No Oil Alarm 2000 Johnson 175 Ocean Pro

[cfauvel]

from one of many year 2000 175HP

 

[boobie]

I stand corrected on the in/Hg the switches were set at. The bad ones were set at 4 in/Hg and we had to reset them to 7 in/Hg. Sorry about the error.

 

[chevysam41]

This may be a dumb question but does the engine need to be running for this test?

I found the vacuum switch, hooked up the brake bleeder, turned the ignition to on (engine not running), pulled 8inHg, no noise. I assume I'm doing something wrong.

 

[boobie]

Check your buzzer to make sure that's working. Like grounding out a temp switch.

 

[cfauvel]

This may be a dumb question but does the engine need to be running for this test?

I found the vacuum switch, hooked up the brake bleeder, turned the ignition to on (engine not running), pulled 8inHg, no noise. I assume I'm doing something wrong.

nope you did it right...I assume you hooked the vacuum pump to the switch right?

next test would be to short the pins of the vacuum switch(part #29) whilst the key switch is in the ON position. horn should sound.

You can also remove the switch , hook up a multimeter in continuity mode to the switch's leads and draw 8 inhg(on the switch)...that should close the circuit.

It definitely should have sounded by 8 inhg

 

[chevysam41]

nope you did it right...I assume you hooked the vacuum pump to the switch right?

I did. The hose (#93 in the diagram) that runs from the vacuum switch connects to part #72. I disconnected 72 meets 93 and tested it there.

I will try the other suggestions tomorrow evening after work. FYI, when I turn the key to the on position the self test buzzer sounds.


Thanks so much again everyone for your feedback!

 

[cfauvel]

No I think you want hose #19....that goes to the switch...not sure where #93 is going, but looks too big of a hose...place the vacuum pump directly at the switch #26 with the switch electrical wires connected...

 

[chevysam41]

Based on what I was looking at yesterday #19 and #93 look like the same hose, though I agree, 93 looks bigger in the diagram. I took a picture of where I had the brake bleeder hooked up in case this came up later. I'll post that when I get in front of a computer this morning.

 

[chevysam41]

No Title

I mis-spoke. It was #19 that I hooked up to. In the attached picture you can see where I hooked the brake bleeder up to. The only reason (assuming my procedure was correct) I can figure that the alarm did not go off was maybe the line was too long (6-8" from the switch) and vacuum at the switch was lower than 8inHg. Either that or the switch is bad.

One other thing, I attached a photo of the hose connection (#76 on the diagram) and the associated o-ring (#68). That o-ring has a nick in it that you can see in the picture. In the picture it looks cut through, but it isn't quite all the way through in reality. Is it possible that air is getting in around that o-ring, causing there to be excess vacuum than there would otherwise be throughout the powerband? Still doesn't explain why the switch didn't alarm though...

 

[cfauvel]

I think your switch is bad. And with bad o-ring there, the fuel area under part #72 might get aerated ,,and that can't be good.

Do the other tests described first.

multimeter /continuity at the switch, should have contnuity after 7 inhq, definitely at 10 inhg
ground the two wires at the connector with ignition switch to ON, should sound horn.

What I find interesting on this motor is they (OMC) decided to put the fuel obstruction switch AFTER the VRO pump.


I am going to have to defer to the guys that know this motor and fuel delivery better than I.


Assuming the vacuum switch is bad....then a never ending horn, in your case, would HAVE to be overheat condition.

You'll need to test the temp sensors to make sure they close the circuit at the proper temp and not early (though I don't think they would close early).
If they check out, then it is time to check thermostats and water pump.

going back to a previous quote

Going to step back for a second and ask probably a dumb question, but wanted to confirm. The alarm is a solid tone (we believe), but on the gauge, the words "no oil" are illuminated when the audible alarm is going off. Does it still make sense that this is a fuel issue?

no it doesn't ...the tan wires to the system check device is specific to the area they are monitoriing.

NO-OIL - the horn would beep (beeeep beeeeeep beeeeep ) that increases in speed with RPM
Low - oil - the horn is like Beeeep Pause beeep Pause
fuel restriction- the horn is like beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee p and goes away when you pull back the throttle
and overheat - the horn is like beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee eep and never goes away with the engine on or engine off with they key in the ON position until the thermo-switches cool down.

So let's assume that it is a No-oil condition you are getting, but horn isn't acting right.

remove the oil-reservoir from the boat....pour out the oil into a container using some cheesecloth to filter out whatever nastiness may be at the bottom..
remove the oil pickup, inspect the filter sock...remove filter sock and clean it...
clean out the tank, if there is anything nasty at the bottom.
test the low-oil circuit while pickup is out. (turn ignition key to ON, let float on pick up drop, horn should sound. If it doesn't you have to diagnose why.
purge the oil line into a container.

nastiness may include water, sludge or a jelly like substance.

 

[chevysam41]

Man I tell ya, this is the kind of thing that makes me want to go premix and forget it. Problem is my fuel gauge isn't working so I try to keep it topped off, but I never know how much gas I'm about to put in, so I never know how much oil to put in up front, and when the tank is full its too late. Other issue is I plan to pull the tank this fall and I can transfer straight gas to my truck, but will have to throw out premix. Tough pill to swallow with an 84 gallon tank. But I guess if it turns out to be an overheat issue then premixing won't help that..

I think your switch is bad. And with bad o-ring there, the fuel area under part #72 might get aerated ,,and that can't be good.

Do the other tests described first.

multimeter /continuity at the switch, should have contnuity after 7 inhq, definitely at 10 inhg
ground the two wires at the connector with ignition switch to ON, should sound horn.

I will try this tonight and will pick up another o-ring from home depot to replace the old one.

NO-OIL - the horn would beep (beeeep beeeeeep beeeeep ) that increases in speed with RPM
Low - oil - the horn is like Beeeep Pause beeep Pause
fuel restriction- the horn is like beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee p and goes away when you pull back the throttle
and overheat - the horn is like beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee eep and never goes away with the engine on or engine off with they key in the ON position until the thermo-switches cool down.

It still seems strange to me that it could be a fuel or overheat condition if the "No Oil" sign is illuminated on the gauge, but you all know these systems better than I. I almost wish I had kept it running to see if it was a repetitive long beep or a constant beep. The only thing I can recall is that when the light came on/alarm sounded, I dethrottled and within 3-5 seconds (before turning off the motor) the alarm went off but the sign stayed illuminated.

 

[Chris1956]

It is not hard to premix fuel for a large tank. If she is less than 1/2 full, dump in a quart of oil and add 12 gal gas. Repeat until you think she is 3/4 full. Now add a pint of oil and then 6 g gas. when she is almost full, add 1.2 pint oil and 3 G gas. if you screw up and add 1/2 pint too much oil, it is not significant across 84 gallons of fuel.

 

[cfauvel]

It still seems strange to me that it could be a fuel or overheat condition if the "No Oil" sign is illuminated on the gauge, but you all know these systems better than I. I almost wish I had kept it running to see if it was a repetitive long beep or a constant beep. The only thing I can recall is that when the light came on/alarm sounded, I dethrottled and within 3-5 seconds (before turning off the motor) the alarm went off but the sign stayed illuminated.

i agree....that's why I pointed out the oil reservoir actions...the system check would definitely light up on the correct issue....BUT the system check gizmoe COULD be faulty in that it is NOT sending the right signal to the horn.. I believe I read that the system check gauge is what tells the horn HOW to sound, where as on my motor (doesn't have system check) the horn itself decides how to sound.

there is a pretty big difference in horn prices from your motor to mine....mine is more expensive.

If you need a replacement system check gauge...let me know my marine surplus store near me has TONS of them.

I wonder if there is a way to test the system gauge to remotely activate the various issues and produce the correct horn sound without the engine being on..

 

[cfauvel]

this might be a good read...
http://www.continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/015190.html

 

[w2much]

Great info here from the pros. I had the same issue a few years back. Did all the test and they all checked out good. But still the solid overheat alarm would go off similar to what you are experiencing. I finally replaced the pump, yes it was costly. I did it myself. Yes I threw money at it never really diagnosing or pinning down the exact cause of the issue. I have not had any issues since with the alarms. I had already spent 350.00 on having it worked on at the local Evinrude dealer but the problem remained. The technician said it was my system check tachometer sending the wrong signal. Figured the engine was 15 years old at the time it would not be a bad thing to just replace the pump. I am glad I did. It seems to me that somewhere in the electronics of the pump something was not right. To this day I still know not what caused the alarm to go off but the new pump did solve the problem. For what its is worth.
Try a portable tank with a new bulb, known to be functioning properly, see if the issue is resolved. Use premix fuel until you get this figured out so that if you are not pumping oil you will not ruin your engine.

 

[jakedaawg]

^^^^ my thinking also. I missed the no oil light earlier. Steps to take would be to run on portable premix tank with pump and tank wiring unhooked. Does alarm still sound? If yes use temp stick and whatever else you need to trouble shoot overheat or temp sensor malfunction. Water out the tell tale tells little, this exits before block. Also would need to trouble shoot fuel pressure and fuel vacuum as the same horn would sound but check engine light I believe illuminates.

If no then trouble shoot oil tank and vro. Keep updating thread as folks will remember other stuff. We are not there and some times hard to think on
Keyboard.

 

[cfauvel]

Great info here from the pros. I had the same issue a few years back. Did all the test and they all checked out good. But still the solid overheat alarm would go off similar to what you are experiencing. I finally replaced the pump, yes it was costly. I did it myself. Yes I threw money at it never really diagnosing or pinning down the exact cause of the issue. I have not had any issues since with the alarms. I had already spent 350.00 on having it worked on at the local Evinrude dealer but the problem remained. The technician said it was my system check tachometer sending the wrong signal. Figured the engine was 15 years old at the time it would not be a bad thing to just replace the pump. I am glad I did. It seems to me that somewhere in the electronics of the pump something was not right. To this day I still know not what caused the alarm to go off but the new pump did solve the problem. For what its is worth.
Try a portable tank with a new bulb, known to be functioning properly, see if the issue is resolved. Use premix fuel until you get this figured out so that if you are not pumping oil you will not ruin your engine.

interesting

maybe a couple of things at the same time.....
1- the reset pin of the electronic side wasn't resetting the pulse counts and throwing no-oil horn, but system check gauge incorrectly sounded the overheat horn
2 - the contacts under the rest pin weren't making a contact thus wasn't resetting the pulse counts and throwing no-oil horn, but system check gauge incorrectly sounded the overheat horn
3 - an actual no oil condition and throwing no-oil horn, but system check gauge incorrectly sounded the overheat horn

do you still have the old unit?

 

[chevysam41]

I know several have posted in the last few hours but they are not showing up on my phone for some reason. I'll get on the computer when I'm back in the house.

Anywho, I'm on the boat right now doing the vacuum test again. On the switch I don't get continuity until 10inHg (5.5" hose coming off the switch). More worrisome fact is that the horn never sounds...

 

[chevysam41]

So let's assume that it is a No-oil condition you are getting, but horn isn't acting right.

remove the oil-reservoir from the boat....pour out the oil into a container using some cheesecloth to filter out whatever nastiness may be at the bottom..
remove the oil pickup, inspect the filter sock...remove filter sock and clean it...
clean out the tank, if there is anything nasty at the bottom.
test the low-oil circuit while pickup is out. (turn ignition key to ON, let float on pick up drop, horn should sound. If it doesn't you have to diagnose why.
purge the oil line into a container.

nastiness may include water, sludge or a jelly like substance.

Did this also- oil reservoir and filter looked to be in good shape. No horn though, only "low oil illuminating on the tach...

 

[jakedaawg]

Yep, time to test VRO...detailed in manual. Whatever you do, the oil side is not something you open up. Non serviceable!

Also need to eliminate a bad system check gauge. You do this by eliminating all other possible problems.