Once Again, P/T vs. Regular Plywood

[dmarkvid2]

I want to make new upolsterd sides of the inside gunnels. The wood that was there was not P/T and has rotted over time. I was going to use 1/2" P/T ply so I wouldnt have to epoxy the plywood. Just glue on the foam rubber padding on, and cover it with a marine covering. That would be the easiest way, right? I ask because I'm just not sure whats best.

 

[Dunaruna]

Re: Once Again, P/T vs. Regular Plywood

Use PT and give it a coat of water based wood glue - MUCH cheaper than marine ply and it will outlast your great, great grand children.

 

[Solittle]

Re: Once Again, P/T vs. Regular Plywood

Keep in mind that P/T is impregnated with a solution under pressure. Until it is thoroughly dry, which can take months, there is a good possibility that nothing will adhere to it very well - epoxy or glue or whatever.

 

[dmarkvid2]

Re: Once Again, P/T vs. Regular Plywood

Duna, The water based wood glue? Why am I doing this? For protection? Do I coat both sides, and the edges, and let it dry? Or am I going to coat it, and then adhear material (padding) to it? I know when I go ahead and finish it with a marine covering, I'll use s.s.staples in the back

 

[Dunaruna]

Re: Once Again, P/T vs. Regular Plywood

The wood glue will acts as a mild sealer, it will not allow standing water to penetrate, the water will bead off more easily. On end grains, give it two or three coats.<br /><br />You simply mix a tube of glue (wood glue/craft glue) with some water until it is about the consistency of cream, then paint it on. It will dry fairly quickly. If you decide to glue the material on, the base coat of wood glue becomes a very good adhesion medium.<br /><br />It's not the ultimate sealer by any stretch of the imagination, it's just a cheap way to gain a little bit more protection.

 

[surlyjoe]

Re: Once Again, P/T vs. Regular Plywood

if the P/T is not complety dry when you upholster it, the chemicals leaching out of it will discolor your upholstery.

 

[Dunaruna]

Re: Once Again, P/T vs. Regular Plywood

You guys don't get kiln dried pressure treated pine boards?

 

[surlyjoe]

Re: Once Again, P/T vs. Regular Plywood

no, just the wet stuff. unless maybe the upscale home design places carry it?

 

[epresutti]

Re: Once Again, P/T vs. Regular Plywood

Mark's Joy, et. al.<br /><br />The only kiln dried PT I have seen was carried by a specialty lumber yard, I used it when I rebuilt my front porch. Some of it checked pretty bad, because I waited to long to seal it.<br /><br />I haven't seen it at Lowes or Home Depot, which is about all you get down here (Florida). I am only use to the wet stuff and have heard all the warnings being echoed by theScrumbler.<br /><br />Peace.<br /><br />Ed.

 

[BillP]

Re: Once Again, P/T vs. Regular Plywood

Use the cheap 1/2" CCA pt ply from Lowe's. Cut the pieces and let them air dry a couple weeks. Seal the edges and coat the surfaces with anything from Thompsons waterseal to thinned epoxy resin. Then stretch the fabric and staple. 10yrs from now you will be replacing the fabric and reusing the wood backings.

 

[surlyjoe]

Re: Once Again, P/T vs. Regular Plywood

you could probably use doug fir painted in thinned epoxy and it would last 10 years, that stuff is amazing

 

[PuckHog]

Re: Once Again, P/T vs. Regular Plywood

Regular ol' CD ply (make sure it's exposure rated) with a coat of penetrating epoxy sealer (comes about the consistency of water) on it will last virtually forever, make the best base for adhesives, and be totally non-reactive. Any leftover sealer is great for restoring window sills, sash, etc. around the house, so it's a good investment.

 

[2manyboats]

Re: Once Again, P/T vs. Regular Plywood

If you're handling the wet stuff, whether its wet or dry, use rubber gloves, as the chemicals are toxic!