Bad Shake Down

Big Larry · Mar 31, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

Thanks Greg, I am pulling those lines and flushing everything this weekend. Allot of the Impeller has been accounted for but we are making sure that all pasages are as clear as can be for the age of the motor. Big Larry,

Big Larry · Apr 3, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

Greg, Don and everyone else, Its done. Don, always check the Impeller, even if they say its new... Greg, I thought I had accounted for the melted Impeller Fragments but I was wrong. There was a ton of it blocking the screen of the oil cooler. I was so confident this was all of it that I even used brand new "Volvo" O-rings and seals at $3.00 & $5.00 each but its all together perfect. I also ran a clear hose on the "Raw" in connection from the transom plate and the strainer inlet so that I could see the flow and its strong as possible. I have only run it out of the water so far but allowing a ten minute warm up and the 10 minutes at 4500 (in Gear) only gave me a 150 degree temp. I would have to say that all is ready for a shake down Thanks to all of your help out there. I did forget to use the gel in the new Impeller, if that is going to cause a long term problem please let me know and I'll remove my perfectly sealed cleaned and painted cover. I have a couple of questions that hopefully you wouldn't mind taking a moment to review. My shift cable is hard to use when running. Easy to accelerate but hard to neutral back to with out using a lil' back & forth elbow grease. To replace it, are they fairly universal and just pick a size or is this old unit going to be more difficult. The second thing is could all boats use trim tabs. It just seemed that for the two minutes I was able to run it in the water, the bow ran high and list a lil' to the left. I look so forward to your reply. This was allot of work because along the way you see things that need attention and I really spared no rest on it. Everything runs so perfect. Carbs are synced, timing is perfect, it truely runs smoother than my new Expedition. Even in my Hot Rod day's, I don't think that I have had a Carbed engine run this good. Thanks, Big Larry

Bsturkie · Apr 3, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

Big Larry, I had much of the same issue that you just solved. This impeller in my (Volvo AQ125B) was destroyed allowing rubber fragments to clog the heat exchanger. I recommend removing the top of the heat exchanger and spraying and or digging out any rubber debris as well as gunk.I got mine back togather without purchacing any gaskets even though I may do that in the future. Also, if you have a 270 out drive (not sure about other models), you may have a drain plug on the very bottom of the foot. The previous owner of my boat lost the plug. (Didnt tell me) This effects the suction when the muffs are on. The water pressure just squirts out of the plug hole and little water if any can be "sucked" causing impeller damage. When I run my boat on trailer, I duck tape the plug hole and all is well. If the foot is in the water, this ofcourse dosent need to be done for positive suction can be achived. Let me know if you have any other questions, Thanks to this forum, my motor is purring quite nicely although it has not even seen water yet. (New floor being installed). I also have the Clymer and Seloc manuals for our motors so let me know, I can "relay" some info to ya!

QC · Apr 3, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

Big Larry, I personally recommend trim tabs for all v-hulls. The flexibility and comfort they provide cannot be beat. My .02

Big Larry · Apr 4, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

AHHhh! I did not know about the plug on the bottom until after the fact. Before my first Shake Down, I ran it quite allot out of the water using the muff's without a plug. While purchasing parts I learned that the plug needed to be in while using the clamp. I am sure that is what caused the Impeller damage. We are so lucky that I didn't pop the motor or at least the Head Gasket because I ran it until it was too hot to turn over, Tough Old Engine We'll be taking it out as soon as the rain stops here on the Central California Coast. Thanks, Big Larry

Big Larry · Apr 4, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

AHHhh! I did not know about the plug on the bottom until after the fact. Before my first Shake Down, I ran it quite allot out of the water using the muff's without a plug. While purchasing parts I learned that the plug needed to be in while using the clamp. I am sure that is what caused the Impeller damage. We are so lucky that I didn't pop the motor or at least the Head Gasket because I ran it until it was too hot to turn over,

Tough Old Engine We'll be taking it out as soon as the rain stops here on the Central California Coast. Thanks, Big Larry

QC · Apr 4, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

Uhhh Lar, Are you talking about the drain plug in the transom at the bottom of the "V"? If so, this does not have to be in to run on muffs . . . In fact it does not have to be in to run in the water, but sinking kinda sucks

Big Larry · Apr 4, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

No No No, not the Bung Hole, this is a vent hole at the bottom of the lower unit that assist the capulary process of feeding the "Raw" impeller. You have to plug, tape, cork, block when using the clamp otherwise much of your garden hose water will flow down and out and not up and into the strainer. Because of this Old & Poor design, I keep a section of clear tubing installed connecting my Raw water inlet to the engine so that I can go and peak at the flow when ever I need some assurance.

QC · Apr 4, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

Ahhh. Just checkin'

superpop · Apr 5, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

Change your shift cable if it is hard to move at all. I usually start off by disconecting the cable at the stern side to ensure that it is not the carb or outdrive that is sticking and then test the cable and controller. It sounds like a cable though. Believe me, you do not want to be on the water when a cable fails. This is the one failure on a boat that actually gives you some advanced warning that it needs to be fixed or you will be very frustrated out in the water. The hardest part is getting access to the cable, the swap is easy. Simply remove the old cable and measure it and then go online and order another one. Save any parts off the old cable and when you get the new one just install it following the same route. The other thing to check with both the old cable and new cable is the pinch radius of the cable, even a new cable will be sticky if you have it bending too far to fast.

Big Larry · Apr 5, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

Thank you, I used to manage the Aamco Transmission in Bellevue I think it was on Bel-Red road. Thanks, Big Larry

Big Larry · Apr 6, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

Its PERFECT... Everything on the water went Great!!! Temp stayed at 150 and below. Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You Thank You. I have just a couple questions please... I am still popping up in reverse and all linkage is very clean & sharp with white grease, nothing worn. Is there away to set adjustment stronger? After coming out of the water in the tie down lane, I have allot of dripping from the what looks like bellows. I realize most of the drips of course and my bellows appear to be in soft good condition but allot of trickling. I wish that I popped a hose clamp off to see if water poured out but didn't think about it. How else can I check theses for leaking and!!! if they are, what definent damage has been done? Thanks you, I look so forward to your reply. Big Larry

Big Larry · Apr 14, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

Well, now that everything is GREAT! and we spend every weekend on the lake, I have a couple of questions if I may. By the way, if Don and all of you were not there, this boat would just be covered up in the drive way as another project. First question is my RPM's: My Tac goes to 6,000 rpm. On the water, we like the speed of 5500-6,000 rpm thus feels like about 35 mph. The tac is accurate (checked with hand tac) and even though we are rev'n pretty fair, I just don't feel that we are tacking out the motor. Should I back down on this old inline 6 or is that cool.? I get out of the hole so great that I would hate to change the prop and again, we like the speed at 5500-6000. Second Q is regarding boat ski safety: When your ski/tuber fall and you retrieve them, do you kill the motor or just turn away the prop and goto neutral? what is the correct proceedure. We look forward to the replies. Thank You and happy boating. Big Larry

fendersfender · Apr 14, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

5500-6000??????? way too high engine rpm's..that motor wont last long at those rpm's...sounds like your under-proped....i'm not exactly sure where your rpm's should be at WOT, but somewhere around 4200-4400 should be close...try a larger prop.........and ALWAYS kill the engine when retrieving a skiier, tuber...its the SAFE way

Don S · Apr 14, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

You are WAY under propped. Your maximum WOT for your engine should be 5000 rpm. You need to adjust that rpm by prop pitch so that you can not go over 5000 rpm. Once you do, you will still get your 35 mph, buy you won't be running it so hard. Get an accurate WOT rpm then change sizes compared to what you have. You may have to increase pitch and diameter to get the rpm down.

Big Larry · Apr 14, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

That's too bad because shooting out of the hole like this is very cool. I will go prop shopping today. By the way, what does WOT mean? Thank's, Big Larry

ajkolar · Apr 14, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

Wide Open Throttle

RubberFrog · Apr 14, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

Just to reiterate, kill the motor, not the skier.

Big Larry · Apr 14, 2006

Re: Bad Shake Down

I'm a thinking that I better check this tac against a meter again. I don't remember seting the handheld to 6 cyl. and it has been years since I checked that against a 6 cyl. I am almost positive that it would have been set at 8 cyl. It just feels like 3500-45400max when tac is peaking at six. I had no idea how much a prop could cost. The hundred dollar ones really look like crap so I want to be very sure. It does seem that I can get a pretty fair one for about $175.00 However' while prop shopping today I was able to purchase a brand new Bimini (a take off)with all hardware for $150.00 We are extremely excited about that so much so that I am even going to install today in the rain. Thanks, Big Larry

Bad Shake Down

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