1994 Johnson 200 Ocean Runner Regulator

[RHB]

I went to my OMC dealer to purchase a regulator.<br />He pulled the part from stock and we compared the new regulator to the old (bad?) one. They both had the same part number stamped on the chassis. The new one did not have a violet wire but was the same in all other respects. The mechanic was stumped. My service manual shows the violet wire connected to the ignition key switch terminal "A". Can anyone advise what the violet wire does inside the regulator? Is it possible that a bad connection to the violet wire from the key switch would cause no output from the regulator?<br /><br />Thanks<br />RHB

 

[clanton]

Re: 1994 Johnson 200 Ocean Runner Regulator

The purple/violet wire provides 12 volts to regulator, will not charge without this wire and 12 volts. There may have been a change, but if changed, instructions about change and installation should have been in the box, with the regulator. DHadley can tell you where to drill hole in top of block to insure cooling water<br />reaches the regulator. Replace the wing nuts on battery with stainless steel nuts, keep termials clean. If dealer cant get you a regulator, try WWW.Rapair.com. IBoats may be dealer for Repair try them.

 

[RHB]

Re: 1994 Johnson 200 Ocean Runner Regulator

Thanks for that reply. No instructions in the sealed box. The mechanic says no bulletin from OMC so he was stumped. I have read the posts on the air trapped in the water jacket. The water side of the regulator is covered with salt residue. Does this indicate OK cooling from water jacket? I did not use any wing nut connections when I installed the new battery. All connections were made clean and tight.

 

[Scale Performance]

Re: 1994 Johnson 200 Ocean Runner Regulator

Just an update about the purple wire from the reg/rect. Bombardier engineers decided against putting the purple wire on the reg/rect. they did alittle re-engineering of it. I was intrigued by it not having one, so i called them up and found out the scoop.. not needed anymore!!<br /><br />SP

 

[Dieselpowerman]

Re: 1994 Johnson 200 Ocean Runner Regulator

DHadley can tell you where to drill hole in top of block to insure cooling water<br />reaches the regulator.

DHadley, do you have any more details or pictures of this mod? I have a 1995 175 Ocean Pro and am interested in prolonging the life of my voltage regulator. Thanks in advance.<br /><br />Dieselpowerman

 

[seahorse5]

Re: 1994 Johnson 200 Ocean Runner Regulator

The service bulletin describing the new designed regulator came out last year. Your "mechanic" must not keep up with the factory info.<br /><br />8/1/2001 Parts and Accessories Bulletin 2001-01, August 2001, Rectifier/Regulator Purple Lead<br />Replacement rectifier/regulators have been improved to automatically turn on under normal engine operation. These improved rectifier/regulators do not have a purple lead.

 

[seahorse5]

Re: 1994 Johnson 200 Ocean Runner Regulator

On 1993 thru 1996 200-225hp Johnsons and Evinrudes, you can drill an air bleed hole in the center of the plastic blow off valve (pressure relief) on the back of the block to avoid air-locking the water cooled regulator. An easier way is to purchase a '97 or later plastic valve piece which has grooves in it for bleeding air.

 

[Dieselpowerman]

Re: 1994 Johnson 200 Ocean Runner Regulator

Seahorse,<br /> Thanks for the description. Is this the relief valve for the water pressure in the block? Will this mod work on my 175 also? Is there any way we can come up with a picture? Sorry for so many questions, I just want to be sure and nip this one in the bud.<br /><br />RHB,<br /> How is the new voltage reg working?

 

[seahorse5]

Re: 1994 Johnson 200 Ocean Runner Regulator

The 175 is a completely different block than the 3.0L 200-225 and doesn't have the "blow off" valve. In later years they drilled and pressed in a brass fitting near the regulator and ran a hose down to the water outlet in the block. I don't remember if you could backfit something like that to yours. Actually, the 150-175 series did not have regulator problems like the bigger motors, due to a better design. Make sure you have hex nuts and lockwashers fastening your battery cables. No wing nuts!!!!

 

[Dieselpowerman]

Re: 1994 Johnson 200 Ocean Runner Regulator

I'll just keep an eye out for things like the tach quitting and the volt meter creeping up too high. If any of the signs show up, then I'll pursue a cooling fix. Thanks for the info.

 

[RHB]

Re: 1994 Johnson 200 Ocean Runner Regulator

I'm heading down to the boat today armed with a flywheel puller, peak reading voltmeter, scope and good intentions to make sure I guess correctly before I spend the $200 on a new regulator.

 

[RHB]

Re: 1994 Johnson 200 Ocean Runner Regulator

I installed a new regulator, and pulled the flywheel to eyeball the stator coil assy and get a good look at the magnets. The magnets were good. The stator coil tested OK with ohmeter but appeared to have some black substance (insulating material?) that had cooked out from overheating. I don't know what to do about that.<br />I reassembled and fired up to test it all. I have to say whoever decided (mechanical engineer)to try and pack all those wires between the regulaor and the power pack has no idea how to package a design. The regulator outputs from 15V to 13V depending on RPM? or temperature of the motor. It's not working correctly so either the stator assembly is bad or motor temperature is causing the output to vary. I measured the motor temperature at the thermostat with a meter/thermocouple and it measured 156 F after running hard offshore for two hours. My other motor measured 140 F. I have good water pump pressure. Any advise would be appreciated.

 

[seahorse5]

Re: 1994 Johnson 200 Ocean Runner Regulator

The melted insulation is from the ignition power coil and the 2 charge coils. The faulty regulator caused the stator voltage to rise and build up heat which melted the insulation. Replace the stator for best results and to avoid future ignition problems. <br /><br />Be sure to drill out (1/8") or replace the blow off valve to bleed out any trapped air under the regulator. See one of my previous posts.<br /><br />You need to test the total amp output at various rpms as explained in the service manual. A quick and easy way is to pull the kill switch and crank the motor over 2 times, 20 seconds each time with a few moments of cooling time for the starter. Start the motor and use an inductive ammeter to read the charging amps as you rev the motor. It should show close to 30-35 amps at 3500 or so. After running the boat for a while, use a digital voltmeter on the battery terminals to check voltage, and compare that with the in-dash voltmeter. The battery should be above 13 and at or below 15V if the regulator is OK.<br /><br />Make sure the battery connection are shiney clean and tightened with lockwashers and stainless nuts, and that the battery is a heavy duty (above 550 CCA) and in good condition with plenty of water in it.

 

[RHB]

Re: 1994 Johnson 200 Ocean Runner Regulator

Thanks for the reply Seahorse.<br /><br />I pulled the hose from the blow off valve to the thermostat and started the motor. I observed exhaust gas then water flow. Does that indicate the valve is operating as it should?

 

[seahorse5]

Re: 1994 Johnson 200 Ocean Runner Regulator

Remove the 2 screws and pull the housing out of the block. You want some type of opening in the plastic nose-cone looking thingy to bleed out any trapped air. A new one has grooves in it or you can drill a 1/8" hole in it.

 

[RHB]

Re: 1994 Johnson 200 Ocean Runner Regulator

Will do Seahorse. Thanks for the advise. <br /><br />One more question. Can muratic acid (swimming pool cleaning concentration) be used to flush the cooling system? An experienced mechanic advised me to pull the thermostats and pour the acid through the cooling system.

 

[seahorse5]

Re: 1994 Johnson 200 Ocean Runner Regulator

Muriatic acid eats aluminum up. Besides that, the motor automatically drains when it shuts off, so even if you poured acid inside it, it would run right out. Acid is used to clean out CAST IRON manifolds and parts.<br /><br />You don't have an overheat problem so don't even think about it.