After rebuild, crank won't turn

[GeeFrankk]

1993 120hp VRO Evinrude, trying to help a friend in need, no compression on #2 piston, removed powerhead, found #2 piston/rings scorched. Rehoned bore, replaced piston and rings, checked others and they were fine. Put it back together, torqued bolts to mfg. spects. After installing flywheel, tried turning crank, wouldn't budge, tore it back down, checked all bolts in right holes, put it back together, crank won't turn. Now what?

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: After rebuild, crank won't turn

Hi Gee,<br /> I believe there are several alignment dowls in the motor block along the crankshaft centerline that go into mating holes in the crank main bearings. If any one of these is mis-aligned it'll bind things up.<br /> BEFORE placing the crankcase face on, try turning the crankshaft over by hand, while pushing down on the center main to keep it from popping up. Should turn fairly easily.<br /> Also, make sure all pistons are in correctly - a reverse piston may hit the cylinder head.<br />- Scott

 

[JB]

Re: After rebuild, crank won't turn

Moving to JohnnyRude Troubles.

 

[Dhadley]

Re: After rebuild, crank won't turn

Lets start at the begining. After the pistons are installed and you drop the crank in, as Chinewalker says, the center bearing must be in alignment with the dowel pin. At this point the crank will spin free (if you move the rods) right?<br /><br />Then you hook up each rod one by one. As you hook up the first two rods, you must turn the crank to get the other two in line. It still turns over freely, right?<br /><br />Each rod cap must go back on the rod it came off of and be in the right direction. They didn't get mixed up or turned over did they?<br /><br />When all 4 are hooked up you start the top and bottom bearing cap bolts before you put the crankcase cover on. They should line up and start in with your fingers. Do they?