Dash panel

[Realgun]

I did a search as alway and came up with nothing I wanted. <br />I have 3 panels in my dash. They are aluminum with a paper/plastic cover over the top with a graphic.<br />2 switch panels left and right and 1 big panel in the middle.<br /><br />What can I use as a replacement? I really don't want wood but what else will work and be stiff enough but not thick and will hold my switches and guages?

 

[Dunaruna]

Re: Dash panel

IMO, half inch craftwood with a high gloss black paint finish.<br /><br />Aldo

 

[Mark42]

Re: Dash panel

Realgun,<br /><br />Try 1/4" plexy and paint the back side any color you want. Silver, gold and black look really great. Black looks the best. With a 1/4" of clear plexy on top it has a really deep dark look. Round off or bevel the edges of the plexy with sand paper or polish to a gloss. <br /><br />Try painting any scrap of plexy you might have to get an idea. Give it a try!<br /><br />Mark.

 

[G DANE]

Re: Dash panel

If you shop around for it you can get self adhesive "carbonfiberfinish" pvc cover film. At lease some automotive stores carry it. My brother in law used that to cover his existing panels in his searay, came out reallly nice in a different modern design. The film holds up fine to the weather. Will reflect the sun much less that shiny black and look awesome. You could also cover them with some marinegrade vinyl in gray, I am going to do that in mine.

 

[surplusman]

Re: Dash panel

Be careful with the plexy glass, in all my past experiences, it was very difficult to drill. I usually ended up cracking the glass. Maybe there are different grades, I dont know, just know it was tough to work with.

 

[Moody Blue]

Re: Dash panel

Have done the plexi trick many times and the results can look great. You can use a router and chamfer or radius the outer edges and using a low temperature torch you can "polish" the edges to a crystal clear finish. Looks like a million bucks. The only down side to plexi is that it is suseptible to UV and will yellow and craze after some time. You can buy UV inhibited grades from plastics specialty shops or places that make sky lights.<br />Another option could be to use a plastic laminate much like is used on kitchen counter tops. You glue it with contact cement to any substrate (aluminum, plastic, wood)and trim the outside flush with the panel. Its easy to work with, water proof, scratch resistant and available in hundreds of colors, textures and finishes. There are even metal finishes such a copper, brushed S/S, pewter, anodized aluminum etc etc etc. You can typically find this material at any countertop manufacturer. Most places will have offcuts and scrap pieces that will be big enough for your panels. My own personal favorite is brushed clear anodized aluminum panels with black bezeled instruments. Looks high tech and clean.

 

[Moody Blue]

Re: Dash panel

Just saw the post about working with plexiglass. If you want to drill plexi without it breaking or chipping you need to resharpen the drill bits to a much sharper tip (I think 60 degree). Bits designed for steel and wood have a much flatter tip (about 135 degree). You can buy bits specifically for working with plastics but they are expensive. The other trick is to keep the RPM of the cutting tool lower than you would for steel. High RPM's tend to melt the plastic rather than cut it.

 

[Realgun]

Re: Dash panel

The issue I have with the panels are two fold.<br />1. They are cut for the wrong size switch. I bought the contoura.<br />2. The holes all 2 of them are in the wrong places. I will have 5 or 6 holes when I am done.<br /><br />If I laminate the current panels will I be able to hide the old holes?

 

[Winger Ed.]

Re: Dash panel

I gotten to where I use 1/8" Aluminum sheet for all my dash jobs. And its sturdy, easy to get & work with.<br /><br />Cut a hole big enough for everything behind it, make the Al. panel about a 1/2" or so larger for the hold down screws to grip, and go from there.<br /><br />The holesaw/drill bit for doing house door knob holes works well for making the holds for common 2" instrument guages.

 

[Mark42]

Re: Dash panel

Aluminum will look nice, and I agree with the ease of working it. But what about keeping a nice finish on it in the boating environment? Think a clear coat will keep it from corroding? My transom light is on an aluminm poll and is annodized. After one season in the salt,it is already pitted. And that is on a boat that is trailered and washed after every use! The windshield frame is holding up betterm. Both are waxed often. I think the windshield frame is a better grade aluminum than the Perco transom light.<br /><br />I know you can crack plexy if you force the drill. Just go slow, drill at slow speeds and use sharp bits like Rodc says. It really isn't a hard to drill plexy, just don't go at it like it was steel or wood. <br /><br />Thanks to Rodc for reminding me about the flame polish technique. Forgot about that one.<br /><br />If you do go with plexy, don't worry about crazing or yellowing any time soon. Today's plastics will last years and years in direct sun. My Dad has plexy windows in his shed and they look fine after 15 years. Except for all the dirt and crap on them.... <br /><br />Wood is nice, easy to work and holds up well if covered in marine varnish. One of my co-workers claims he put wainscoat panels in his shower stall (he owns a sail boat, go figure) and all he did was give it a few coats of marine varnish. Claims it looks like new after a few years of daily use.

 

[Tinkerer]

Re: Dash panel

Originally posted by Mark42:<br /> One of my co-workers claims he put wainscoat panels in his shower stall (he owns a sail boat, go figure) and all he did was give it a few coats of marine varnish. Claims it looks like new after a few years of daily use.

A bit hard to swallow (your co-worker's statement, not your post). <br /><br />Glass and ceramics in showers get a film of soap and body grease gunge in a few weeks that take some pretty potent solvent / detergents and /or scrub pads to remove. After a few years the film builds up quicker as the surfaces wear down from cleaning and it is harder to remove.<br /><br />Maybe your co-worker doesn't shower a lot, or use soap, or his standards of "looks like new" are a bit different to some of us.<br /><br />Or maybe the maker of his marine varnish should be marketing to shower stall makers etc as the lifetime "no clean" coating.

 

[Richard Petersen]

Re: Dash panel

Can you pick up a panel that looks great and big enough from a scrapped out boat. Just cut the edges, drill mounting holes and tie in the wires. Pick the right one and gauges might still be available.

 

[Realgun]

Re: Dash panel

Richard I bough a whole bunch of instruments!!!<br />I have 2 tachometers, Speedo, Volt, Fuel, and Tilt.<br />Not a darn 1 of them calls for a standard hole of 2 inches!<br />Now in looking at the dash the dash seems to be part of the console. GROAN! I think its time to break out the sawzall again!

 

[CalicoKid]

Re: Dash panel

Realgun, I reconfigured my dash last Winter and used a piece of composite sheetstock. It was 1/16" thick fiberglass composite with the top layer being Aluminized Weave. It looks like silver carbon-fiber. First I removed everything from the helm, plugged the old holes with plywood disks, and epoxied them in. I laid a layer of mat over the backside just so the patches don't look obvious. Then I cut the blank panel to fit the dash area and epoxied it on. Lastly I cut my new holes and installed the instruments.<br />

<br />I got the material from here: RobotCombat It was pricy but unavailable elsewhere at the time and I had my heart set... and no I don't fight robots.<br /><br />Here's the back

<br /><br />The helm ended up a little thick in the end so I had to mortise out a place for my switches from behind. I like WingerEd's approach but It wouldn't work for me as I had to support the steering helm from that spot.

 

[surplusman]

Re: Dash panel

RodC thanks for the tip about the drill bits. That was the one thing I had trouble with useing the p-glass. Cutting and shapeing was ok, but I cracked everyone of those d**n holes.

 

[boatasiaus]

Re: Dash panel

Had the same issue with my boat. I used StarBoard. Completely impervious to the elements, machines like wood. Available in several colors, and thicknesses. Looks great<br /><br />Ted

 

[Realgun]

Re: Dash panel

I finally looked under the dash for the tenth time it seems like the first. I see the two guages that Bay put in, a speedo and fuel gauge. God they look bad kinda like the older chevy van we have with the slit and the pointer that goes up and you see through the slit. The needle was never level and it bugs me no end!<br /><br />Now that I look the dash is 1/8 inch thick plastic with a vinyl look to the front. The issue I have is the dash is flat but, there are two side pods.<br /><br />Also from the front it looks like it screws in like the side panels have but it turns out is 1 piece. And that is covered with a piece of vinyl film that looks like a panel. <br /><br />I believe I can get the film off and drill my holes with no problems. I just wish I had a panel so I could do most things without being upside down and twisted.<br /><br />Calico that looks very interesting.

 

[Mark42]

Re: Dash panel

How come every time I spend 5 minutes squeezing myself under the dash and getting set up to work under there, I suddenly gotta pee.<br /><br />

 

[north40]

Re: Dash panel

To eliminate cracked edges and problems drilling holes, use Polycarbonate (Lexan). Costs slightly more but does not chip or crack. Does not discolor like pliglas and does not scratch as bad.

 

[G DANE]

Re: Dash panel

Calicokid - i really like your design. Doesnt look "homemade either" great job - wish the material was available over here. Nice detail with the center of the wheel too !