Re: Substitution of OMC products during water pump replacement
Baily.... Substitute as follows:<br /><br />1. OMC Moly Lube = Any anti corrosive lube/grease.<br /><br />2. OMC Adhesive Sealant = Marprox Sealer 1000, also available as Boat Armor Sealer 1000.<br /><br />3. OMC Triple-Guard Grease (is this white lithium gease?) = This is OMC's anti corrosive grease. Evinrude color is blue, Johnson is green. This is not the white lithium grease.<br /><br />4. OMC Gasket Sealing Compound = Regular gasket sealing compound. Comes in a can with a small brush in its screw off cap.<br /><br />5. OMC Outboard Lubricant (is this 2-stroke oil?) = I have no idea what they're referring to here, or for what purpose.<br /><br />6. OMC Needle Bearing Assembly Grease = Any anti corrosive grease.<br /><br />Bottom line = As follows:<br /><br />(Gasket Sealers - Available at any first rate automotive parts type store.)<br /><br />Do Not use any type of sealer on outboard carburetor or intake manifold gaskets as this would cause blockage of various fuel/air passageways. Also, there are new type gaskets which are used through out the engines that are coated with a substance that gives a shinny appearance to them. These gaskets are coated with a self sealer and are to be installed as is.... no sealers! Older style head and fuel related gaskets that are not coated with this substance are to be simply coated with oil.... nothing else.<br /> <br />All other gaskets (hopefully I've not overlooked anything above) should be coated with Gasket Sealer (the type that comes in a can that has a small brush in its screw off cap).<br /> <br />Sealer 1000 or OMC Adhesive (same substance) should be used on any metal to metal or metal to plastic surface (such as impeller hsg to plate) to eliminate air leaks. It should also be used on the Spaghetti tubing that is used on many powerhead crankcase halves, lower unit skegs, etc. I have found that this substance works quite well on various "O" Rings such as what are found on lower unit carrier and upper driveshaft bearing housings (Note that this substance is obviously not to be used on all "O" Rings).<br /> <br />DO NOT use any sealer on the large "O" Rings that are used on the upper and lower crankcase heads (The housing/heads that slide over the top and bottom of the crankshaft). On those "O" Rings, use only a coating of grease.<br /> <br />Sealer 1000 may also be found in other brand names such as "Boat Armor" but the name of Sealer 1000 will always be mentioned on the tube.<br /> <br />The exception of surface to surface contacts pertains to the later model matching crankcase (block) halves (which does not incorporate spaghetti tubing) which call for "Gel-Seal", or any other surface that calls for Gel-Seal. This substance seals in the absense of air, and if called for, must be used. One other form of Gel Seal that can be substituted is "Loctite #518". Nothing else that I know of will do!<br /><br />I advise against using silicone or permatex on a outboard engine. It simply will not function properly. The exception to this (as per OMC's recommendation), is to use the black Permatex (heavily) on the gasket 306242 which seperates the inner exhaust tube from the exhaust housing on the 1959 35hp and 1960 to 1970 40hp OMC outboards.
<br /><br />I don't know how long this engine was run in this condition. Are there any known problems from extened running with this condition?<br /><br />Moved to the thermostats next and found that the the only thing left of them was the cone part facing the block. Everything else corroded away. I suspect that the pieces that left the t-stats might be hung up in the engine some where.