bbl.

 

[whywhyzed]

Re: 1989 Bayliner OMC 3.0l..replace or???

Just throw this in for reference:<br />My 1987 21.5 foot Bayliner Capri cuddy with the 3.0 Cobra went 34mph on glass with just me in it. So a few more mph should be possible with the tune-up advice above.

 

[CodyG]

Re: 1989 Bayliner OMC 3.0l..replace or???

Cuddy..thats an enclosed style isnt it? Quite a bit heavier? I am at 18' 11" according to my title I looked at today, so I should be doing what..37-40?

 

[Boatist]

Re: 1989 Bayliner OMC 3.0l..replace or???

Just as another reference My 1980 OMC Stringer 3.0L on a 21 foot Crestliner closed bow does 38MPH with a 19 pitch Stainless prop turning 4200. With My 17 pitch stainless prop turning 4600 my top speed is 35MPH. My 1980 140HP at the power head RPM Range is 4200 to 4600 RPMS. The 17 pitch prop is faster to plane but has a lower top end and uses more fuel than the 19.<br /><br />I feel people throwing part at a motor like your doing cause many more problems than they fix. My motor has the orignal wires, coil. I changed the rotor cap and rotor one time and the points, condenser, and plugs twice. Each time the motor was runing perfect but I just felt like it was time to replace. Keep old set in my on board tool box as a back up spare. Motor runs perfect. Once a year I do check everything. I use factory parts not the "better than OEM JUNK" sold.<br /><br />If your motor runs rough then you have a problem that need to be solved. I would start with a compression check and make sure you do not have a rusted out valve or rings. Try and isolate it to a cylinder by pulling wire one cylinder at a time. Make sure the choke is opening up and adjust the Carb. Check the Dwell and spark at each plug. Make sure the motor is running at the right temperature. By this time you should know what your problem is. Then fix it right.<br /><br />Boat triming for best speed, only the back 1/3 of the boat should be in the water at WOT. Triming the outdrive in/bow down will slow the boat way down. Triming out/Bow up will usually get you a lot more speed. With Smart tabs you should be able to trim way out.<br /><br />To swapp your 3.0L to a 4.3 should cost about $10K if you do it right. Much Cheaper to fix your problem or buy a different boat.<br /><br />Good luck

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1989 Bayliner OMC 3.0l..replace or???

cody, i was like you, didn't listen. the CLYMER isn't even good toilet paper. Don can tell you which merc manual to get. not listening to these experts has cost me about $1,000.

 

[paulie0735]

Re: 1989 Bayliner OMC 3.0l..replace or???

Cody, If I may add my bit here and take you back to you initial problem. You say you were not happy with the boats speed at 30 mph and at this time it was running ok. Based on that and the fact that you have mentioned fitting the smart tabs and that you run the trim all the way in! If all that is correct than I suggest you have at least another 5 mph in the boat without changing anything. First get the engine running properly if that means getting it tuned by a pro than do it, you could be throwing cash at it forever and still not get it right doing it your self. While they are at it get the issue with the trim switch sorted out. Get a trim gauge fitted up and than run the boat at the correct trim angle as described by Don in an earlier post. All things sorted your 19' Bayliner should run in the mid to high 30's mph at 4800 rpm WOT and if it’s sorted properly it will!!!!!! The smart tabs will help get the boat up and planning but if they are fitted correctly they should not slow you down. Most boat owners can do a lot of the maintenance stuff and save a lot of money in the process, but there comes a time when you simply need to call in the people who are trained and can get the boat running correctly. It is often cheaper than the “do it your self” trial and error method.

 

[Stratocaster]

Re: 1989 Bayliner OMC 3.0l..replace or???

Bondo's suggestion about 6 posts back, is a good one. Thanks Bondo

 

[4.3sunbird]

Re: 1989 Bayliner OMC 3.0l..replace or???

just to give a somewhat different answer...<br /><br />If you deside to go to a 4.3 you will need alot of things to get it in and running but dont sweat the outdrive .. I have a 3.0 outdrive behind my 4.3 which is making well over stock 4.3 power <br /><br />the only problem I've had is the gear ratio in the outdrive which could easily be fixed with a prop change with a stockish 4.3 <br /><br />I have the steepest pitch I can find for this drive (23") and it just does get my wot rpm in check<br /><br />btw falling back on what others have told you .... trim up the outdrive .. it makes around 10 mph difference in my boat which is caparable to yours<br /><br />and I seen someone above mention a bad ground or power cable ... sounds like the best place to start on fixing your trim from sucking all the power away from your ignition<br /><br />I also have a whale tail on my outdrive which helps alot with the bobing of the boat plus it makes a huge difference on taking off and getting on plane