Impeller

[OBJ]

Is it the one under the trim tab or the one with the 5/8 head just forward of the trim tab? Which ever one it is, it's going to be hard getting the heat to where it's supposed to go. You may just end up breaking it off and dealing with it after the lower unit is off. It's going to be hard to get some penetrating oil into it. You could center punch the bolt head and drill a series of pilot holes into the bolt head until the head falls off. This would leave you with a "stud" to work with once the lower unit is off.

 

[SkipMoss]

Impeller

1972 65 Hspr. Evinrude. Having a hard time removing the bolt on the boot above the propellor in order to begin the process of changing the water pump. Motor is still on the boat out of the water. Would heat work or is there some other solution.<br /> Thanks<br /> Skip

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Impeller

hello<br />heat, heat and more heat. even with the head missing normally the bolt shank is locked not the threads. propane aint hot enough. oxy/acetylene is .<br /> occasionally I have to saw down the parting line and saw the bolt in two.

 

[SkipMoss]

Re: Impeller

Appreciate both ideas. Before giving them a shot, I'd like to get a good hold on the bolt and try to break it loose. The problem is the motor moves as your working on it, and you can't apply enough pressure to the bolt to accomplish anything. Any thoughts as to how to get the motor stable enough to apply the pressure.<br /> Thanks<br /> Skip

 

[Dhadley]

Re: Impeller

Let the motor go to one side. It cant go any further.

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: Impeller

Dhadley, or Rodbolt! This is just a thought, but something I would try if that bolt won't let go. That bolt set's in a deep recess. What if you were to take a deep 5/8 socket, and press in a bushing with a 5/16 hole through it. This would give you about a 3 inch long drill bushing to keep the drill going dead straight down the shank of the bolt. I would use a 5/16 masonry, or cement drill for the first cut, as this drill has carbide cutting lip's, and can be bought for a few dollars. The reason I would use this drill first is because those stainless bolts seem to get brittle from corrosion, and can be tough to drill. If you let the drill spin without cutting, it work harden's the surface, and just makes things worse.For the socket, I would use the cheapist one I could buy. I know for me this sounds simple, because a have quite a good machine shop in my garage, but if there is no hurry this time of the year, I will be able to make him one. What are your thought's on this.

 

[umblecumbuz]

Re: Impeller

You'd need to pick your masonry bit with care.<br /><br />Having tried the 'masonry bit' dodge in the past, it hasn't worked for me. Many masonry bits have shallower attack angles than high speed steel bits, and don't take kindly to cutting into brittle steel. Even soft steel puts up a hard fight against a masonry bit - not because of its tungsten tip, which is very tough, but because the two angles on which the tip is cut are wrong for steel. You could end up with a worse mess than you started with.<br /><br />Apart from that reservation, the principle behind RJ's post sounds like a good idea. Anything that can give a firm 'guide' to a drill there has got to be good.

 

[BoatBuoy]

Re: Impeller

If you can get a socket on it, impact wrench?

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Impeller

BoatBouy has the best "initial" solution. You would be wise to rent or borrow an aircompressor and air impact wrench for this job. You won't have a problem with the engine moving on you either. If it still won't budge, then get physical.

 

[xikxak]

Re: Impeller

For hotter than propane someone recommended MAPP gas.at home depot with propane cylinders.anyone familiar with this product? thanks

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: Impeller

Yup.<br />Much better than propane, and you can usually run it in a normal propane torch head. But the heads that start the combustion inside them work better with it (ie, the type where the end glows after you use them a bit).<br />I use Propylene - a component of MAPP - rather than MAPP itself, but it's pretty much the same thing. Saves the expense of running an oxy-acetylene rig at only moderatly reduced heat. Propane itself is pretty useless on larger castings.