Johnson 140 power-head removal

[Clive123]

I'm removing the powerhead of a 1980 Johnson 140 so I can fix up all the worn pins etc lower down. I believe I've removed all the bolts to allow the powerhead to be lifted free of the exhaust, but there is no give when I gently prise with a crowbar between the powerhead and exhaust at the rear. I don't want to hire an engine hoist yet, as I suspect it will just lift the back of the boat up! Have you any tricks for removing the powerhead - any hidden bolts not mentioned in the Clymer Evinrude/Johnson outboard shop manual 48-235hp? Model No. is J140TLCSA on the bracket, but the powerhead has been rebuilt at some stage (before I got it) and the welsh plug has the number 0481878 on it.

 

[fishinhole]

Re: Johnson 140 power-head removal

just put a little more presure between head and eshaust, they are made of alum. and can fuse together with corrison, it should lift off. try using an old wood chisel, they are thinner so you can get it started easier

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Johnson 140 power-head removal

Clive.... Don't shove any kind of tool between the powerhead and the adapter plate in an attempt to pry it off as you will damage the aluminum surfaces.<br /><br />Attachments are: 2 nuts at front, 2 short bolts at front, 8 long bolts at sides, 2 nuts at back. And of course the odds and ends attaching the powerhead to the shroud pan.<br /><br />The studs that the nuts were on can get pretty well salt corroded, especially the rear ones. Sometimes it's simply a mater of getting under those rear or front studs and applying pressure to them. And as the previous post implied, even the gasket between the powerhead and the adapter plate can have a fairly strong hold. Let us know how you make out.

 

[NOSLEEP]

Re: Johnson 140 power-head removal

hello clive123<br />During the summer i replaced my power head, i could not get the power head to come free of the exaust manifold. a freind suggested i spray wd40 between the the powerhead and exaust manifod, making sure of coarse that all bolts were removed. after letting sit overnight, it broke free with just a push . it worked for me as p/head was stuck to gaskets and no amount of prying could release it. maybe you have the same problem.

 

[Clive123]

Re: Johnson 140 power-head removal

Many thanks for your responses. I hadn't mentioned that the rear two long bolts were so corroded I had to grind the heads off (too rusted even to make a screw-driver slot in them). So I had two bolts as well as the two rear studs holding the back of the powerhead. The front was flapping up and down without any problem! Eventually (today) after removing the left cylinder head to get better access, I was able to get enough of a gap to hacksaw off the two rear long bolts (without damaging the surfaces). So the powerhead is now off! Now all I have to do is remove the corroded bolts holding the mid-section together - more bolt-head grinding and easy-outs required unfortunately!