Info on Johnson 20 Seahorse Motor.

tdalton

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Oct 3, 2003
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I have just been given a Johnson 20 Seahorse outboard motor. It has been stored in good conditions for many years and looks almost like new under the hood. The plate on the shaft has Model # 20R71S Ser # A84911. <br />I have no experience with outboards but intend to use this one if it can be made to run. I assume it is a four stroke motor but am not sure. There are 2 Champion spark plugs # J-4J if this is any help. <br />Can you help me identify the year and point me to any reading material I might be able to access. Also if it is a fourstroke motor will it run on unleaded petrol and what octane rating.
 

Joe Reeves

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Feb 24, 2002
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13,262
Re: Info on Johnson 20 Seahorse Motor.

You have a 1971 20hp Johnson which is a two (2) stroke engine. You may use the 50/1 mixture (1pt 50/1 oil to 6gal gas). You may use 87 octane or higher unleaded fuel.<br /><br />The Champion J4J plugs have been superceeded to Champion J4C or J6C. The gap is to set to .030. The J6C is slightly hotter and might provide a smoother idle. Do not use any other heat range s/plug.
 

tdalton

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Oct 3, 2003
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Re: Info on Johnson 20 Seahorse Motor.

Joe, Many thanks for the usefull info.<br /><br />I have replaced the plugs with J6C's and mixed up a batch of fuel. Before I attempt to start the engine I feel I should replace the gear oil at the base of the shaft as I do not know how long it has been since the engine was last started. What oil is recommended? <br /><br />Next to the choke control on the front panel is a mixture control with 'Rich' and 'Lean' at the extremities of rotation. I am not familiar with this control and how it interacts with the choke control. Can you take me thru the startup sequence and how these controls should be set.<br /><br />Lastly next to the mixture control is a 'Stop' button and on the throttle twist grip there is a position also marked 'Stop'. When would you use these.
 

Joe Reeves

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Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: Info on Johnson 20 Seahorse Motor.

Use what is called "HiVis" (80/90w) which is available at Wal*Mart, K-Mart etc at a reasonable price. Of course it is also available at your local dealership but at a slightly higher price.<br /><br />DO NOT remopve the "Philips Screw" that might be located in the skeg of the lower unit. That philips screw is a long shoulder type screw which is a pivot point for the internal shift lever. The drain/fill and vent screws are the large regular slotted screws. Fell the unit "From The Bottom" until the oil flows out of the upper vent hole.<br /><br />The rich and lean linkage can be disconnected at the carburetor slow speed needle valve momentarily in order to adjust the carburetor properly, as follows. If this adjustment fails to correct any possible carb problem, you'll need to clean the carb. This adjustment controls the actual fuel flow through the carburetor and has nothing to do with the choke opperation.<br /><br />----------<br />(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)<br />(J. Reeves)<br /><br />Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.<br /><br />Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.<br /> <br />Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting. <br /><br />When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.<br />----------<br /><br />The fast/slow/stop indicators on the twist grip are simply for reference (which way is fast etc). Ignore them.<br /><br />Start sequence: Engine in neutral, pump primer bult until it's hard (check for leaks), pull out choke, turn tiller (throttle) handle towards fast until it stops (there's a stop on the mag plate that when in neutral, it will not allow the throttle to obtain the full throttle position), crank the engine.<br /><br />When it starts, push in the choke so that the engine doesn't flood out.
 
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