couple (3 really) of johnson questions

[brokeboater]

New to me 1999 200 johnson. I've not actually run it other than still on trailer and backed in water at ramp for testing purposes. <br />1. leaks gas out of 2 carbs. Is coming out of small hole just below the throat of 2 carbs. Doesn't have be tilted up either. <br />2.I also can't get it to idle properly. Even after it warms up it still idles up and down between 900 and 1200. Much to fast to be shifting in gear. <br />3. Oil line is disconnected and plugged on VRO unit but all wiring is still connected. With the oil tank empty I am getting the "low oil" warning and light as I should (running on pre-mix shop tank). Shouldn't I be getting a no oil warning too? Thanks in advance, Mitch

 

[DJ]

Re: couple (3 really) of johnson questions

brokeboater,<br /><br />You are in need of carb overhauls. It's simple, with a manual, to guide you. <br /><br />Look here.<br /><br /> http://www.outboardrepairs.com/manuals/ <br /><br />You can disconnect the VRO wires.

 

[brokeboater]

Re: couple (3 really) of johnson questions

thanks for the reply. i plan to keep the vro intact. i was trying to determine if all the warning bells and whistles were working properly. i should have stated that in my post. <br /><br />a manual is on the horizon. <br /><br />are there any fuel/air mixtures to deal with when rebuilding these carbs? i rebuilt the carbs on an old v6 merc and they were very simple.

 

[DJ]

Re: couple (3 really) of johnson questions

brokeboater,<br /><br />I'm sure that many of the same principles will apply, as far as your carbs go.<br /><br />You can "check out" the VRO, by doing the following.<br /><br />1. Empty the tank.<br /><br />2. Refill with good quality TCW-3 oil.<br /><br />3. Hook everything up using genuine John/Rude hose clamps. THERE IS A DIFFERENCE.<br /><br />4. Mix your fuel tank to 50:1.<br /><br />5. Mark a line on the VRO tank to check if you are actually using oil. If so, your golden, go with the VRO.

 

[Hooty]

Re: couple (3 really) of johnson questions

The Johnson carbs are pretty simple and straight forward to. If you're gonna do the work, a manual is real helpful. I'm not sure about the warning horn(s) and no oil in the tank. The manual should help you out with that to. When you switch over to the VRO, keep running the engine on the premix tank until you're sure the VRO is oiling. Mark the oil level on the outside of the tank and be sure the level drops accordingly.<br /><br />c/6<br />Hooty

 

[seahorse5]

Re: couple (3 really) of johnson questions

Order the factory service manual from a dealer. It gives step by step testing, servicing, and cleaning carbs, the VRO system, and the rest of the engine in detailed form.<br /><br />Fuel leaking from the carbs means debris or gummed fuel deposits are holding the float valves open causing them to flood. Be sure to use factory repair kits for best results.

 

[seahorse5]

Re: couple (3 really) of johnson questions

I forgot to add in the previous post: Trace the wires from the oil tank to where they connect inside the motor cover, then disconnect them to "kill" the low oil alarm, since you are premixing your fuel. Make sure the 4 wire plug from the VRO is disconnected also.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: couple (3 really) of johnson questions

hello<br /> yep what they all said. If you wish to keep the vro then why is it plugged? did someone suspect a problem? makes me nervous when a customer shows up with his new "good Deal" motor and I have to tell him how much his deal will cost to repair. just because the low tank alarm is sounding does not mean the oil pump has no oil. sometimes it will take 4 to 5 minutes to run the oil out of the pump. follow the pump testing procedure in the service manual and life will be good.<br /> always remember to premix anytime any oil system is being tested.<br /> good luck and keep posting

 

[brokeboater]

Re: couple (3 really) of johnson questions

thanks all for the replies. <br /><br />rodbolt, the vro is plugged because I plugged it to run the engine before I got around to hooking the tank up. <br /><br />this engine is replacing an old one i removed an I have been working on it a little at a time when I get the chance. I cleaned the tank and screen out and also had to replace the hose to make it longer. i thought it would be a good time to check the warning system out by leaving the electrical part hooked up but having (and knowing) there was no oil in the tank. the "low oil" part works based on there is a low oil condition (i haven't refilled the tank yet, but did hook up the sender for the tank). however i am wondering if i should be getting a "no oil" also due to the vro is electrically still connected, but oil inlet is plugged. it may be that it is supposed to only give the low oil warning. maybe the manual will address my situation.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: couple (3 really) of johnson questions

The following may be of interest to you.<br /><br />(VRO Changeover Judgement Call) <br />(J. Reeves)<br /> <br /> The VROs first came out in 1984 and have been upgraded quite a few times. In my opinion, back around 1988, they had perfected them but I think that they were upgraded even more since then. As long as the warning system is operating as it should, I feel quite at ease with them.<br /><br />Some boaters have voiced their thoughts such as "What if that overpriced plastic horn should fail while I'm under way for some reason, and the VRO decides to fail five minutes later?" Obviously that would result in a big problem which really brings their fears into view.<br /><br />The word "ease" is the key word though. If one has the slightest feeling of being ill at ease with that setup, then they should take the route they feel more at ease with. A judgement call each individual would need to make on their own.<br /><br />********************<br />(VRO Pump Conversion To Straight Fuel Pump)<br />(J. Reeves)<br /><br />You can convert the VRO pump into a straight fuel pump, eliminating the oil tank and VRO pump warning system, but retain the overheat warning setup by doing the following:<br /><br />1 - Cut and plug the oil line at the engine so that the oil side of the VRO pump will not draw air into its system. Trace the wires from the back of the VRO to its rubber plug (electrical plug) and disconnect it.<br /><br />2 - Trace the two wires from the oil tank to the engine, disconnect those two wires, then remove them and the oil tank.<br /><br />3 - Mix the 50/1 oil in the proper amount with whatever quanity fuel you have. Disconnect the fuel line at the engine. Pump the fuel primer bulb until fuel exits that hose with the tint of whatever oil you used. Reconnect the fuel hose.<br /><br />That's it. If you want to test the heat warning system to ease your mind, have the key in the on position, then ground out the tan heat sensor wire that you'll find protruding from the cylinder head. The warning horn should sound off.

 

[brokeboater]

Re: couple (3 really) of johnson questions

thanks for that post joe. it should be standard issue for all the "should i and how do i disable my vro".<br /><br />got the manual. looks like i can probably handle the cleaning of the carbs.