Re: What is the best way to spice wires?
Rick - the answer to your question is in the second-to-last paragraph ... or read the rambling to get there.
<br /><br />For use on a boat, the ONLY way to splice wires is either a screwed or crimped* butt connector or other mechanical fastener such as a terminal block. Absolutely NO soldering connection of conductors for any use on a boat, per ABYC code and adopted by the USCG. It is not clear to me if this rule applies to solder type VHF antenna wire connectors.<br /><br />For use of conductors underwater, either use the appropriate un-spliced, type 3 conductors or house the conductors in a submergible, non-conductive (rigid or flexible) conduit such as liquid-tight. The conduit needs to terminate in a NEMA type 6 or 6P enclosure for prolonged submerged, NEMA type 4X if occasional exposed to water (4X is water tight from a direct hose blast). You may not need an enclosure at all if you are only routing the conductor(s) through a wet environment, dry at both ends.<br /><br />Conductors (wires) need to be marine grade, stranded (type 2 or type 3) only. NO SOLID COPPER (type 1) CONDUCTORS** . NO ALUMINUM CONDUCTORS OF ANY KIND***. If the conductors are in conduit you can use type 2, otherwise use type 3. The difference is type 3 wire has more strands of a smaller diameter that can tolerate a greater level of vibration/flexing without the individual strands breaking inside the insulator. Type 2 wire doesnt tolerate as much flexing but is protected from it in the conduit.<br /><br />I dont even mess with it
I only use type-3 conductors for everything
in or out of conduit. I buy Type 3, 105 deg C, marine-grade**** wire on Ebay for 1/3 retail price (made by East Penn Mfg). I use Carlon LiquidTight flexible conduit and fittings (Home Depot), Stahlin NEMA 4X fiberglass boxes (Ebay, 1/3 retail price), cheap brass connectors inside enclosures, Anchor connectors outside enclosures. I have high voltage AC (120/60 30amps) and high voltage DC (100 amps) running thru the bilge, fully protected. It was been totally submerged in diesel fuel and in seawater for prolonged periods
no problems.<br /><br />* It is ok to use a solid, electrical grade copper bar for power distribution.<br />** Crimping methodology is now better than ever and as good as any soldered joint for conductivity and has more than enough holding strength
if done correctly. I use an Ancor ratchet crimp tool, model 701030. It double crimps, both the stripped portion of wire in the connector and the nylon insulation around the un-stripped part of the wire at the same time without over crimping and crushing. I have not been able to pull and separate a wire from a crimped connector.<br />*** This includes NOT using those common, cheap aluminum connectors like you find in auto parts stores or hardware stores. Anchor brand or other marine grade (plated brass) is preferred. Inexpensive, uncoated brass connectors are just as good IF you coat them with liquid electrician tape or equivalent after crimping. Technically, ATO type fuses (a.k.a. blade fuses) are not approved for use on a boat because they are an aluminum conductor inside.<br />**** Marine-grade wire has each copper strand tin coated to prevent corrosion. The stripped wire appears silver but the end of a cut piece of wire is copper.<br /><br />For your application you can use an inexpensive brass butt connectors without the nylon insulator, crimp, coat with liquid e-tape, then adhesive lined shrink tubing. This connection meets all the rules, will not corrode, will tolerate splashing water, but it is NOT appropriate for prolonged submersion. To submerge, use the same process but route the wire through liquid-tight conduit as mentioned above.<br /><br />Why go do it right? I met someone that used to be an insurance adjuster. She explained how her job was to investigate until she found something not standard or not to code that could be reasonably blamed as the cause of the mishap to remove all liability on the part of the insurance company. This leaves the boat owner negligent and responsible for all repair/replacement costs of their boat, any damage to docks, piers, other boats, fuel spilled, etc
She said the whole process made her sick and she quit the insurance industry altogether.<br /><br />James liquid e-tape on its own is an adequate seal against corrosion where flexing is not an issue. If flexing is expected, add the adhesive lined shrink tubing over the liquid e-tape.
