V4 - Rebuild question

Solittle

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Apr 28, 2002
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I'm looking at a motor as a rebuild project. It has one bad cylinder. Assume that I have it bored and get a new piston for it.<br /><br />If the other three cylinders are within spec should I get new rings and knock the glaze off of the cylinder walls or leave them alone??
 

Sal G

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May 30, 2003
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Re: V4 - Rebuild question

I'm also rebuilding my V-4.<br />Overwhelming consensus- Rebore ALL cylinders<br />with new pistons.
 

The Marine Doctor

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Re: V4 - Rebuild question

Yes..anything worth while doing..is worth while doing properly. Do all the cyl's.<br /><br />TMD
 

Solittle

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Re: V4 - Rebuild question

Good input and that is what I would probably do. However I am hoping that someone will give a shot at answering my question.
 

ob

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Re: V4 - Rebuild question

Mich the other three cylinders and insure that you have a concentric bore before honing and installing new rings.Not good practice to install new piston rings in any cylinder that shows eliptical wear.You could even remove and end gap check each existing ring in the other three holes ,howwever if you break just one you might have just as well broke all of them for that cylinder.I'd base my final decision on the outcome of the cylinder readings.
 

Hooty

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Re: V4 - Rebuild question

Regardless if you bore one cylinder or all four , before reassembling, wash the cylinders out with hot, soapy (Dawn) water several times, rinse and then oil to keep from rusting. Gasoline or solvent won't get the abrasive and cutting oil out.<br /><br />c/6<br />Hooty
 

OBJ

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Dec 27, 2002
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Re: V4 - Rebuild question

Ditto ob's and hooty's post. If ya' don't need to bore..don't. Like ob posted, mike the bores and make sure they are ROUND. Take your time with this check. If you reuse the old pistons, if servicable, clean the ring grooves so no traces of carbon are present.
 

Dhadley

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Feb 4, 2001
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Re: V4 - Rebuild question

This has been a much debated subject but heres the jist of it --<br /><br />Yes, you can oversize one cylinder in a 2 stroke outboard. OE pistons and quality (not all) aftermarket pistons are all within weight tolerences whether they are standard or oversize.<br /><br />The true issue is wear on the cylinders. Cylinders are measured with a dial bore gauge for size, taper and out-of-round. Each cylinder is measured in at least 4 places. <br /><br />The final measurements are taken to determine the "finished bore size". This is the cylinder size, at room temp, that the new ring will run aginist. Not the measurement of the cylinder before its honed. <br /><br />Run or wear tolerences are not the same as rebuild specs. Rebuild specs are not the same as remanufacturing or manufacturing specs. Manufacturing specs are not the same as blueprinting specs.<br /><br />Each cylinder has a life cycle measured in thousandths of an inch. Each time a hone passes through a cylinder, it removes metal which is wear.<br /><br />The dial bore gauge is what will determine what gets bored. Not what the cylinder looks like or what the piston looks like. <br /><br />Running quality -- if the cylinders are within spec, the motor will run perfectly whether its all bored the same or not. We've run, many times, a race motor that all but one cylinder cleaned up at .020. The other cylinder was taken to .030 or .040. The motors all turned the same rpm and ran the same speed at over 8000 rpm. And no, the motors were not blueprinted -- class rules did not allow that. They were built with "as produced" parts.
 

ob

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Re: V4 - Rebuild question

SoLittle,The reason that I suggested miching the remaining three before honing to insure their trueness was that if any honing is done it is usually after any machine work is necessary to restore concentricity.Honing is then the final process to restore crosshatch.It will neither remove any taper or true the cylinder wall.The "final" cylinder reading will of course be taken after all cylinders are honed.
 
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