OMC Shift Adjustment - Stuart's Article

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boatgrunt

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I have a 89 OMC 4.3. In Stuart's article on adjusting an OMC shifting system, he has a "Shift System Adjustment" procedure and a "5 Steps of the Engine Shift Bracket Adjustment" procedure. How do the two relate? Do both have to be done at the same time? One before the other? <br /><br />Also, in the Engine Shift Bracket Adjustment, it says in the "Reverse Gear Engagement" to push down on the shift lever. What is the shift lever? Is he referring to the control arm used to shift into forward, neutral and reverse? Is "down" truly down towards the ground or down as in forward?
 

rodbolt

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Re: OMC Shift Adjustment - Stuart's Article

nope<br /> while I have read some of his articles I also read his disclaimer that he is not a tech and most of the stuff is reprints from the service manual. what are your symptoms and problems?<br />whats it not doing that its should be?
 

boatgrunt

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Re: OMC Shift Adjustment - Stuart's Article

When I shift into reverse, it grinds horribly and if it engages, it clunks and grinds to the point that reverse is no longer really an option. I set the transcom bracket shift cable to the 7 9/16" setting, but the instructions for making the proper adjustment to the pivot housing where the cable and bellcrank work to engage the clutch dog mind as well be in french. I really like to read and try to learn on my own, but I think i'm way over my head on this one.
 

rybad

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Re: OMC Shift Adjustment - Stuart's Article

Heres a suggestion to help see if the problem is a simple adjustment issue, or if you have more serious problems like a spent gear.<br /><br />(if your boat is in the water, use a friend, and make sure the boat is well tied up)<br /><br />Disassemble the linkage from the main shift cable, (as if you were replacing it). You should be able to "shift" the lower unit by now moving the transom shift cable back and forth. With the engine off, you should feel it kinda "snap" into F-N-R when you push/pull the cable. Now, start the engine, and manually move the cable. Be carefull, because obviously, this will engage the prop. Do this in all gears, and make sure she is not grinding. If not, then you have a know you have an alignment problem. If she does still grind, this does not necessarily mean the gear is bad. You could still be badly mis-aligned from the bellhousing up. This is not that difficult to fix, but you will have to pull the outdrive and maybe the bellhouse. You can reach the shift lever on the outdrive without pulling the drive.<br /><br />This should give you a good place to start. I also went through the Stuart post to do mine.. It appears more confusing that it really is to do. I replace the whole cable, and just went by the basic measurements and it was easy.<br /><br />Hope this helps<br /><br />-David
 

boatgrunt

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Re: OMC Shift Adjustment - Stuart's Article

Thanks David - sounds like a great tip. Unfortunately, I have everything torn apart already. Here's what I did:<br /><br />1. Detached all 3 cables from engine<br />2. Pulled outdrive<br />3. Loosened the swivel retainer to the end of the threads and positioned the shift cable guide (B) so that the bellcrank (C) was at 90 degrees. Stuart says you don't need the alignment plate, but I feel kinda shaky about this procedure. <br />photobucket <br /><br />3. Set the space between A and B equal to 7 9/16" per the manual. <br />Photbucket Page <br /><br />4. Screwed on the swivel retainer until it contacted the shift cable guide. <br /><br />5. Pushed the cable (as specified by the manual) all the way forward into the pivot housing. Every time I did this the 7 9/16 setting on the transcom bracket shift cable moved proportional to the distance I pushed in!!! What gives? The manual says that after pushing the cable guide forward, to hold it vertical and tighten the screw. That is it...no more to the procedure per the manual. <br /><br />What am I doing wrong? <br /><br />Thanks in advance
 

pra100

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Re: OMC Shift Adjustment - Stuart's Article

This is a when I did mine answer. I used a sqaure<br />to set my bellcrank at 90 degree angle.Also where your bellcrank attaches ( the bolt that fastens it down) I can't make out it your first picture if that is just greese or greese and scale or something in there.I will make a big differnece in shifting it that is completly cleaned out and new greese put in.The way I did mine was set bellcrank to 90 degrees then attached cable to bellcrank asembly,reinstalled drive,then i set my distance to 7 9/16.Then I adjusted that silver truion to fit in slot.Mine has shifted like butter since.
 

marunr

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Re: OMC Shift Adjustment - Stuart's Article

Originally posted by boatgrunt:<br /> Thanks David - sounds like a great tip. Unfortunately, I have everything torn apart already. Here's what I did:<br /><br />1. Detached all 3 cables from engine<br />2. Pulled outdrive<br />3. Loosened the swivel retainer to the end of the threads and positioned the shift cable guide (B) so that the bellcrank (C) was at 90 degrees. Stuart says you don't need the alignment plate, but I feel kinda shaky about this procedure. <br />photobucket <br /><br />3. Set the space between A and B equal to 7 9/16" per the manual. <br />Photbucket Page <br /><br />4. Screwed on the swivel retainer until it contacted the shift cable guide. <br /><br />5. Pushed the cable (as specified by the manual) all the way forward into the pivot housing. Every time I did this the 7 9/16 setting on the transcom bracket shift cable moved proportional to the distance I pushed in!!! What gives? The manual says that after pushing the cable guide forward, to hold it vertical and tighten the screw. That is it...no more to the procedure per the manual. <br /><br />What am I doing wrong? <br /><br />Thanks in advance
When you push the shift cable guide in to where it is flush with the pivot housing gasket surface, your bellcrank should be sitting at 90 degrees. Then you must set the 7-9/16" adjustment on the engine end of the cable. The shift cable guide should still be flush with the pivot housing gasket surface. Now you carefully thread the retainer on, and snug the screw, and go on from there with the rest of the adjustments. It sounds like you are tightening the retainer while the shift cable guide is pulled out (and, therefore the bellcrank is no longer at 90 degrees)
 

lakelivin

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Re: OMC Shift Adjustment - Stuart's Article

Boatgrunt: sorry no answers to the problem you're seeking help with right now, but a couple of questions that might eventually help with your adjustments.<br /><br />1) In your 2nd photo are you measuring the 7-9/16" length from the center of the pin hole to the top of a retaining screw? In the OMC manual & in Stuarts documents I believe it's shown as being 7-9/16" from the center of the pin hole to the top of the metal jacket crimp. As I recall, they don't even show the retaining screw that comes on newer cables I've seen (this is from memory, I'm out of town & can't check my OMC manual). Not positive which is correct and how much of a difference it might make in the long run, but might be worth looking into. <br /><br />2) In some of the older docs I believe they say to use a straight edge to set the lower edge of the shift cable guide flush with the housing and then set a 7-5/8" length at the engine housing end; in the newer ones where they say use the special OMC tool to set the bell crank they say the length is 7-9/16". With specs so tight in order to get a Cobra shifting perfectly, I wonder why the discrepancy and if it matters. Should it be 7-5/8" using the straight edge/ shift cable guide method (i.e., the lining up the lower edge of the shift cable guide doesn't set the bell crank at exactly 90 degrees, requiring the extra 1/16" in length at the engine compartment end)? Maybe 1/16" doesn't make that much difference, but inquiring minds want to know. <br /><br />Something that might help: when you get the bellcrank set at 90 deg & the shift cable guide flush, set the 7-9/16" length and then 'fix' it by sliding the barrel trunion at the engine compartment into it's socket. Put the hole at the end of the plastic cable cover (sorry about terminology, like I said, I don't have access to manuals) through the pin on the shift lever and clamp the shift lever with a couple of small squeeze hand clamps so it can't easily move. This should fix the 7-9/16" length while you tighten the retainer & screw at the transom bracket end.<br /><br />B.t.w., listen to me at your own risk, with the knowledge that I'm less experienced than the majority of posters here, and that I still haven't got my '89 set quite right after spending hours messing with it at the end of last summer. For various reasons I think my problem might have to do with the shift rod. Got a new shift rod gasket kit, but haven't had time to repull the drive and check it out yet.<br /><br />Keep us informed as to what you did if you get the kinks worked out. There's still a bunch of us trying to get that elusive Cobra shift system adjusted perfectly.
 

lakelivin

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Re: OMC Shift Adjustment - Stuart's Article

Originally posted by Philip A.:<br /> This is a when I did mine answer. I used a sqaure<br />to set my bellcrank at 90 degree angle.Also where your bellcrank attaches ( the bolt that fastens it down) I can't make out it your first picture if that is just greese or greese and scale or something in there.I will make a big differnece in shifting it that is completly cleaned out and new greese put in.The way I did mine was set bellcrank to 90 degrees then attached cable to bellcrank asembly,reinstalled drive,then i set my distance to 7 9/16.Then I adjusted that silver truion to fit in slot.Mine has shifted like butter since.
So basically, you set the 7-9/16" at the engine compartment end by adjusting the threaded 'cable tube' into the crimped brass end of the cable jacket using the locknut instead of adjusting it at the transom end as OMC suggests? Again, sorry about termnology, no manual to reference (at least I haven't said 'thingamajig' or 'doohickey' yet :) ).
 

boatgrunt

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Re: OMC Shift Adjustment - Stuart's Article

Thanks - especially to LakeLiven since I was measuring the 7 9/16 from the nut, not the edge of the crimped brass...this would make enough of a difference per OMC to throw the entire adjustment off. They only allow an error rate of +/- 1/16". Per PhilipA, I will also clean and grease everything. <br /><br />Anyway, for my own benefit, here's the procedure and my problem by the numbers:<br /><br />1. Detached all 3 cables from engine<br />2. Pulled outdrive<br />3. Set the bellcrank(C) to 90 degrees by doing the following: Per my pic, removed screw(E) and loosened the swivel retainer nut(F) to the end of the threads(G). Put a straight edge against the gasket surface(H) and positioned the shift cable guide(B) until (D) was level with the gasket surface. <br />
989cddc8.jpg
<br /><br />4. By pulling on the black casing you see at (B), set the space between A and B equal to 7 9/16" per the manual. For the benefit of others, per LakeLivin, don't include the little brass retainer nut in the measurement. DID NOT REATTACH THE CABLE TO ENGINE. <br />
e260b132.jpg
<br /><br />5. Using straightedge, confirmed 90 degree bellcrank setting again. Per first pic, screwed the swivel retainer nut(F) back in until it contacted the shift cable guide(B) but did not tighten. Attached screw(E) until it contacted the shift cable guide but did not tighten. <br /><br />6. HERE'S WHERE EVERYTHING FALLS APART :D :confused: - Per first pic, pushed the shift cable guide(B) all the way forward into the pivot housing. Because the swivel retainer nut(F) and the screw(E) were attached to the shift cable guide and because the transcome cable at the engine was NOT attached to anything, this action changed the 7 9/16 setting every time by pushing out the cable at the engine end. The change in the cable setting was always the same distance that I pushed the shift cable guide into the pivot housing. This makes sense since the cable is attached to the shift cable guide but is not attached to anything at the engine. <br /><br />Any ideas? I think LakeLiven is suggesting that I attached the transcome cable to the engine/shifting bracket BEFORE connecting the swivel retainer and screw onto the shift cable guide and pushing it into the pivot housing??<br /><br />Thanks in advance
 

marunr

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Re: OMC Shift Adjustment - Stuart's Article

Originally posted by boatgrunt:<br /> <br />5. 6. HERE'S WHERE EVERYTHING FALLS APART :D :confused: - Per first pic, pushed the shift cable guide(B) all the way forward into the pivot housing. Because the swivel retainer nut(F) and the screw(E) were attached to the shift cable guide and because the transcome cable at the engine was NOT attached to anything, this action changed the 7 9/16 setting every time by pushing out the cable at the engine end. The change in the cable setting was always the same distance that I pushed the shift cable guide into the pivot housing. This makes sense since the cable is attached to the shift cable guide but is not attached to anything at the engine. <br /><br />Any ideas? I think LakeLiven is suggesting that I attached the transcome cable to the engine/shifting bracket BEFORE connecting the swivel retainer and screw onto the shift cable guide and pushing it into the pivot housing??<br /><br />Thanks in advance
I don't believe you should be pushing the shift cable guide back in. Doesn't doing that move your bellcrank off of 90 degrees? It must be at 90 degrees when you put the outdrive back on.
 

boatgrunt

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Re: OMC Shift Adjustment - Stuart's Article

Yes - pushing the shift cable guide in moves the bellcrank off the 90 degrees, but the manual says you HAVE to do it to prevent the cable from binding or something. <br /><br />I'll type you verbatum what my manual says when I get home. Thanks marunr for the post.
 

marunr

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Re: OMC Shift Adjustment - Stuart's Article

BG,<br />You may have to somehow clamp the cable end in the engine compartment as Lake Livin suggests, but the bellcrank must be at 90 degrees because when you replace the outdrive, and it is in neutral (as it should be when you remove it), the shift rod will not engage the bellcrank if it's not at 90 degrees.<br /><br />I'll be interested to see what your manual does say...I have never pushed my shift cable guide back in.
 

lakelivin

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Re: OMC Shift Adjustment - Stuart's Article

BG, <br /><br />Yeah, I'd like to see the verbatim instructions again myself. I'm still out of town- unless anyone knows where I live, in which case not only am I at home, I'm probably cleaning my shotgun in case anyone might be contemplating burglarizing my house :) . <br /><br />I'm sensing that an important part of getting the shift adjustment correct on a cobra has to do with the instructions about pushing in or pulling out the cable at various points to remove play in it. I suspect that's what pushing the cable guide in after you've set the cable length but before you do the final tighten on the retainer bolt has to do with. <br /><br />If the 7-9/16" increases the exact amount you push the shift cable guide in, does it go back to 7-9/16" when you return the bell crank to the 90 deg position? If so, I think you should be in good shape because you'll be starting the 5 point adjustment procedure after you return the bell crank back to the 90 deg. position so it lines up with the shift rod (in neutral) when you put the outdrive back on.<br /><br />One of my problems was that I'd get the 7-9/16" measurement right as per instructions, had the shiftrod at the correct height, but found that after I put the drive back on the 7-9/16" had increased by like 3/16". Doesn't look like I have a bent bell crank, so I thought maybe it had something to do with the cable JACKET moving inside the rubber conduit when I put the drive back on, which in turn put the cable length out of specification. <br /><br />Things are coming back to me now. As I think about it some more, that's probably the point I came up with the idea of 'holding' the 7-9/16" length by inserting the barrel trunion in it's slot, attaching the hole at the end of the black plastic on the transom shift cable (what's it called?) to the pin on the shift lever, and clamping the shift lever in place (the shift lever still isn't connected to anything else at this point). This held the length at 9-7/16" at first, but it would still increase at some point during the 5 point adjustment (I put in a new transom shift cable before any ot this, b.t.w.). Cable length was already set, retainer bolt tightened, and I was getting ready to put the drive back on when I tried to "lock in" the 7-9/16" length,. <br /><br />So no, I didn't mean to suggest that you attach the transcome cable to the engine/shifting bracket BEFORE making the cable adjustment, swivel retainer adjustment, doing the swivel retainer bolt tightening procedure, etc., even if that's what I said, :eek: . <br /><br />For various reasons I think my problem might have to do with the shift rod somehow. I'm gonna remove it's cover & take a look now that I've got a new shift rod cover gasket to put it back together again.<br /><br />Couple more thoughts for ya BG (and remember, I really am a novice, only thing I've got going for me is that I've spent way too many hours staring at the manuals and messing with the adjustments, and I still haven't got it competely correct yet).<br /><br />Is there any difference between lining up the lower portion of the shift cable guide flush with the housing and setting the bell crank at 90 deg using a square? Like the 7-5/8" measurement vs. the 7-9/16" measurement I mentioned above? How about accuracy? Seems like there is some variation at the bottom of the shift cable guide depending on where you place your straight edge. Plus, I wonder if the plastic might change over a number of years (don't know what it might wear on, but it is plastic). <br /><br />On the other hand, I have a heck of a time determining when the bell crank is at 90 deg to the casing, even when using a T or L square. It would be so much easier if the bellcrank was symmetric instead of narrower at the front; then I could just line up the top or bottom edge. Instead, I've got to visualize an imaginary line through the center of the bellcrank and line that up with my square. Maybe I have a problem with spatial perspective or something, but I find it very difficult to do.<br /><br />When you clean up stuff (as per PA), I'd suggest you actually pull off the bellcrank, clean it, regrease, and put it back on. <br /><br /><br />Bet there are at least a couple of 'old salts' glancing in on this post and laughing their arses off at some novices trying to stumble their way through a Cobra shift adjustment....
 

boatgrunt

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Re: OMC Shift Adjustment - Stuart's Article

As promised, I've listed verbatum steps 4-9 of the "Transom Bracket Shift Cable Adjustment" per my OMC manual (I paraphrased #4, 8 and 9):<br /><br />4. ...perform the 7 9/16 adjustment at the engine end of the cable.<br /><br />5. Being careful not to disturb cable setting, screw on swivel retainer until it just contacts the shift cable guide, then install screw finger tihgt.<br /><br />6. Remove alighnment plate<br /><br />7. ! To fully engage shift cable guide and prevent binding of shift cable, push cable all the way forward into pivot housing. Hold cable guide vertical with a 9/16 in. wrench, then tighten the screw to 10-12 ft. lbs. (14-16 N-m). Holding guide prevents it from twisting when screw is tightened. <br /><br />Note: Failure to hold guide vertical when tightening screw will cause cable to stick at farthest end of travel, in or out. Cable actuation force must not exceed 5 lbs. when extending or retracting casing guide (engine end) 1/4 in. in either direction from neutral position (2 1/2 in. total travel). <br /><br />8. ...recheck 7 9/16 measurement<br /><br />9. ...coat bellcrank pen with greast <br /><br /><END OF PROCEDURE PER MANUAL><br /><br /><br />As I stated in previous posts, when I complete procedure #7, the 7 9/16 measurement in #8 is always off. I've watched the casing guide at the engine end of the cable move with my own eyes as I push the shift cable guide into the pivot housing....<br /><br />Also interesting is that OMC never tells you to return the bellcrank to 90 degrees before reinstalling the outdrive. In fact, procedure #9 literally ends Chapter 6 Transom Bracket Assembly.
 

marunr

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Re: OMC Shift Adjustment - Stuart's Article

I see what you are saying, but after having done the adjustments, if you recheck the 7 9/16 measurement as per #8(and return it to 7 9/16) your shift cable guide and bellcrank should be dead on. When you go to the re-install outdrive portion of the manual does it say in that section to check bellcrank?<br /><br />Anyway, I believe the purpose is to get the outdrive in to exact neutral when the cable setting is 7 9/16. If the shift rod height is correct, and the bellcrank is at 90 degrees when the cable is at 7 9/16...you are where you should be. From there you do the 5 step bracket adjustments.<br /><br />Good luck!
 

seahorse5

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Re: OMC Shift Adjustment - Stuart's Article

Originally posted by boatgrunt:<br /><br /><br />As I stated in previous posts, when I complete procedure #7, the 7 9/16 measurement in #8 is always off. I've watched the casing guide at the engine end of the cable move with my own eyes as I push the shift cable guide into the pivot housing.... [/QB]
There is alway slop or free play in the cable assembly. When screwing on the retainer, have someone hold the other end of the cable firmly at the 7 9/16" measurement, while you lightly push and pull on the cable to get it in the middle of the slop. That is where you adjust the retainer.
 

boatgrunt

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Re: OMC Shift Adjustment - Stuart's Article

ok - i think i've got it. thanks to everyone!!<br /><br />marunr - we were thinking the same thing...i checked the procedure this morning for reinstalling the outdrive and believe it or not, according to my "rookie" read, OMC only says to keep the shifter in neutral. They never explicitly mention the bellcrank. Sounds like they should have said to check it for 90 degrees.
 

lakelivin

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Re: OMC Shift Adjustment - Stuart's Article

Originally posted by seahorse:<br />
Originally posted by boatgrunt:<br /><br /><br />As I stated in previous posts, when I complete procedure #7, the 7 9/16 measurement in #8 is always off. I've watched the casing guide at the engine end of the cable move with my own eyes as I push the shift cable guide into the pivot housing....
There is alway slop or free play in the cable assembly. When screwing on the retainer, have someone hold the other end of the cable firmly at the 7 9/16" measurement, while you lightly push and pull on the cable to get it in the middle of the slop. That is where you adjust the retainer. [/QB]
Now it's really coming back. I didn't have anyone else handy to hold the cable exactly at 7-9/16" while I threaded on the retainer; THATS where I used the method I described at first (trunion in slot to hold one end of the cable, shift lever pin through hole at end of black plastic cable case, and shift lever clamped to mounting bracket with several spring hand clamps to hold the other end). First tried to clamp cable at engine end to something rigid after setting the 7-9/16" measurement (like a piece of 1"x2" wood), but the clamps kept sliding off the round cable rod. Putting it in the trunion slot, through the shift lever pin, and clamping the shift lever to the bracket did a good job of keeping the length fixed (although I did need several clamps of different size & shape to get a good bite on the shift lever & bracket).<br /><br />seahorse, you've been around; any idea why OMC went from the 7 5/8" spec to 7 9/16"? Just more precise in the latter specification, or anything else at play there?
 
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