screw issues

tengals123

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 26, 2005
Messages
860
guys, when fixing all my new chromed hardware to my fiberglass boat, what the best way of doing this. Do i need to bolt and nut everthing, or use tapping screws. Also for bolts and screws what type should i use ( non rust )<br /><br />cheers
 

Boomyal

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 16, 2003
Messages
12,072
Re: screw issues

I would either bolt and nut or use an epoxy treated hardwood backing on the fixtures. If the fitting was going to take a real load, like a deck cleat, I would use as big a backing board, well contoured to the under surface, as you could fit. I would use stainless screws/bolts and I would counter sink the holes to avoid cracking out your gel coat. Hope this helps.<br /><br /><br />I always use some 1/2" scrap oak toungue and groove flooring, treated with a pentrating epoxy. It will never shrink or rot and allow the nuts to loosen up.<br /><br />EDIT: just looked at your pictures. If you are installing something small and light, like a light fixture, I would just use S/S screws through the fiber glass. But do be sure to chamfer the hole thru the glass as mentioned above.
 

Dunaruna

Admiral
Joined
May 2, 2003
Messages
6,027
Re: screw issues

Originally posted by Boomyal:<br /> I would either bolt and nut or use an epoxy treated hardwood backing on the fixtures.
I'll add to boomyals' fine post that our local victoria ash (hardwood) soaked in bondcrete is great as a backing for cleats etc.<br /><br />Aldo
 

tengals123

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 26, 2005
Messages
860
Re: screw issues

thanks once again for the quick and precise replies. One day i will be able to pass on your wisdom. cheers
 

Boomyal

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 16, 2003
Messages
12,072
Re: screw issues

I know weve probably been here before, Aldo, but what is Bondcrete and are there different varieties of it and how do you apply it.<br /><br />I did a web search and did not come up with any definitive information on the product.
 

Dunaruna

Admiral
Joined
May 2, 2003
Messages
6,027
Re: screw issues

Boom, its a water based sealer that is very cheap. It quite thick undiluted so I usually thin it down and apply with a paint brush, if I use it neat I use a trowel. Its one of those products that is only limited by the users imagination, for instance: Add to paint to achieve better adhesion, fish pond sealer, wood glue (used neat), concrete floor sealer (dries clear), use on screws as a thread lock - the list goes on and on. It's been in Aus for many years, you probably have it, maybe under a different name? <br /><br />I've just looked on the container to try and find out what the active ingredient is but it ain't there. I'll dig a little further.<br /><br />Aldo
 

Mark42

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Messages
9,334
Re: screw issues

Don't forget to use a sealer on all hardware being mounted. Not just on the bolts, but on the actual fixture as well to keep water out from under the fitting. If water gets under a piece of hardware and does not dry out, it will cause the gel coat to crack and warp. <br /><br />I used a marine grade silicone sealer on all my deck fittings, but at the moment the name escapes my brain. Same stuff is used to seal the transome through bolts. Its a silicone product, but not silicone caulk. <br /><br />Mark
 

ThomWV

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 19, 2003
Messages
701
Re: screw issues

Use 316 Stainless, it won't corrode for the most part. Although it doesn't work well with stainless I still use quarter inch aluminum plate for backing plates. It is inexpensive and easily cut to size and shape and easily drilled. You can overdrill the holes and put nylon inserts in to deal with corrosion issues - or simply ignore them for some things. For the most part our mounting hardware is quarter inch but when I resealed our deck line to the hull last year it took 120 stainless machine screws (#10's). We then used 100 stainless machine screws to hold the rub rail to the joint. I use 3M's 5200 for permanent seals. Nothing else will do. If the seal is not to be permanent I use West Marine's general purpose silicon caulk.<br /><br />Oh, most machine shops will sell you a chunk of aluminum plate that you can then use to cut your own backing plates from. You can easily cut the stuff with a hack saw, clean up the edges with either a file or a grinder. Very easy to work with and well suited to the work.<br /><br />Thom
 

Mark42

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Messages
9,334
Re: screw issues

Just a side note on Stainless hardware... <br /><br />Last fall I noticed that a town replaced all 'park bench' sytle benches by the beach with new ones that have plastic wood slats and big 316 stainless bolts w/locking nuts holding them together. I saw that and thought that by the spring the hardware will be missing. Stainless is expensive!
 
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