1961 75hp V4AL 13F question

[jdoenumber2]

Bare with me here i am as new to outboard motors as you can get. This may be a bit long winded but here i go!<br />Johnson 1961 75HP V4AL 13 F<br />#1 What is the necessicery preventive maintance required to keep this motor running strong? <br />#2 Is there any thing on this unit that needs to be greased or oiled to prevent future problems? <br />#3 Is it normal to see oil leak out of the lower unit in two small pinholes; one located on the side and the other located on the underside just above the prop? <br />#4 What does choke on, choke off, and automatic mean? <br />#5 How do i propperly adjust the carb with thoes two identical brass thumb screws located on the front of the carb? <br />#6 There is a rod that can be removed the reinserted to adjust the angle of the motor aginst the transome, why are they there, furthermore what can i expect if i try to move it to another position? <br />#7 I need to purchase a battery for my boat what is recomended, either a starting battery or a deep cycle? <br />#8 If i want to hook up a simple car stereo up to my boat will i need a dedicated battery? <br />I am sure i will be asking more questions later. Any other tips would be greatlly appreciated. I would like to thank any reply in advanced. And i look foward to being a long term member at this site!!!

 

[jimmbo]

Re: 1961 75hp V4AL 13F question

Answers<br />#1 Correct oil(TC-W3) and proper gas/oil mix(24:1), greasing of linkages, fittings and propshaft, proper preparation of engine for winter storage. Regular ignition maintance(points and plugs). Regular use of engine cleaner.<br />#2 covered in #1<br />#3 No. Oil leaking out means water getting in. Watercooled gears are not good<br />#4 means exactly what it says<br />#5 depends if they are for high or low speed.<br />#6 That adjusts the angle of thrust. Too far in causes boat to plow, too far out can cause boat to handle poorly, cavitate, and porpose. Ideal angle would have thrust line paralell to the water surface(at full power)<br />#7 If it to start the motor, buy a cranking battery, if it for an electic trolling motor get a deep cycle<br />#8 no

 

[Lost in Johnson Land]

Re: 1961 75hp V4AL 13F question

hey i have the same motor and i just started working on it a couple months ago. i was told 50:1 fuel mix was ok because that motor has needle bearings and roller bearings.as far as the choke goes choke on to start it then move it to off, i was told not to use the automatic setting. the two screws toward the top of the carb are the idle mixture adjustment, rough adjustment is to turn them in until they gently seat (do not force them) then back out 1 1/2 turns, then while it is running at idle turn one screw at a time clockwise a quarter turn and wait about 15-20 seconds for it to settle and keep repeating until you hear the motor cough then back it out 1/8 turn. thats about all i can help you with, mine has a charging system problem and a rough idle that i am dealing with. by the way i would kill to be able to look at your control box under the transom i aint getting much help from the wiring diagrams.

 

[jdoenumber2]

Re: 1961 75hp V4AL 13F question

I will try to borrow my dad digital camera and take a few pics and email you with them.

 

[jdoenumber2]

Re: 1961 75hp V4AL 13F question

I was told by the guy who sold me the boat that he was told that the lower unit leaking in my boat is nothing to worry about. How true that is i dont know. Does anyone know how i can fill up oil in the lower unit?????? Yeah I Know Buy a service manual. That is soon to come.

 

[jimmbo]

Re: 1961 75hp V4AL 13F question

Of course he told you that, he wanted you to buy it.<br />There are two screws, they look alike, big slot about 1/2 inch dia, one at the bottom near the skeg and the other above the ventilation plate. The lower one is the drain/fill hole and oil is pumped in untill it comes ou thet top hole

 

[jdoenumber2]

Re: 1961 75hp V4AL 13F question

what kind of oil????

 

[Evinrude Boater]

Re: 1961 75hp V4AL 13F question

jdoenumber2,<br />My Clymer manual indicates 24:1 for 1956-1963 and 50:1 for 1964 and later. Don't use just any 2-stroke oil, use outboard marine oil with the TC-W3 rating.<br />The oil coming out of the holes you indicated may just be unburnt fuel running down the exhaust but you need to check the lower gear oil since your seller admitted a leak. Slowly remove the lower drain/fill plug and observe what comes out. If it's milky oil, you've got water in the gears. If it sits for an extended period the water will drop to the bottom and drain first. That's bad especially in NY where it can freeze and crack the case. The original gear case lubricant is OMC Premium Blend Gearcase Lubricant Part No. 172820. Make sure you get a gear lube for marine use. It will take a little bit more than a half a quart.<br />If you have water in the gear case there's a number of entry points, prop shaft seal, drive shaft seal, shift rod O-ring, split lower case O-ring or a cracked case. You need to take the lower unit off the exhaust housing and pressure and vacuum test it to find the leak. There's two sets of 8 bolts to drop the lower unit. Remove the lower set that's just above the anti-cavitation plate. If it's manual shift you need to open the small covers (one inside the other) on the left side and remove the shift rod clamp bolt. Don't drop it inside. With the 8 bolts removed and the shift rod detached the lower unit should drop off. Insert a fitting into the filler hole and pump air while dunking in a tank. Don't apply more than 18psi or 15 in. Hg vacuum. Evinrude changed the drive shaft seal from a single seal to two seals. This is a problem because the water pump can force water into the gear case. Let me know if yours leaks at the vertical drive shaft and I can give you more information. If it does you'll be pulling the water pump so you might as well look at replacing that too while you're down there. Order the "kit" it has everything you need and is cheaper than buying parts separately.<br />You really need to get a manual to save some grief. The ISBN number for the Clymer manual is 0-89287-413-9. I got mine for $40 Canadian from Chapters online. That's less than an hour of labor charge.<br />Lost In Johnson Land, what motor do you have and does it have a belt driven generator? What are you looking for in the junction box? I have some diagrams in my manual that I can scan for you.<br />Now, if someone can help me with my 75hp V4 that won't start after it warms up. Top spark plugs are wet and bottom are dry, hummmm? Points maybe?

 

[Lost in Johnson Land]

Re: 1961 75hp V4AL 13F question

Classicboater, i have the same motor V4AL-13F, i wanted to see the control box to look at that little ceramic fuse mounted to the rectifier, it was blown on mine and i wired in an inline fuse and my charging system does'nt work.my motor is battery ignition , no magneto no generator has the stator under the flywheel. now if yours has a coil i would say that might be the problem they are notorious for working when cold and quitting when they get hot but if you have a magneto then i am not sure but you are probably on the right track looking at the points or maybe the wire going to the second set of points is broken or a bad connection.

 

[Evinrude Boater]

Re: 1961 75hp V4AL 13F question

Lost in Johnson Land, my motor has the generator on the left side that is inoperative since the missing belt is obsolete. I'll look at my control box and try to send off a photo to you. It would be easier for me to send it to you via e-mail. Do you want to provide you e-mail address in your profile?

 

[jdoenumber2]

Re: 1961 75hp V4AL 13F question

I will Be sure to try Filling the oil. By the way the leak only leaks for about 2 hours after i take the boat out of the water from running it. Another issue that i do have is that it seems that i am only getting about one mile to a gallon. I know that old motors are thirsty but does this sound right.

 

[Evinrude Boater]

Re: 1961 75hp V4AL 13F question

Lost in Johnson Land,<br />Took some photos of my junction box. They're posted in my Yahoo Photos site at http://photos.yahoo.com/dare2bdreamin. Let me know if the link doesn't work and I can send an invitation link to your e-mail.

 

[jdoenumber2]

Re: 1961 75hp V4AL 13F question

Classic thank you very much. That orginal oil was from exhaust. I do have milky oil in the lower unit. if i am careful can i use the boat for a couple of months till its time to put it up. I would regularlly change the oil and use it mabey twice a week. You guys are very helpful thanks agian

 

[jdoenumber2]

Re: 1961 75hp V4AL 13F question

Another couple of questions. What Plugs, cap, rotor, points do i need? What kind of prop do i use?

 

[Evinrude Boater]

Re: 1961 75hp V4AL 13F question

jdoenumber2, whether the oil is from the gear case or from unburnt fuel, it will come out the exhaust assuming your gear case leak is internal (not propeller shaft seal). The exhaust housing is just an opening from the water right up to the bottom of the power head.<br />If you've got water in the gear oil I'd be reluctant to say go ahead and use it in case something happens. My boat was used for God knows how long by the previous owner(s) with water in the gear case. When I emptied it there was maybe enough oil and water to fill a single serving yogurt cup. I tore the gear case down and inspected the gears and shafts and there was no damage except a cracked case. If you choose to keep running with a leak you just don't know when you have more water than oil in the gears. <br />The original plugs are Champion J4J which are superseded by J6C gapped at 0.030. There are different ignition systems used on motors of that era. I don't know if the 75hp was built with anything different from mine. I have a distributor magneto. Some flywheels have a stator to charge the battery. My flywheel has no electrical components. The battery is charged by an external generator and the spark power comes from the magneto inside the distributor.The distributor is on the back of the engine driven by a toothed belt, which I broke today. There goes another $80. Pull the belt off before trying to loosen or tighten the distributor pully nut!The cap is on the bottom of the distributor held on with four screws. Stuff a rag under the distributor in case you drop anything it doesn't go down the exhaust housing. The rotor is a wide contact type, not the smaller 1/4" wide type. There's two sets of points inside the pully on top of the distributor. Three small screws hold the pully cover on. Take that off and you'll see the access window for setting the point gap. There's one condensor with the points and one coil up inside the bottom of the distributor. I priced this stuff today and in Canadian dollars they are Rotor $25, Points $22 each, Condensor $6 and Coil $100. What they call a tune-up kit consisting of points and a condensor is $50. No savings really.<br />I think I have an original prop but it's too dark to check now. I'll post the pitch and size on Sunday.<br />Looking back at some of your posts it makes me think you're running rich or flooding a bit to use so much gas and have oil dripping out. You're enquiring about ignition parts now too. How do your plugs look? They will tell a lot about the performance of your engine. If they're wet you may have a carburator problem.<br />The oil you see after you pull the boat from the water will drain out as it runs down the exhaust housing and out the small drain holes and on top of the prop. Remember, oil floats on top of water so it gets trapped inside the exhaust housing until you raise the motor out of the water. Not a nice scene at the dock.<br />Have you got a manual yet?

 

[jdoenumber2]

Re: 1961 75hp V4AL 13F question

Which service manual is the best for my motor????

 

[alcan]

Re: 1961 75hp V4AL 13F question

The first one you can get your hands on.

 

[Evinrude Boater]

Re: 1961 75hp V4AL 13F question

jdoenumber2, my prop is a 10x9 1/4. I think it's original.<br />See my previous post regarding the Clymer manual. Whether it's Clymer, Seloc or something else, they're probably about the same. I can't say I've compared. Some of the on-line book stores print reader ratings. That's how I picked Clymer.

 

[jimmbo]

Re: 1961 75hp V4AL 13F question

The stock prop on those old V4s was usually 10 1/4<br /> x 10.

 

[jdoenumber2]

Re: 1961 75hp V4AL 13F question

What does everybody think of the propulse composite prop???