1957 evinrude lightwin 3hp (3024)

[loupis]

Re: 1957 evinrude lightwin 3hp (3024)

RPJS,<br /><br />thanks, good idea but I already tried that and no luck.<br /><br />as far as the compression test, I used the finger technique - my neighbor is still digging up his tester. (but it did appear to be much stronger than before - I had to retap 2 of the bolt holes)<br />I'll post the results from a tester this evening. <br /><br />Thanks for all the help here!<br />loupis

 

[loupis]

Re: 1957 evinrude lightwin 3hp (3024)

The compression came in at 35psi +/- per cylinder<br /><br />Is that enough compression for it to work?

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1957 evinrude lightwin 3hp (3024)

I don't think so. The lowest I ever saw one run at was 55psi by my gauge. I suggest you remove the exhaust cover plate and prod at the rings with a plastic stick to see if they're stuck. I take it the head bolts are currently torqued to spec? (60-84 inch/lbs)

 

[loupis]

Re: 1957 evinrude lightwin 3hp (3024)

oops - i made a mistake and didn't pull the other plug - my bad.<br /><br />both cyls gave 60psi. Sorry about the bad beta

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1957 evinrude lightwin 3hp (3024)

Fewf - It'll run fine on that. I'm stumped for now...

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1957 evinrude lightwin 3hp (3024)

One idea - is the armature plate beneath the flywheel too loose? Do you still get good spark when the throttle is set half-way like when you're trying to start it? How about when the plug wires are bent?

 

[loupis]

Re: 1957 evinrude lightwin 3hp (3024)

good question. I'm not sure what you mean by too lose. It does turn real easy. I haven't checked the spark from different throttle locations though.<br /><br />The wires are new and i've tested the circut a couple of times with good results. <br /><br />Something tells me it's still an ignition problem but there is only so much to adjust with these old timers. It feels like i'm trying to start it with the switch off.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1957 evinrude lightwin 3hp (3024)

Hmm - you didn't use auto wires perhaps? They've been known to cause problems on these magneto systems but it should at least pop.<br /><br />If the armature plate is too loose the points won't hold their .020" adjustment. Meaning you'll get weak spark. It's just an idea.<br /><br />I agree - there's only so much to adjust. Spark timing can never really get that bad without loosing spark. The carb should be set so the butterfly shaft just begins to move when the cam follower is on the mark on the cam (the one attached to the armature plate). The carb should be set with 3/4 of a turn open for the high speed jet and 1 and 1/2 turns open for the low speed. Given all that, it ought to do something.

 

[loupis]

Re: 1957 evinrude lightwin 3hp (3024)

Man, I'm mystified. I bought the wires from the local omc.johnrude dealer - it's "certified" marine wire.<br /><br />I could check the armiture plate - tho i'm not taking it all apart tonight. Maybe manana tho.<br /><br />I set to 3/4 for the high speed and 1 1/2 for low just like the book said and i've got nothin - It doesn't make sense. Even a good fart from a cylinder would make me smile at this point

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1957 evinrude lightwin 3hp (3024)

If it's loose, then there's an easy fix:<br /> Joe Reeves' excellent Wobbly Armature Plate Fix. <br /><br />The problem with auto wire is from the small resistance you get from the carbon conductor they use. It's no problem with any metal core wire.<br /><br />Which exhaust gasket did you replace? The one behind the exhaust plate? (I'm grasping at straws with a blocked exhaust...)

 

[RPJS]

Re: 1957 evinrude lightwin 3hp (3024)

Hi loupis<br /><br />I've just read thru all of your posts, one thought springs to mind, when you re-strung the starter did you wind it the right way, is it possible that you are trying to start it backwards. In theory your motor should fire, you have the 3 fundimentals, compression,fuel and spark. By putting fuel straight into the cylinders the only variable is the spark timming.

 

[Xcusme]

Re: 1957 evinrude lightwin 3hp (3024)

With the pull rope wound backwards, it would't turn at all, would be my guess. The recoil spring would be going the wrong way. On the other hand, as Paul mentioned, if the exhaust is blocked, the motor would not asperate. No air/fuel mix flowing, no run. It will be interesting to see how this finally works out!<br />Hmm, one last thought...he also said:<br />"I have tried fuel mix in the carb with no luck - i'll try some juice in the cyls tonight and see what happens. I didn't pull the reeds for fear of not finding another gasket."<br /><br />Could the reeds be gummed up, and not opening??

 

[K Hultgre]

Re: 1957 evinrude lightwin 3hp (3024)

Personally I do away with the pull cord assy when trouble shooting. I use a 1/2" drill with socket extension (broken previously) and the correct socket to fit the flywheel nut. Make sure the drill is turning the proper direction and start spinning. Spark checks are easy and you can spray fuel mix into the carb easily.<br /><br />Now a question.<br />Does anyone know if this motor utilizes a spring clutch on the drive shaft just below the water pump ? I know from exp. if one lets go no amount of pulling will get it to start.

 

[loupis]

Re: 1957 evinrude lightwin 3hp (3024)

wow, lots of interest here now.<br /><br />The exaust gasket i replaced is the gasket under the plate on the right side (looking at the head)<br />I checked it last night and it's on there quite tight. <br /><br />The rope is definately on right - tho I did wind it backwords the first time - Never take that unit apart unless you have to!<br /><br />I haven't checked the armiture plate tho - must work all day to play all night in the garage.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1957 evinrude lightwin 3hp (3024)

Kevin H. - I do that with small engines all the time. Takes a load off the arm when your testing. But I should mention one caveat: at least for me, sometimes the socket gets caught on the flywheel nut when it starts off, and sometimes it whips off the nut after getting stuck and goes flying. Sometimes it hits you square in the forehead. <br /><br />There's no spring clutch-shock absorber thing on this outboard like the 5.5s - just a straight driveshaft running into a simple, forward-only gear set. But that's a good idea (and must be pretty agravating!).

 

[K Hultgre]

Re: 1957 evinrude lightwin 3hp (3024)

thanks for the warning, mental image and laugh.

 

[loupis]

Re: 1957 evinrude lightwin 3hp (3024)

I tried the drill trick and wow - that's real handy. <br /><br />I rechecked the spark and i'm getting a good half an inch so ignitions great.<br /><br />It also farted a couple times. <br /><br />I pulled the plug and found lots of gunk on the plugs - I think i'm getting water into the cylinders.<br />Is there a different gasket besides the head gasket that might cause this?

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1957 evinrude lightwin 3hp (3024)

Possibly if the exhaust cover plate gasket was bad some how. I don't think it's very likely though as there isn't a direct route between the water jacket and the exhaust ports. Not the same situation as larger engines where the water jacket completely covers the exhaust plate anyway.<br />What did the gunk on the plugs look like? Did you surface the head or check it for warp before installing the new head-gasket? Have you tried draining a little gas from the carb to make sure there's no water in the fuel?<br />I think you're on the right track now!<br /><br />Kevin H: I'm glad you find my pain amusing!

 

[loupis]

Re: 1957 evinrude lightwin 3hp (3024)

The gunk looked like a mix of water, oil and gas. I checked the carb and there is definately no water in it so it must be a head leak. give me a yea if i'm headin on the right track.<br /><br /><br />I'm thinkin of droppin the head off at a machine shop and having it resurfaced. <br /><br />loupis

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1957 evinrude lightwin 3hp (3024)

I hate to say it but yes, I think it really can only be coming through the head gasket. Good thing they're not expensive.<br />Surfacing the head is something you can do yourself. You simply lay a full peice of wet&dry sand paper wet down on a flat surface (1/4" plate glass works well). Then rub the head on it in a figure 8 pattern until all the high spots are gone. If you do bring it to a machine shop, make sure they don't get over-zelous. Planing off 0.010" can be too much for a 2-stroke.<br />When you've got it flat, torque it on. Ideally, you want to do this in three rounds (1/2, 3/4 and then full torque) doing the two inner bolts first and then the two bottom, and two top. Like this:<br />5-6<br />1-2<br />3-4<br /><br />When you fixed up the stripped head bolts, did you change the size of the bolt? Exactly which ones?<br /><br />One last thought - it's really easy to mount the 3hp head gasket backwards. It's _almost_ perfect this way but it doesn't cover the cylinders very well. You can't really tell until you have it apart. On my '72 4hp, it was mounted backwards from the factory.