1957 10hp Johnson sea horse oil mix?

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rook

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I have just aquired a 1957 10hp Johnson sea horse, I am unsure on the oil/fuel mixture ratio, can anyone help me out on this? Also any other info on this vintage engine would be greatly appreciated!!!<br /><br />Thanks alot,<br /><br />Sean.
 
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Paul Moir

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Re: 1957 10hp Johnson sea horse oil mix?

Welcome to Iboats, sgd! And welcome to the world of old Johnny/Rudes too. :) <br /><br />Johnson Model QD-18 (Make sure this is your model no.)<br />Year 1957<br />HP 10<br />WOT RPMS 4000<br />Displacement 16.6 cu.in. = 272.0 ccm<br />Cylinders 2<br />Weight 74 lbs. = 33.6 Kg<br />Gear ratio 15:26<br />Fuel Mix: 24:1 87 Octane gas to TCW-3 outboard oil<br />Spark plugs: Champion J4C (was J4J) gapped at .030"<br />Connecting Rods: Drop Forged Steel<br />Bearings: Roller<br /><br />Although your engine has roller bearings at both ends of the connecting rod, they redesigned those bearings in '61 before going to 50:1, so stick with 24:1 mix. Synthetic oil helps with the smoke if you find it too smokey. If you find your spark plugs are fouling during low speed operation, try the hotter J6C.<br /> The Old OMC Site
 
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rook

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Re: 1957 10hp Johnson sea horse oil mix?

Thanks Paul, I appriciate all the information it helps out alot!!!<br /><br />Sean
 
Chinewalker

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Re: 1957 10hp Johnson sea horse oil mix?

Hi Paul,<br /> Actually, the 10hp didn't receive needles on the wrist-pin end of the conrod until very late in the model run. The '57 still has a bronze babbit bearing on the wristpin end and center main. The 24:1 is critical for these old 10s. <br /> A good decarboning works wonders on those older motors that run the heavy oil ratios as there is generally a lot of build-up in the ring grooves and exhaust passages...<br />- Scott
 
JB

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Re: 1957 10hp Johnson sea horse oil mix?

To add to Paul's and Scott's excellent posts:<br /><br />Points are set at .020"<br /><br />If you experience plug fouling, try the J4Cs gapped at .040" before you go to the J6Cs.<br /><br />Happy JohnnyRuding! :)
 
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Paul Moir

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Re: 1957 10hp Johnson sea horse oil mix?

Good point JB on the J4C gap.<br /><br />Chinewalker - I just took that from the catalog. I should know better then to trust them. :) <br />1957:<br />
Connecting Rods: Lightwin Phosphor Bronze; Fisherman and Fleetwin, silver plated bearings. Steel roller bearings on Sportwin, Fastwin, Bigtwin and Lark.
Click to expand...
1961:<br />
New improved assembly of wrist pin needle bearings has been incorperated in all motors from 10 through 75hp.
Click to expand...
I should have known that the "improvement" of the "wrist pin needle bearing" was that it was made into a needle bearing. :D <br />There's the omission about the center main too...
 
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rook

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Re: 1957 10hp Johnson sea horse oil mix?

Hey guys I just checked the model no. on this outboard it is a QD-19 not QD-18, does this make a difference in the the info you've provided? I appreciate all your input. Thaks<br /><br />Sean
 
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Paul Moir

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Re: 1957 10hp Johnson sea horse oil mix?

It's a '58.<br /><br />No change on the info above. Except it's 67 lbs.<br /><br /> And you get a picture.<br /> Catalog.<br /><br />PS - it's good you know that. The water pump impeller is different in '58 than '57.
 
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rook

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Re: 1957 10hp Johnson sea horse oil mix?

Thanks alot Paul. JB sorry about duplicating my post.
 
Chinewalker

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Re: 1957 10hp Johnson sea horse oil mix?

Hi Paul,<br /> Yeah, you never can trust those copy editors who put together the brochures :p <br /> I do know that there were some changes to the bronze bearings in the 10s, even before they were upgraded to steel. I'm not sure where the switchover was, but they put a wider bearing on the wrist pin end in between the '54 QD I had apart and the '59 I had apart. I'm guessing this was to cut down on rod movement and to give the bearing more surface area for support. I've had lots of these that were weaned on 50:1 and they develop considerable rod knock as that bearing wears....<br />- Scott
 
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rook

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Re: 1957 10hp Johnson sea horse oil mix?

Chinewalker, you mentioned in your first post about decarboning the engine, is there a way of doing this without a complete tear down, just curious?<br /><br />Sean
 
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Paul Moir

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Re: 1957 10hp Johnson sea horse oil mix?

sgd - Go to Napa Autoparts and get a can of Seafoam Deep Creep. It comes in a spray can. Start and warm your engine. The spray a bit down the carb's throat while the engine is reved _slightly_ in gear (~1500 RPM) to keep it from stalling. Repeat a couple times. Then spray down heavily, stalling the engine. Then remove spark plugs, and douse each cylinder down well. Wait a few hours and then start and warm up the engine. <br />The engine will be very smokey. Once the smoke clears, it's a good time to replace your spark plugs. Decarbing is pretty hard on them. You may want to use old ones for this. Look at the nice clean piston tops down the plug holes, or repeat. :) <br /><br />Some of these old engines are used to being run with 30W oil rather than TCW-3, or slow, and have loads of carbon built up. You almost always see an improvement. Or at least a lot of black stuff!<br /><br />I hope this helps!<br /><br />PS - Good to see another Hip fan out there Chinewalker!
 
Chinewalker

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Re: 1957 10hp Johnson sea horse oil mix?

Hi Paul,<br /> Yessiree! I've been a Hip fan since shortly after the local K-town stations began playing them in the late 1980s. I'm about 25-miles (as the crow flies) from Kingston, ONT. I've seen them live three times (so far!). <br /> "I was born in the water and raised up in the sky...."<br />- Scott - an American fan of Canada's biggest band...
 
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whitenoize

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Re: 1957 10hp Johnson sea horse oil mix?

Quote:Some of these old engines are used to being run with 30W oil rather than TCW-3, or slow, and have loads of carbon built up. You almost always see an improvement.<br />Paul, am i understanding you correctly that some 57 10hp motors ran on a gas/Motor oil mix??I am getting one in a few weeks and wasnt sure.TCW-3 should be ok wouldnt you think?
 
Chinewalker

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Re: 1957 10hp Johnson sea horse oil mix?

Hi Whitenoize,<br /> Back in 1957 the dedicated outboard oils weren't much more than slightly thinned 30wt motor oil. Most of them actually said right on the operating instructions decal to mix with 30wt. As such they really didn't burn all that cleanly and left lots of deposits behind. A decarb helps remove that gunk from the ring grooves, domes and ports. Newer TCW3 rated oils are much better for the old motors, BUT it is recommended that you stick with the original oil mixture ratios. They still need the volume in the mix to help seal the bearing areas as many of these old motors didn't have seals and relied on the oil film between steel and bronze to seal.<br />- Scott
 
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