Charger and Battery Questions: New Boater

[Sevcrist]

I have a Polarkraft aluminum fishing boat on order and since this will be my first decked out boat I have a few questions.<br /><br />The boat will have 2 batteries, one for the engine and the other for the trolling motor,fishfinder and accessories.<br /><br />First, do I need to charge the engine battery with a charger or will the alternator from the engine take care of that?<br /><br />Second, I'm thinking about getting an onboard charger. Would a one bank or a two bank charger be better for me?<br /><br />Last, are there any other accessories ie., a switch that would be beneficial in this setup that I have?<br /><br />Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[vipzach]

Re: Charger and Battery Questions: New Boater

It depends on what kind of batteries they are. If the starting battery is not deep cycle the alt. will charge it backup, depending on how long your runs back to the dock or trailer are. The trolling battery will be a deep cycle battery that will probly need charging backup, because the alt. will not fully charge it back up. <br /> It will also depend on how they are wired up. Do they have an automatic switch that will allow both to be charged? Do they have a manuel switch that you have to switch? I would highly recommend one that automatically switched allowing them both to charge while the boat is running. <br /> If you are getting an onboard charger I would recommend a two bank smart charger. As for the accessories I would recommend one that auto switched. That way there is nothing to remember and less of a chance of damaging your alt, because you switched at the wrong time. <br /> Again this is just my opinion and also depends how they are already wired. Hope this helps.

 

[jurgenscraft]

Re: Charger and Battery Questions: New Boater

My battery system in my boat is as follows ,I have two identical batteries connected in parrallel, (deep cycle 120 amp batteries,sealed) and I find that is is sufficient power to last me for what I need to do while away from shore, this includes GPS, VHF, HF ,LIGHTS,etc,The alternator fitted under the fly wheel is definitely incapable of charging these batteries if they run down,I have a smart charger fitted within the electrical panel as well as a marine grade plug and extension cord,I have yet to charge the batteries while docked but after towing the boat home I plug in the charger and bring the batteries up to a full charge,One of the most important items to fit in circuit is a volt meter (marine Rated) which will enable you to monitor the condition of your batteries ( two meters if your batteries have individual functions and circuits. <br />keep the batteries charge when not in use ,will lengthen the life of your batteries as well as contributing towards a relaxing day while out on the water, you do not want to be stranded out there somewhere without power,<br />Kind Regards.<br />William Wright.

 

[Boatist]

Re: Charger and Battery Questions: New Boater

Sevcrist<br />Your motor will normaly charge your Starting battery just fine. A lot depends on the motor, all I/O will charge your starting battery, also larger and newer electric start outboards should charge. Older outboards may have a very small alternator to charge the battery. Also manual start outboards may not charge the starting battery at all. So check your motor spec and see if it has a alternator output of at least 9 amps.<br /><br />Even if your motor does charge your starting battery you still need a charger. In the off seasons batteries self discharge and should be charged at least once a month.<br /><br />Big trolling motor batteries will need to be fully charged at the end of your outing. Since your trolling motor will take lots of power out of the battery that need to be replaced. Even if you use a battery isolator or battery combiner to charge both batteries from your motor it is very unlikely trolling motor battery will be fully recharged. If you do not fully recharge both batteries then battery life will be shortened. On board charger pretty pricey but most are very good. Make sure anything you buy is fully automatic and at least 10 amps per bank. Fully automatic chargers will fully charge with out over charging. Since you have two banks a two bank charger makes since. You can also charge with a one bank charger thru a battery isolator.<br /><br />The way you have set up you do not need a battery switch. I belive battery switches destroy more alternators on boats than anyting elese. Still many do install switches. The battery switch allow you to select which battery to use to start your engine. Also will allow you to charge either battery or both from your motor. The down side is if you turn the switch with the motor running you can destroy your motor's alternator. Bests switches make the second battery before break the first battery so always have a battery connected unless you turn thru off. If the motor is running and has no battery connected even for a small part of a second it will blow your alternator. Without a switch if you run your starting battery down your would have to jumper the positive battery connectors or switch batteries to start the motor.

 

[farginicehole]

Re: Charger and Battery Questions: New Boater

Onboard "smart" chargers might seem a little pricey, but they'll save you much grief dealing with dead/low battery problems and are worth every penny! Mine is a Guest 2613, and it works great for me. It is a 3-bank charger, with 5 amps x 2 trolling battery banks and has a 3 amp bank for the starter battery. Boatist, just curious why you say "at least 10 amps per bank"? Is that just for faster recovery time of a discharged deep cycle battery? I don't fish tournaments or anything, so mine probably don't regularly get discharged that low.

 

[Boatist]

Re: Charger and Battery Questions: New Boater

Farginicehole<br />Yes really just to get the battery charge back up in a resonable time. I belive the longer it is discharged the more damage is done. Also if you prefished all day before a tournament then went home and charged with a 2 to 6 amp charger when you get up at 3AM to head to the tournament you will find the batteries are not fully charged yet. Even with a 10 amp it may not be fully charged. <br /><br />I use to think slow charger was the way to go but not anymore. I see a lot of deep cycle battery in motor homes or camper charged with the trucks standard 160 amp alternator and they do fine. To be honest they are useing a 6 or 8 guage wire so probably charges more like 30 amps max to start then tappers off. I have a 20 amp charger I sometimes use but even with a 50 percent discharged battery it will charge at 20 for less than 10 minutes before it starts to taper off. I figure if your batteries can supply 30 amps to run your trolling motor then 20 amps for 10 minutes is not going to hurt them. With a 10 amp charger to a trolling motor battery it is not going to affect the battery as long as it a automatic or smart charger.

 

[farginicehole]

Re: Charger and Battery Questions: New Boater

Thanks, Boatist. I think the money spent on these quality chargers pays for itself within a few years due to the extended battery life - not to mention all of the headache and lost fishing time when you have battery problems on the water!