Evinrude Lark identification

[tranzam]

Hi, I'm looking for the year and any other specific information on some Evinrude Lark 35s.<br /><br />I have 2:<br /><br />SN: 28290<br />SN: 35517<br /><br />The first one is a complete unit, and Idles, but bogs down & dies under throttle, the second is missing some crucial pieces, so I'm using it for spare parts.<br /><br />Any information reguarding troubleshooting, rebuild, schematics etc. would be appreciated.<br /><br />Thank you,<br />Jason<br />jason.lloyd@attbi.com

 

[Lark40]

Re: Evinrude Lark identification

35517 is a 1959 Lark 35 long shaft.<br /><br />That other number sounds like a mid 1960's 28 hp.<br /><br />Both Clymer and Seloc have repair manuals available.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: Evinrude Lark identification

28's have a single casting head with no thermostat if that's any help. All you see from the top of the head is a welsh plug.<br />Sounds like you've got carb problems on it, mabey a blocked main jet. A manual will walk you through the rebuild nicely.

 

[tranzam]

Re: Evinrude Lark identification

Thanks Lark40 and Paul. The two engines visually are identical. I'm not sure what a thermostat looks like on these motors. I'm a whiz with a chevy 350, but these 2 strokes are a mystery to me. I'm heading out now to a local marine shop to pick up a Clymer manual on it. I appreciate the quick response.<br /><br />-Jason

 

[tranzam]

Re: Evinrude Lark identification

I ended up with a Seloc manual, but it doesn't have a very clear description of the wire harness (pin positions). Can anyone shed some light on this? It does give the wire colors, and I'm handy with a multi-meter, but I'm concerned that some of the wires in the harnes may not be original.<br /><br />Thanks!<br />-Jason

 

[DSL DOC]

Re: Evinrude Lark identification

does ne1 prefer the clymer or seloc manual better )

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: Evinrude Lark identification

I'm not sure exactly what your asking but you ought to trace back those wires if you don't think their original. Just remember that the ignition system is completely independant from everything else. Grounding the leads dropping from the armature kills your spark, and while the engine is running they have ~180v pulse on them (a real bite).<br />All the accessory leads should have close to 0 ohms to ground. Disconnect one at the accessory (eg, the wire going into the choke solenoid) and check your harness for which wire just went open. Tag it with tape and continue.<br /><br />DSL Doc, I prefer the Seloc manual, but I guess the Clymer has better wiring diagrams.

 

[tranzam]

Re: Evinrude Lark identification

Perhaps it would be advisable to own both then, since they are so inexpensive, but I can see that I failed to explain the problem in enough detail. I have a harness comming out of the engine, with wires going everywhere, but connecting to nothing, and inside the engine case, only SOME of the wires make connections, so I can't tell which wires in the harness connect to the choke, kill switch etc. If I only planned on using one motor, it wouldn't matter much, but because I own two nearly complete motors, the possibility exists that I would swap them, and I wouldn't want to re-wire the whole boat every time I have to change. I guess I'm just really planning on the future, perhaps I will purchase a motor with more horsepower or something. I'll seek out the Clymers manual next, and see if that helps, but if anyone has any helpful tips, they would also be appreciated.<br /><br />Thanks for all your help so far...<br /><br />-Jason

 

[Lark40]

Re: Evinrude Lark identification

The Clymer manual has excellent wiring diagrams.<br /><br />Some of the inside wires are for a generator, so will be unused if you don't have one.<br /><br />Keep in mind what Paul said - as far as the ignition goes, these engines are much closer to simple lawnmowers than to a Chevy 350. They don't need a battery to run. The "on" position of a key switch is open, not closed as with a car.<br /><br />The Clymer diagrams will show this.

 

[tranzam]

Re: Evinrude Lark identification

Thanks Lark40. I bought a Clymer manual, and it's a little more helpfull with the electrical, but I have a new problem, yet related to the old, so I'm continuing in this thread instead of starting a new one.<br /><br />I unwrapped the tape around the wire harness that goes into the engine, and it's totally ruined. I'm suprised the wires havn't arced yet. Both the positive and negative cables are bare just next to the rubber boot at the engine side of the harness. The only thing keeping them from touching is the insulation of OTHER wires in the harness that separate them. It's too close to the rubber boot for me to be able to repair the wires, so I need to get a new harness. I've searched the "marine mega mall" and found nothing, but I may be using the wrong terminolagy. Can anyone help me find one?<br /><br />Thanks again,<br />-Jason

 

[alcan]

Re: Evinrude Lark identification

Hi Transam<br />I don't know of anyone offering new after market harnesses for these models. You may find one use in good condition. How ever I think you will find most used harnesses to be in no better condition than the one you have. Since this is a fairly simple rig, why not just build your own harness from scratch.

 

[tranzam]

Re: Evinrude Lark identification

Too right you are, Alcan. As it turns out, I called over a dozen boat shops, salvage yards, and internet sites, and everybody said "no dice"... one site told me that harness hadn't been available since 1984. I ended up cutting away the rubber boot where the wires come out, and lifted enough of it away, to wrap the wires in heat shrink, and electrical tape, but I'm afraid it's not going to be reliable. The reason I'm not making my own harness from scratch, is that I didn't want to be concerned about water entering the top end via the previous harness hole. I think this solution will hold out for at least 2 seasons, and by then, I should be able to afford a new outdrive, and I'll part my existing ones out on E-Bay or something.<br /><br />Thanks to all for your excellant help!<br /><br />-Jason

 

[SeaMasterZ@aol.com]

Re: Evinrude Lark identification

when I was working on The Fleet "back in the day" there was something called Liquid Lectrical Tape, and it was good stuff, instant insulation in a bottle, has a brush inside like never seize does, hooked to the cap ... if you didnt feel like making a new harness, you can always use this stuff, if its still out there, I hope it is, I have a feeling that I am going to need copious amounts of it!<br /><br />hope that helps, good luck

 

[SeaMasterZ@aol.com]

Re: Evinrude Lark identification

(Lark40, you cant comment on this, you are too biased) )~<br /><br />the lark is a damn good engine, its generator equipped and has electric choke, upgraded thermostat, and on and on, bottom line they were TOP of the line mid range engines, if the compression is good, Mastertech has all sorts of psrts to tune it up<br /><br />I used to solder wires together and pull them through defunct harnesses, if the wires move in the harness it should work<br /><br />Hmmmmmmmm<br /><br />yanno ...<br /><br />if you were to take PVC tubing with in inside diameter of the hole, you could lay the new wires in the tubing, pump RTV into the tube, and then you could carefully cut the tubing away, and have a silicone plug to go into the engine, run a bead of rtv around the edge of the hole<br /><br />somewhere in the dusty back corners of my mind, I recall ads for the silicone in a tube (was it DAP? I cant recall) but anyway, they showed a guy putting a straw around trailer wires, and filling the straw with silicone, waterproof connection was the point ... this is a thirty year old memory, but I think it would work<br /><br />give it a shot, good luck!

 

[SeaMasterZ@aol.com]

Re: Evinrude Lark identification

DOW silicone ... the stuff that had a dollop of it on the package so you could feel how pliable it was