Deck to hull joint..

[mellowyellow]

Re: Deck to hull joint..

crab, that is an iteresting mix u got there and<br />I am gonna have to try it some day <br />how about a pick of yur creation? me too someday.<br />back to theory... seems like they could lay down<br />sorta material under the foam for drainage that<br />would let air/water flow freely in the hull while<br />keeping the foam from becoming saturated...yet if<br />the foam isn't bonded to the hull, it loses some<br />structural strength perhaps?<br />geeze... and it's only Dec. 5th and I'm already<br />spacing out. LOL<br />CC, with a good epoxy job, it is gonna outlast<br />us both regardless.<br />safe boating,<br />M.Y.

 

[crab bait]

Re: Deck to hull joint..

thanks,MELLO.. that mix is mine.. the instructions just said putty... i came up with the mix..<br /><br />silica, is a good base for putty.. gives the fluff & puff .. microballoons adds sandablity... the milled fiberglass gives the putty GODAWLSOME strenght..<br /><br />but the main reason for the silica is ,,silica keeps the putty from saggin'... altho it still will when it 'kicks-off',, but not much,tho..<br /><br />i wish i could post some pics but i only have WEBTV.. i sent some pics before to the auzzy mate FRANKI ESL ##??# ..he posted them... but they didn't last long on site...<br /><br />it's a pretty lil' 16 foot center console ,, remember..??

 

[Outrage 19]

Re: Deck to hull joint..

Sorry Boomyal I follow this forum at work and we had the company Christmas party last Friday. What was your question?

 

[CCrew]

Re: Deck to hull joint..

Crab Bait, have to give it to ya..<br /><br />Tried the tape idea, no joy. Tape stuck to the bottom of the deck just rolls off when you try to capture it in the joint. So, used your way, with the only addition being a 2" wide layer of mat right under the joint, with the putty on top.. then smooshed it all into the joint. Rest of the cloth layers like you. Worked like a champ. Thanks!<br /><br />Roger

 

[Boomyal]

Re: Deck to hull joint..

Question, Outrage, was regarding the "new decking material" that you spoke of. What is it?

 

[Outrage 19]

Re: Deck to hull joint..

It’s a composite material that’s not susceptible to sun damage or moister. It is suppose to work like wood, you can cut it with a saw, glue it, paint it, drill and run screws in it. I was at Lowe’s the other day and saw some, it looks like fine wood shavings glued together with paraffin wax. If this stuff is all they say it is you wouldn’t have to worry about encapsulating stringers in resin or glass just find a way to secure it to the hull.

 

[JasonJ]

Re: Deck to hull joint..

I've worked with TREX, that decking material. It had some flex to it, more flexible than what I would want in a boat structure. It is basically recycled plastic in some sort of resin. I have no idea if poly could hold it, epoxy would probably hold it, but can't say for sure.

 

[CCrew]

Re: Deck to hull joint..

Trex specifically states that you can't use it for anything structural. It's not "all that and a box of cracker jack". <br /><br />From Trex: " While Trex lumber is tough and durable, it does not have the same stiffness as wood. Therefore, it is not intended for use as a load bearing post, joist or any other primary load-bearing member"<br /><br />On material: <br />"Is Trex decking made of recycled materials?<br />Trex decking is made from post-consumer and/or post-industrial reclaimed plastic and waste wood. The reclaimed plastic comes primarily from grocery sacks and stretch film, and the waste wood is from woodworking manufacturers."<br /><br />Plant's here in Winchester. It's basically just sawdust mixed with recycled plastic in a 50/50 mix. <br /><br />Just my .02..<br />Roger

 

[mellowyellow]

Re: Deck to hull joint..

will never go wrong listening to the crab IMHO!<br />I have cut/pasted formula for future ref. u'all<br />should too.

 

[Outrage 19]

Re: Deck to hull joint..

Thanks for the reply Jason, I’ve been out of carpentry for almost 10 years now and a lot of new stuff has come out that I have not had the chance to work with. I don’t want to beat a dead horse but what if you made a flitch beam out of it using a sheet of 1/8” aluminum sandwiched between two peaces of TREX?<br /><br />CCrew from what you describe this sounds like another version of what we use to call was wood, at one time it was wood now it’s mostly glue, or in this case glue and plastic. But this explains why I only saw 1 X 6 decking, spindles, and rail cap at Lowe’s<br /><br />Mellow I agree with you I’ve read a lot of the Crab’s posts and as well as G Dane, JB, and yourself IMO if I was still doing carpentry I would be proud to work with any of you.<br /><br />Any way I’m still thinking about a 19’ Galaxy that a friend wants to give me that needs a floor for starters. If I get it I might try the flitch beam approach and be the guinea pig for my idea. If I do I’ll be sure to start a thread so everyone can learn from my experience.

 

[Realgun]

Re: Deck to hull joint..

Ccrew looks like the floor is held up by the foam then was glassed in. Seems this was the way the factory did it. I think I will scarf the floor to match the hull but set it on 4 lb foam. // like that hull to floor.

 

[CCrew]

Re: Deck to hull joint..

Realgun, <br />On mine it was obvious that the floor was drilled with 1 1/2" holes spaced about 18" apart up the sides and the foam was poured in through the floor. Not a bad idea and I'm actually using it in some places but not all. Where I drilled the holes I've used a forstner bit to get a clean hole, and I've cut hardwood closet rod in 3/4" slices to pound in w/resin honey after foaming. Biggest problem that I see with it is that you can't be 100% certain the entire void is filled. Where I'm not drilling holes, I'm glassing the deck edges in in 4' sections, and going in from underneath and foaming in, so I can visually see what's happening.<br /><br />If you pour the foam first, then smooth it to under the deck, you risk the possibility that you don't have the foam all the way to the deck underside after you lay the deck and you end up with the chance of a small void directly under the deck. That defeats the purpose of the foam being a structural support, and puts a void for condensation directly at the ply. Seems to be a Catch-22 no matter which way you go. <br /><br />As far as scarfing the deck with the //, I've found it's hard as heck. The angle changes constantly along the edge. I have found what works well is a radius at the edge, pretty much a )/ That gives you a bit more bearing surface at the edge, and the top radius allows the fillet to go over the ply edge, and makes the glass transition smoother as you're not catching that sharp lip. I'm also putting down 3/4" ply versus the original 1/2" so I have a bit more filet to do to make the transition as the deck's 1/4" higher. Seems to be working well though so I'm sticking with it.<br /><br />As I lay the deck I'm putting down a 2" strip of wetted mat under the edge and filling the filet with Crab Bait's mixture of epoxy/cabosil/milled fiber. Then i'm laying a 4" wide layer of mat at the edge seam followed by 6" biaxial tape, then covered with another layer of mat 8" wide. After the deck is completely down (I'm about 1/2 done) and before I put the front bow seating and seat boxes in I'm going to do the entire flat deck in one layer of 17oz biaxial and top it with a finish layer of 1 1/2oz mat. I'll glass all the way to the bottom/gunwale transition.. I flat defy water to penetrate the deck after that. I'm then going to cover all that pretty work with carpet! It's a bit overkill, but I'm never doing it again if I can help it. <br /><br />Regards,<br />Roger

 

[70seacraft]

Re: Deck to hull joint..

CCrew and others - before you layed the deck down did you glass the underside or just seal with resin?

 

[CCrew]

Re: Deck to hull joint..

70Seacraft,<br />With mine, I soaked it with CPES (www.rotdoctor.com) and then coated the underside with three separate coats of epoxy resin, sanding between coats. No glass mat or cloth My wife jokes that I'm making "furniture" as it literally looks like a tabletop, in that there's wood, but it's under a very thick coat of resin.. I have to admit, all the wood's that way that I'm putting in, almost a shame to glass over it sometimes it's so pretty. I'm using A/B Marine ply, I've found that the "B" side seems to absorb better, where the "A" side which in my case is up it seems to lay on the surface more. I'm also pre-drilling and countersinking the screws for the deck to stringer fastening.. so those holes are resin coated, then the heads are puttied over with epoxy putty. They're actually embedded in the glasswork in the final product, so pity the poor soul that ever has to take this apart <br /><br />-Roger

 

[Boomyal]

Re: Deck to hull joint..

I sure hope there are a lot of Digital cameras under all the trees this year.

 

[1965MT]

Re: Deck to hull joint..

Boomyall, I am going to post some pics but there are two problems: 1.) it's cold 2.) see item 1<br /><br />Actually, I haven't worked on the boat because I am building the wife some night stands. I think everyone else has jumped ahead. I have the stringers and transom "tacked" in place. All the wood pieces are cut and trial fitted. The next step is epoxy/fiberglass. I will take the pictures after that. I am attempting to compile a series of before-during-after pictures.

 

[Boomyal]

Re: Deck to hull joint..

OK,1965MT, I'll chill out.

 

[lcrayne]

Re: Deck to hull joint..

What's wrong with epoxy and screwing a new floor to the six inch lip from the old floor. Will be sitting 3/4" inch higher, but so what.

 

[mellowyellow]

Re: Deck to hull joint..

the floor needs to sit directly on the stringers<br />for structural integrety of the hull.

 

[lcrayne]

Re: Deck to hull joint..

Forgot to mention that I plan to epoxy and screw 3/4" spacers between the stringers and new floor.