what should i check (rds - 22) before attempting

[CATransplant]

That engine is almost identical to my RDS-20, a 1958 35hp Johnson. There are several of us here with that engine type.<br /><br />The big problem is that you can't hook up the earmuff-type cuffs to supply water to this engine, and you shouldn't even try to start it dry.<br /><br />Build a sturdy, sturdy stand for the engine out of lumber, and put the engine on that, or install it on the transom of a boat. Then, put a large trashcan under the engine, with enough water to cover three or four inches above the horizontal plate above the propellor. That will do to test run the engine, but don't start it dry.<br /><br />Since you don't know how long the engine has sat, everyone here will advise you to change the water pump impeller before going any further. It's good advice. You'll need a workshop manual for this engine, as well. It's a must-have item.<br /><br />What you can do, before changing the impeller, though, is to put the engine in the water, pull the spark plug wires and spark plugs, and check for spark on both cylinders, by grounding the spark plug threads and cranking the engine with the pull start rope. You'll probably need a helper, either to watch for spark or to pull. If you have a good strong spark on both plugs, you're good to go. further.<br /><br />After you get the manual and have the new impeller installed, you have a couple of options. Some people will suggest that you clean the carburetor before going further. You don't necessarily have to do that. It's worth trying to start the engine to see if the carb is OK. Many times, it is. If not, then you can always clean it and install the carb kit.<br /><br />Impellers and carb kits are available from your local OMC dealer, or from a NAPA autoparts store. The aftermarket company that makes them is Sierra. They also have tune-up kits for your engine.<br /><br />The wiring harness is another problem. That part is not available new, as far as I know. It connects to a box, which contains the necessary starter solenoid for this motor. You'll have to dig up a good used unit. A good place to start is at an outboard junkyard, like Twin Cities Outboard (check Google). They'll have this stuff, I can pretty much guarantee. The unit uses a 12-volt battery.<br /><br />It is possible to rewire the thing, but I really recommend using the factory plug and wiring harness. It's worth it.<br /><br />You're going to have lots of questions, I can guarantee, as you go. Ask them here and you'll get the answers you need.<br /><br />BTW: That engine uses a 24:1 fuelil mix. That's 1 quart of TCW3 Outboard oil to 6 gallons of 87-octane gasoline. Get the oil at any marine supply place or even WalMart.<br /><br />Ask away...we'll help.

 

[John the landlubber]

what should i check (rds - 22) before attempting

to start my recently aquired 1960 40 horsepower. it has not been run for at least a year, although i suspect it may be longer.i will be attempting to start it on a bench in a garage so do i need to do something to aid cooling or could i just start it briefly without? what type of battery do i need and where could i get the power lead that plugs into the side? I have so many questions as i am a beginner with only a very basuc knowledge of engines,( 2 years as an apprentice mechanic in 80's)

 

[Laddies]

Re: what should i check (rds - 22) before attempting

Yes it needs water or you will burn up the w/pump, it wouldn't hurt to prelube the cyls. you need to ck the lower unit lube (it takes a sloted screwdriver leave the phillips a lone) the plug in could be the bigest problem, ck around marinas and on ebay

 

[CATransplant]

Re: what should i check (rds - 22) before attempting

I didn't realize you were in the UK. There are OMC dealers there, depending on where you live. You can also order parts online from US firms. Most will ship to the UK. You will probably find it less expensive to buy them here, even with the shipping charges.<br /><br />Try to find an outboard breaker in your area, and check any marine jumbles you can find. These were popular engines, and parts otherwise unavailable may be found there.<br /><br />You may find some OMC dealers somewhat unwilling to be bothered with such an old engine. For that reason, when you order your workshop manual, endeavor to find a factory parts list as well. Many of the parts on your engine were used for several years and dealers may have them on hand, even if they don't think they do or are unwilling to look up the parts in their catalogs. With a part number in hand, you can speed the process.

 

[CATransplant]

Re: what should i check (rds - 22) before attempting

You'll find lists of boat and marine jumble sales by searching Google for "boat jumble" (no quotation marks, please).<br /><br />You may well find your wiring harness at one. The same harness fits a number of 35 and 40 hp engines from the late 1950's through much of the 1060's. Take a photo of the receptacle on your engine for reference.

 

[John the landlubber]

Re: what should i check (rds - 22) before attempting

thankyou both very much for your assistance. I already have engine mounted like you suggested and am able to pull cord. have already located workshop manual supplier although IU am actually in the uk, so will have to phone them as there is no facility for sending outside the usa on this site. also the petrol we have here is different from yours. does that affect the mix rate?

 

[CATransplant]

Re: what should i check (rds - 22) before attempting

Not to worry about the petrol. If it works in your auto, it will work on the outboard. The fuelil ratio remains the same.

 

[John the landlubber]

Re: what should i check (rds - 22) before attempting

i have tried the moving parts such as throttle controls and gear selector. the throttle seems a little stiff, particularly when trying to control from the linkage on the left hand side of the engine wgich i believe to be the one the remote would be connected to, when i manage to obtain one. should this move as freely as the handle for start/fast or do i not need to worry to much because of leverage?

 

[John the landlubber]

Re: what should i check (rds - 22) before attempting

whoa, when CATransplant said I will have many questions, little did he know. I have often been described as a dog with a bone (amongst other things, lol). here we go. I have taken the advice of the "experts" form this forum and searched for outboard breakers in the uk. the one that has featured predominately has a number o f engines that i believe could possibly be of use to me for spares. although the main part i require will be the wiring harness, i am not opposed to purchasing spares in advance if cost allows. I have a list of engines that may share components with mine (this includes a 1959 35hp, thank you again CA Transplant).<br />1961 RD-SL23<br />1974 40R4S<br />1967 40702<br />1969 40RL69r<br />1959 35012 (35hp)<br />1976 406B64R<br />70's 40BALCUD<br />1970 40003A<br />I hope i am not asking too much, but it would help me if i could find out if 1) any of these share the same wiring harnes as my 1960 super seahorse<br />2) if any of these share many major components and would be worth aquiring for spares.

 

[CATransplant]

Re: what should i check (rds - 22) before attempting

The 1961 RDSL-23 has the identical wiring harness as your motor, as does the 1959 motor.<br /><br />Most of the other parts are also interchangeable with those two.

 

[John the landlubber]

Re: what should i check (rds - 22) before attempting

I want to get some tubing to run fuel into my engine, but am not sure what sort of tubing is best. I assume it will be rubber but i dont know what diameter i would need. I am also a little confused about remotes. I don't actually have my manual yet,although i am expecting it shortly but i wouldn't think it will cover the topic of remotes. is this something i need to consider befor obtaining a hull or do remotes work on most hull types???