Need help quick!

[8up]

I, going through the process of pulling my gearcase. The motor is off the boat. The question is, which direction does the linkage go for placing the engine in reverse? I assume the linkage is pulled forward (towards the carbs).<br />Oh yeah 85 140 hp. <br />thanks<br /><br />I went down to continue while waiting for a response and came up with another question. My manual says after shifting to reverse, remove the shift rod retaining clip. It shows a crappy drawing, looks like a hitch pin. I don't see such an animal, I see where the shift rod comes up from the bottom. What are they reffering to.?<br />Thanks again.

 

[OBJ]

Re: Need help quick!

What ya' wanna' do is push the little lever the shift cable is connected to toward the rear of the engine. Flip the prop around while doing this.<br /><br />It's a lot easier to get to the shift rod pin if the lower engine pan is removed. Four or five screws hold it together. (trust me on this)<br /><br />From the port side of the engine, look under the lower carb and to the rear and you will see a triangular piece that the shift rod goes into. It's (the shift rod) held in place by the shift rod pin that just screws out of that triangular piece freeing the shift rod.<br /><br />Then the lower unit will drop off.

 

[8up]

Re: Need help quick!

Just so I understand this correctly, The shift rod comes up from the lower end, remove the screw(from the port side)that connects the shift rod to the "clamp" that holds the 3/8" round arm with 90 degree bent leading out to the stbd side? This screw has a hex and a slot in it? I'm glad I asked about the direction for FWD/REV I had it the wrong way. What is the purpose of dissconnecting the shift rod?<br /><br />Thanks again.

 

[ob]

Re: Need help quick!

Because the shift rod will lower down with the lower unit along with the driveshaft.It'll be clear as day when you get the rod disconnected.Just make sure to leave two bolts made up a few threads on the lower unit flange cause when you disconnect the shift rod it can suddenly drop.

 

[8up]

Re: Need help quick!

Well, <br />Thanks for the help on the gearcase. I bought the water pump kit today. I assembled the water pump onto the gearcase. I have a couple questions about that. 1st, the plastic water pump hosinig doesn't appear to make contact with the metal plate under it, should it? 2nd, how tight sould the impeller feel, it takes quite a bit of a$$ to turn the drive shaft. I feel pretty confident that I assembled it correctly.<br /><br />Thanks again

 

[ob]

Re: Need help quick!

The pump housing should have an 'o'ring groove on the bottom side that should make contact with the wear plate when tightened down.There may be some minimal clearance between the surfaces due to floating on the 'o' ring.I'm assuming the kit is a factory one.You will feel considerable resistance turning the shaft by hand once installed because of the type of impeller,but you want to make sure what you're feeling is not interference between the housing and impeller.Try removing and see if the impeller will fit into the housing without sticking up past the seal surface of the housing.

 

[8up]

Re: Need help quick!

OB,<br /> Yes this is a factory kit. "You want to make sure what you're feeling is not interference between the housing and impeller." I'm not real clear on this. I placed a small bit of lube on the impeller blades to aid assembly, but none on the underside. I won't be able to get back to this job until Friday afternoon. I will remove it and see if the impeller sticks up past the housing. I torqued the screws to spec. Thanks.

 

[ob]

Re: Need help quick!

In other words,You don't want the housing pushing against the impeller when it's bolted down.The thrust clearance is close,just not in a bind.As long as the housing seal is making contact with the bolts tightened and you can somewhat freely turn the shaft by hand ,you should be ok. <br /><br />By how much are you saying that the housing wasn't touching by ?

 

[8up]

Re: Need help quick!

If I had to guess I would say maybe 1/32"

 

[ob]

Re: Need help quick!

All I can say to do for peace of mind is to remove the housing bolts and slip a piece of paper between the seal surface and tighten down on a couple of the bolts and insure the paper won't slip out.Then loosen off the bolts ,remove the paper and rebolt the housing into place.This will at least assure you of a seal contact between the housing and plate.

 

[8up]

Re: Need help quick!

Sounds good OB, thanks for the help. Like I said I won't be able to get back to it until tomorrow afternoon, but I will keep you posted .<br /><br />Thanks a bunch

 

[OBJ]

Re: Need help quick!

You will want to watch that housing oring dosen't fall out and get trapped out of the housing groove. Use a gasket sealing compound to hold it in the groove during reassembly.

 

[ob]

Re: Need help quick!

OBJ makes an excellent point.The 'o'ring can easily slip out of the housing while installing if it's not adhered to the groove.If that's what you find,make sure it's not damaged where it won't seal from being pinched.

 

[8up]

Re: Need help quick!

Hey guys,<br /> Iv'e been working some odd hours this weekend so I haven't been able to work on this problem hot & heavy, but here's what Iv'e got. Iv'e visually checked out the old parts versus new parts, everything apears to be the same. Only diffence is the old water pump housing is black plastic and the new is kind of a natural/tan color. I removed the assembley and tried it again. This time I did not "lock" the impeller onto the shaft until after it was torqued down(so the impeller could be pushed down with the pump housing). This definitly solved the "hard to turn" issue I was having and allowed the face of the pump housing to pull closer to the base plate. I was still able to slide a .004 feeler guage under the assembly in spots. <br /><br /> The only thing that doesn't look right to me is that the steel pump insert doesn't quite go flush with the sealing surface of the pump housing (when installed the assembly seems to rest on the steel lip rather than the housing(?). Has anyone ever had an issue with this?<br /><br />Thanks,<br />Scott

 

[ob]

Re: Need help quick!

The impeller cup will stick up past the housing lip a few thousanths when installed.Just insure that when the 'o'ring is installed into the housing groove ,that the 'o' ring is higher and will make contact first when bolted down.If not ,you got a problem.Also insure that the impeller cup aligning and anti-rotation tabs are aligned with the recesses in the housing.The slight distance that the cup sticks up past the housing lip prevents over crushing of 'o' ring and helps to retain the cup to wear plate fit. <br /><br />Whether the impeller is key is installed or not should have no effect on the internal axial clearance,unless the key was longer that the impeller hub.

 

[8up]

Re: Need help quick!

Hey guys,<br /><br />I tried the paper trick tonight and it seemed to pull down just fine. I can't see the gap anymore either. Whatever was going on I don't know. Thanks so much for the help. <br /> I got ready to put the gearcase back on and was having a little trouble getting all the linages, tubes and shafts lined up. I ended up pushing out the shift linage gromet uo under the carbs, no biggie, went right back in. Anyway, on the way back out the last time, the piece for the exhaust with the gromet style seals fell out. The seals look kind of crapy. Should I replace those while I've got it tore down. I don't know what they cost or what the impact would be if they leaked.<br /> Any tips on reinstalling the lower gear case would be great.<br /><br />Thanks again,<br />Scott