rdoerr3434
Recruit
- Joined
- Aug 29, 2004
- Messages
- 5
I have a 50 hp 1998 Evinrude with manual tilt. It doesn't release in the tilt position. Can any one tell me how to fix, adjust, etc.<br /><br />Thanks
Originally posted by Gil009:<br /> Ya gotta love those manuals. The connector you speak of is called for some reason a "shell connector". It snaps on over the ball. Very tight fit. It has one side that is flatter than the other. This is the side that I snap on over the ball. I usually just press in on with much painful pressure from an index finger. You will have to use enough pressure til the point you fear it might break... then it snaps on or off depending on which way you go.<br /><br />Question. With your lever in the down position or tilt... (I think) do you get any downward movement at all? (assuming it is in the up position)<br /><br />If unit appears frozen and cable "wiggles" some as you rotate lever.... it might be the adjustment out of whack. Fairly easy fix, rather awkward to explain.<br /><br />To test the gas assisted "non-repairable" (approx $400) cylinder, remove the black plastic nut at the bottom of the cable. By remove I mean unscrew it and lift it up the cable out of the way. You will now see where the cable actually hooks into the Stainless steel reservoir. Being careful not to put your hand or hands anywhere they might get pinched from sudden dropping of engine.... pry upward on the top edge of the reservoir. Don't mess up the threads. Use a flat bladed screwdriver fairly thin. Insert it just above the threads and you will see the assembly tilt slightly upward causing the pressure (if tilted enough) to release and allow the engine to begin to drop. Slowly if you tilt small amount. Faster if you pry/tilt more. (Don't allow it to drop much as it will impede your view and access to the upper shell connector which you will have to remove.) If this works, you have a good cylinder that isn't frozen. This is good news. Now you can attempt the adjustment.<br /><br />Pry on the assembly again and with a friend to help lift the engine to max up position and then release the assembly. It should now stay put all the way up.<br /><br />Pry the connector off the ball. Use a flat blade of some sort. If this cable is old...it may be brittle and break. (just the clam shell which screws onto the cable) Don't worry, you haven't ruined the cable. You will have to order a shell connector. They are common and are used for the engine throttle cables ect. Pick up one at the dealer just in case if you have the opportunity. <br /><br />If you successfully removed it and pulled it free, now think about the direction of the lever and the motion you know understand is needed to pull that assembly upward to release the pressure. Thread the shell connector on the cable further or less to check the amount of release you get. Once you reassemble it, route it carefully out of the way and attempt to lower the engine. If it is slow.... it will be difficult to raise. It needs more adjustment. Try again. The relationship of the "drop and the difficulty or ease of raising the engine is inversely related.. Faster down, means less lifting on the engine to raise it. Believe me it gets old, if its too slow and heavy. Don't settle for slow and heavy. Keep adjusting. <br /><br />I hope all this isn't confusing... its clear to me because I have done it several times. Ask me to clarify anything you don't quite understand. Remember, there is no adjustment where the lower end of the cable is "hooked" into the reservoir assembly. Just tighten down the black plastic nut. It should have an o ring in there to keep water out. I alway lube this area profusely with Corrosion Blocker when in salt water.<br /><br />Enough for now. Let me know if its clear as mud and we can go from there. Power trim and tilt is much more appreciated by guys without it...right?
Originally posted by Gil009:<br /> I'm not quite clear on your description. There is no bolt removal involved. You can't adjust or repair the actual gas cylinder itself. It is a replace only item. If you replaced the cable and its still a bear to lift, then the cable probably needs adjusting and the gas assist cylinder is actually working against you. When you say bolt, do you mean the black plastic nut? The rod you mention is where the lower cable hooks into the reservoir, right? It should take some effort to tilt the rod/mechanism and you should be able to lift the engine at that point if you have tilted or lifted the base enough. If you tilt it enough the engine will almost float up or slide down fairly quickly. Then cylinder is good if this happens. Try it again with help and prove this out. Then adjust the upper cable end as described above. I lived with the same scenario you described for several months, because I was too busy fishing to bother. But when I did get around to it.... wow what a difference. Night and day.