Copper Fuel Lines

[Mark42]

I saw in the Coast Guard web site that Federal Regulations allow copper fuel lines. If I mounted a tank in the bow of my boat, I would need aprox 14 to 20 feet of fuel line between the tank and motor. I am thinking that the proper copper fuel line would be the better choice for a permenant fuel tank setup over hose. <br /><br />BTW, the copper line will need barbed ends sweat on to connect to rubber hose and meet code.<br /><br />Any comments or experience w/copper fuel line?

 

[Eggkr8]

Re: Copper Fuel Lines

Hi Mark,<br /><br />I downloaded a PDF of the USGC fule system regulation if you want me to email it, just say so.<br /><br />I thought the disadvantage of solid fuel line was that it would not flex but our boats do to some small degree. This would then cause the line to eventually break down? In terms of maintenance and accessability, why not run the fuel line up in your gunwale? If you want to protect it, I would think passing the fuel line through some PVC pipe would be great

 

[cc lancer]

Re: Copper Fuel Lines

MarK:<br />I have seen it a lot in the older boats, just flared ends, and hooked up.<br />I would venture to guess that it was economics, you had to have a worker skilled in bending copper, and flaring as apposed to someone just pulling a rubber hose....<br /><br />As Eggkr8 said if I was going to use copper I would put it in electrical PVC so there would not be any danger of chaffing.<br />If you ever get a chance to look at the copper fuel lines in the larger old Chris Crafts, you will see workmanship.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: Copper Fuel Lines

I really don't know about the USCG regs, but there's something I want to point out about copper tubing. If you're dealing with flexible Cu tubing, do yourself a favor and go to the plumbing supplier and get 'Schedule L' or better yet 'Schedule K'. The stuff they sell at Home Depot (at least my Home Depot) style stores is all schedual M which is really difficult to bend without kinking, and I would want the heavier wall anyway with a fuel line.<br />The right material will make all the difference. The M stuff is really impossible to work.

 

[Moody Blue]

Re: Copper Fuel Lines

I've used copper tubing in the past and it was easy to work with. Just bend it by hand. You can buy it in 50ft rolls in different diameters and there are many fittings and adapters available for compression type fittings. SAE is used for the auto industry and JIC is used for hydraulics etc. Used it for pressures up to 140PSI.

 

[G DANE]

Re: Copper Fuel Lines

I've had no problems attaching hose to the blank copper tube, as long at the diameter mathes hose size. Just press hose over the tube and use 2 clamps. You wount be able to pull it off.

 

[f_inscreenname]

Re: Copper Fuel Lines

I watched a lot of copper lines break from stress (being flexed to much) or from salt water. I have had three older boats in the past (1970's) with gas tanks in the bow. All came from the factory with rubber fuel lines from the fuel tank to the water separator.

 

[Mark42]

Re: Copper Fuel Lines

I read where most leaks are caused by hoses, not tube. I understand that flexing will cause a stress failure over time, but I think if it's properly mounted, flexing shouln't be an issue. Although corrosion may still be. <br /><br />The plan is to run rubber from tank to a primer bulb withing reach of the drivers seat, then continue with copper to the aft near the splashwell where it connects to rubber with the OMC end connection. The copper is rigidly mounted in rubber bushings where ever it is run about every foot or so and within an inch or so of each end of the tube. Regs require hose must be pushed on to a ribbed or flaired section of the tube. That's why I will just add a barb fitting to each end.<br /><br />I don't like the idea of hose flapping loose between 1' mounts. And the tube must meet the thickness specified in the regs. So I have to check out the specs on plumbing tubing to see if it meets requirements. <br /><br />I know I have made a few posts about the project before. It's just that I know that a full 18 gallon tank is going to weigh about 140lbs and that kind of weight will affect the handling of my 14.5' boat so I want as much input as possable on all aspects of it before making the investment. <br /><br />I figure to add a (new) tank in the bow with hoses, tubing, primer bulb, shut off(s), gas guage, tank mounts, OMC connector, hose mounts, 1.5" fill hose, 5/8" vent hose and deck fill/vent its going to cost about $200. That's a lot of bucks for the convenience of a permenant 18 gallon tank over two portable 6 gallon tanks I currently use. So if I'm going to do this, I want to do it right. <br /><br />And I might have to add another keel roller to the trailer two feet behind the existing one on the tongue for support and ease of loading/unloading because I it won't be so easy to push up on the boat to get it onto the keel roller when if loads crooked. <br /><br />I also want to see if the added weight to the front cuts the porpoising it does at top speed. Maybe the reduction of weight from under the splashwell will let it plane quicker? Need to get this all together and tested before I buy some trim tabs for the porpoising.

 

[beniam]

Re: Copper Fuel Lines

Mark42<br />Done something simular on 16 ft aluminum boat. Tank up front was great for weight dist. on water. Did pound the front of trailer lots. Had to add support for hull on the trailer. Used rubber fuel hose myself. Be happy, boat lots, enjoy life. Batavier

 

[AMD Rules]

Re: Copper Fuel Lines

IF not already done so, I'd recommend that you 'simulate' the weight in the bow, prior to spending the cash on the permanent tank. Thats similar to having someone sitting on your bow while in motion. I'd be concerned about 'plowing', with a nose-heavy arrangement. At higher speeds, you may find that the keel at the bow digs in, and becomes somewhat unpredictable while turning. Just my 2 cents.