Re: Refinishing teak
Jack, I snagged this from a diff boating forum a long time ago. Maybe it is helpful?!?<br /><br />Regarding teak care and maintenance, here is what I do. For 15 years now I have used the Amazon brand of teak care products. I have tried many others, and keep coming back to Amazon. Do not confuse teak OIL products, such as Amazon, with teak SEALER products, which are a mix of oil and cheap varnish. The sealer type of products will last longer because of the varnish/resin content, but they have a slick looking surface, yellowed, appearance. Use of the Amazon products is a three step process - one-step cleaner, a prep product to eliminate moisture, and the teak oil. <br /><br />I only use the one-step cleaner, as the two step is too harsh on the wood and the soft grain. I have tried other brands, but Amazon's is the best! Put the cleaner in a spray bottle, and spray on the wetted wood, let sit for a few minutes, and scrub with a plastic handled non-abrasive PAD. These can be found in boat stores. A tooth brush is good for tight, hard to reach spaces such as the louvered doors. But don't use scrub brushes. They take too much of the soft grain out of the teak and leave you with a raised grain surface that will become increasingly hard to maintain. Then rinse with a hose, and re-apply the cleaner, scrub pad, etc. You will have to do 3 or four applications, and you can tell when the wood is getting clean becasue it will turn a darker, richer color on each application. When you're only rinsing off clean foam, you know the dirt and old oil residue is gone. Then I use one of those foam cored sanding blocks, and lightly wet sand the surfaces before the wood dries, to smooth out the grain and get rid of any cleaner residue. Unfortunately, any teak cleaner exposes the harder grain, and some sanding is necessary.<br /><br />If there is still black (soft) grain showing, the wood is not cleaned deep enough, and you will have to continue to sand down to it. When the wood is thoroughly dry, it will look like new sanded teak. Now, at this point, if the teak is several years old, and has never really been restored, you should ORBITAL power sand to cut through the raised grain and bring back a factory new surface. The hand sanding block simply cannot restore a weathered surface. I do this about once every four or five years, and it basically gives you brand new teak ready for oiling. (or varnishing). Next, follow Amazon's directions, and apply the intermediate teak prep product. Then I use their top-of-the-line teak oil, called "Blend 55" (sometimes hard to find and requires a special order) and rub on four coats of oil, per instructions. Every month or so, an additional coat of oil keeps things looking great. Many people have commented on the teak on my Whalers, and this is how I do it. <br /><br />Regarding durability, if your boat is stored inside, and used in fresh water, the teak should look great for about 2 years using this method. However, if the boat is under a cover, but outside, and used in sub-tropical sun and saltwater, you may have to re-clean and oil in four months!
