Rebuilt Mercruiser 140/3.0 doesn’t have enough power to plane

jmpridgen

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Apr 7, 2021
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TL;DR: Rebuilt mercruiser 140, idles great but doesn’t have enough power to plane. Going to replace fuel pump, and rotor cap. Anything I’m not thinking of?



Numbers:

Engine: mercruiser 3.0 - 4779114

Carburetor: Rochester 2GC - 7043184
074 7 1

Outdrive: I think it was a pre alpha or early alpha 1 gen 1 at some point. But now it has a sterdrive engineering 106.

Alright, this might be a doozy. I’ll try to include everything that’s happened.
I bought a 1978 Bonito 8CBR last summer. It seemed like it was old, but it ran pretty well on the water. Around 32mph top speed. Then I found out that oil was spewing out of the dipstick. I did my compression test and it was low (I don’t remember the numbers now), but shot up to normal after I added some oil. Therefore, long story short, I decided to rebuild the engine as a project. A local machine shop confirmed the block was worn and bored it .030” over. They also rebuilt the head for me which included pressure testing, resurface and lapping the valves. They purchased a full kit for the engine and sent me on my way. It has a new cam, timing gears, pistons, bearings, lifters, the whole shebang all new gaskets, everything. I put the engine back together and torqued everything to spec from the service manual I have. I rebuilt the carburetor, got new plugs, wires, coil, condenser, and rotor. I did the break in procedure of running it at a few thousand rpm for 20 minutes when I first started it up. Then it mostly sat in a carport because the season was over. Now, I’ve taken it out a few times and it starts up easily, idles well. I’ve verified the idle speed in gear with a laser tachometer. It runs around 760 rpm in gear and about 900 rpm when out of gear. The timing is set between 6-10° btdc at idle. I set the point gap to .022” with feeler gauges. I’ve even checked compression just to be sure and it is 150 psi on all cylinders.

Now for the problem, it sounds like it wants to run. But if you give it throttle while in gear on the water, it won’t get any higher than about 2800 rpm. Once you get above 1500 rpm or so, it starts to sound a little like a lawn mower. If you give it more throttle, it gets louder, but engine speed doesn’t increase.
I don’t have the right timing light to verify the advance, but I can tell that it does advance. I have verified spark on cylinders at idle and even bought a secondary ignition pickup. Although I haven’t tried using an oscilloscope while on the water.
The only things that are still original on the engine are the distributor cap, the fuel pump, and the distributor assembly.
I’ve considered all sorts of options and I just can’t figure it out. I have taken the carburetor out and re-cleaned passages but nothing changes. I even bought a little kit from Amazon to clear out carburetor passages.
I’ve been able to get the boat to plane a few times and it sounds alright. It wouldn’t go much faster than about 3000 rpm, but it would at least plane. Now I can’t get it to go much faster than a few miles an hour.
I have scoured the forums for someone with a similar problem and I can’t find anything. I’ve found results for bogging, but mine doesn’t seem like bogging down and dying. It seems like the engine is pushing, but just can’t push any harder.
It has a Rochester 2GC carburetor. The carburetor is definitely suspect. The bowl was a little corroded when I rebuilt it. But I did my best to clean it. However, I am wary of buying another rebuilt carburetor in case that one isn’t in any better condition. I tried to purchase a new Chinese mercarb (by National Carburetor), but the mounting bolts were too far apart.

I have considered switching to a Holley 2300 marine, but I figure the adapter plate and modifications to the throttle linkage would be a hassle.

I figure it can’t hurt to buy a new fuel pump just in case, but I wanted to check if anyone else had experienced something similar. I have a fuel pressure gauge, but there’s no way to check the pressure with the hard fuel line.
I did align the engine with the outdrive when I put it back in. All of the bellows have been replaced along with the gimbal bearing. I’ve probably replaced more things that I’m forgetting.
I have not replaced the distributor cap, it looked okay though. I can replace that pretty easily and no harm in replacing it.
I have also not run the engine on an external tank yet.
Here are two videos showing what the engine is doing on the water. It will rev up pretty well in neutral, but not under load. They are both showing I under load.

https://youtube.com/shorts/yjDJFPywF1s?feature=share
 

Bondo

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I have also not run the engine on an external tank yet.

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,..... It sounds like it's detonating,....

Find, 'n fix the lack of fuel problem, before you burn a hole through yer new pistons,....
 

dubs283

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Jul 27, 2005
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5,333
a lot of info here...

first off, get a new distributor cap

points are set by using a dwell meter, feeler gauge is okay for initial set up but a dwell meter is used for final adjustment

idle timing isnt a range of 6-10, depending on the vintage it should be either 6 or 8 btdc. engine info tag should have that info. if no tag get an oem service manual for your engine

mercury makes an inline fuel adapter with a barb for your fuel pressure gauge, local merc dealer can order it for you

you mention replacing the condenser but not the points? install a points kit, comes with points condenser and rotor

ignition pickup? i thought you had a conventional ignition

you can check full advance with a regular timing light, have someone operate the boat while you check the timing. measure the markings and add marks for 15, 20, 25, etc

is the firing order correct? video sounds like you have a dead hole or ignition isn't firing correctly
 

jmpridgen

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Apr 7, 2021
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Find, 'n fix the lack of fuel problem, before you burn a hole through yer new pistons,....
Well said, will do. I haven't run it very much because I've been too afraid I'll damage something. I'm glad you feel the same.

Dubs283:
get a new distributor cap
Will do
points are set by using a dwell meter, feeler gauge is okay for initial set up but a dwell meter is used for final adjustment
I'll verify the dwell. I think there's a way I can do it with my multimeter measuring frequency or pwm percentage. Otherwise, I'll just get a real dwell meter.
idle timing isnt a range of 6-10, depending on the vintage it should be either 6 or 8 btdc. engine info tag should have that info. if no tag get an oem service manual for your engine
I will verify the exact number, the service manual I have says 6°. I was hoping that verifying it was around that range would be good enough.
mercury makes an inline fuel adapter with a barb for your fuel pressure gauge, local merc dealer can order it for you
I'll do some research for this. Thanks for the tip. Mine has the hard fuel line so I wasn't sure if there was any way to attach something inline.
you mention replacing the condenser but not the points? install a points kit, comes with points condenser and rotor
I did replace the points, I forgot to mention this. It came with the kit.
ignition pickup? i thought you had a conventional ignition
I mean the diagnostic pickup for an oscilloscope. Like this one on Amazon. I wanted to verify every cylinder was firing. I don't have a way to figure out which spark is which cylinder, but the waveforms looked reasonable at idle.
you can check full advance with a regular timing light, have someone operate the boat while you check the timing. measure the markings and add marks for 15, 20, 25, etc
I will try this. Since that pulley is directly connected to the crankshaft, the timing is as simple as using a protractor, right? 30° from the 0 mark on the timing cover is 30° from top dead center?
is the firing order correct? video sounds like you have a dead hole or ignition isn't firing correctly
The plug wires are hooked up correctly. Going clockwise around the distributor, the plug wires are hooked up 1, 3, 4, 2.

I tried to rotate the distributor while it was around 2500rpm and couldn't get anything to change. So I don't think the timing is too advanced. I'm going to chase the fuel hypothesis first.

Are there any brand preferences on fuel pumps? Are the cheap ones on Amazon really okay? I don't want it to leak into the boat while I'm on the water.

I'll report back my findings. Will be a few weeks before I'm back with the boat on the water.

Advice is much appreciated. I've learned a lot lurking on iboats.
 

jmpridgen

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Alright, I replaced the distributor cap with a quicksilver one and replaced the fuel pump with a Sierra one and there is no change. I will try running off of an external tank next. This boat ran great when I got it (aside from spewing oil out the dipstick). I didn’t touch the fuel tank at all except to take the line off the fuel pump. So it’s really odd that the fuel tank could be the culprit. Although I suppose anything’s possible.
 

jmpridgen

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Alright, I just checked the timing and it is actually a little retarded. It was 0° at tdc at idle. I also checked the advance and it does advance. I didn’t check any higher than 3000 rpm but it seems to top out around 12:00-12:30 on the main pulley. I’ll try and figure out what that angle is.
 

jmpridgen

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Was the cam and crank gears aligned correctly

View attachment 342778
At the time, I was pretty certain I was doing it right. The only picture I have, the cam and crank are 180° off so it’s hard to tell if it’s right on the money. Mine has timing gears that mesh together and no timing chain. I lined up the two marks on the gears. It’s definitely possible that I made a mistake somewhere though.

Having trouble attaching the photo on mobile, but I can attach it later
 

jmpridgen

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This is the best photo I have of the cam and crank gear. I have been trying to count the teeth to figure out if it's one tooth off, but I can't quite tell. I suppose that could cause the problem, and is a likely culprit since I'm the one that put it together.
IMG_1134.jpg
 

alldodge

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Take the valve cover off, remove No 1 spark plug. Remove + side wire from coil.

Bump the starter and watch the rocker arms. Watch for No. 1 cylinder intake valve to open. Keep going slowly and watch to the intake to close. Once closed keep going until the notch on the vibration damper comes up to TDC.

Now watch the damper notch go around further and it should make it 180* "before" the exhaust valve starts to open
 

Searay205

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I chased a similar headache for months. Valves floated I replaced valve springs. Engine developed a miss/knock. So removed intake cleaned lifters assuming one was stuck. Put back together noise jumped to other side. Ordered new lifters, no difference. In end I had cracked a spark plug while taking out the plugs to remove the valve springs. Put it back in unknowningly. 6 weeks of chasing a ghost which was a bad spark plug. I feel for you....
 

jmpridgen

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Take the valve cover off, remove No 1 spark plug. Remove + side wire from coil.

Bump the starter and watch the rocker arms. Watch for No. 1 cylinder intake valve to open. Keep going slowly and watch to the intake to close. Once closed keep going until the notch on the vibration damper comes up to TDC.

Now watch the damper notch go around further and it should make it 180* "before" the exhaust valve starts to open
I’ll try this if the external tank doesn’t work. Thanks for the procedure.
 

jmpridgen

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I chased a similar headache for months. Valves floated I replaced valve springs. Engine developed a miss/knock. So removed intake cleaned lifters assuming one was stuck. Put back together noise jumped to other side. Ordered new lifters, no difference. In end I had cracked a spark plug while taking out the plugs to remove the valve springs. Put it back in unknowningly. 6 weeks of chasing a ghost which was a bad spark plug. I feel for you....
That’s a long time without a boat!
 

jmpridgen

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Tried the external tank. Same thing still. I used fresh 90 octane no ethanol gas with a brand new fuel line and it’s pretty much the same.


I suppose it could be timing, but I counted the teeth in that photo and it really seems like the marks would line up if the crank was rotated 360°. I’ll re-check the photo and try the starter procedure if it looks ambiguous.

Is it possible that I royally messed up the carburetor? Would float level or an enlarged orifice cause that much of a problem?
 

Bondo

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Is it possible that I royally messed up the carburetor? Would float level or an enlarged orifice cause that much of a problem?
Ayuh,..... Spark plug colors can tell ya that story,....
 

jmpridgen

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This is #1 cylinder. I’ll look at the rest too.
 

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jmpridgen

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#2 and #4 looked about the same but #3 looks fouled. Not sure if these will attach in order, but #3 is obvious.
 

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