1960 Johnson RDS-22 40HP

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Re: 1960 Johnson RDS-22 40HP

Oh yes, how do I stop this motor once started? (wiring harness disconnected)<br /><br />Could not find any kill switch, and what was thought to be was decompression. WOW. <br /><br />Lots of Lube, thats my attitude. <br /><br />John
 

Paul Moir

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Re: 1960 Johnson RDS-22 40HP

The generator was optional for outboards without electric shift. And kind of lousey anyway.<br /><br />Here you can see the compression relief stuff:<br />
40_1.JPG
 

CATransplant

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Re: 1960 Johnson RDS-22 40HP

Well...how to stop it, once you start it...<br /><br />You could idle it back, then choke it. That works. <br /><br />Or, locate the two black wires that come out from under the flywheel, and rig a temporary shorting switch to kill the engine. In fact, you could make that permanent by installing a push-button switch somewhere on the lower cowling as a kill button.<br /><br />Shorting the two wires together will kill the engine.
 

CATransplant

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Re: 1960 Johnson RDS-22 40HP

Hey, Paul...what's that cannister there covering the carburetor? Reserve fuel tank? Just kidding...just kidding...
 
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Re: 1960 Johnson RDS-22 40HP

Paul, I do see similar from memory (motor is not in front of me). <br /><br />Decompression is on far right of your picture with brown coloured linkage going up to recoil/flywheel. <br /><br />I don't have any of that good stuff, LOL. Cheers.<br /><br />John
 
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Re: 1960 Johnson RDS-22 40HP

Ok, wait until you hear this. Have had zero time to work on this unit.<br /><br />Replaced coil and good spark on both plugs. Replaced starter, and good to go for starting.<br /><br />Flywheel nut is totally stripped, just get a new one - not yet, no time, odd fine thread damn nut.....<br /><br />New coil which is exactly the same as old, rubs on flywheel. It 'scrapes' on the inner flywheel magnet which seems to be encased in aluminum.<br /><br />Looks like two magnets on the inner side of the flywheel, but coil just barely scrapes one of them. It puts so much dust and junk on the points I could not believe it.<br /><br />Oh yes, will just adjust that coil, nope, can't do that. All wiring is perfect. It is ready to go. What on God's name did I do wrong?<br /><br />Johnny
 
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Re: 1960 Johnson RDS-22 40HP

Oh yes, thanks so much Paul and CA.<br /><br />For humour this is what I actually did. Looked for Champion J4C Plugs but only found Champion JC4 plugs.<br /><br />It did say 'Marine' on the Champion package, well Walmart had both sets and I was not really looking for them. Stupid me.<br /><br />Did not damage the pistons, just closed the gap on those JC4 plugs rather nicely. <br /><br />Thanks again,<br /><br />John
 

cordell

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Re: 1960 Johnson RDS-22 40HP

bumping for me...just got this motor and became a member tonight...
 

tmcalavy

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Re: 1960 Johnson RDS-22 40HP

Been playing with an RD19s and a RD20s in the shop. The heels of the coil you replaced must sit flush with the metal bosses that the heels sit on. Yours are just a smidge forward of the edge and are catching the flywheel magnet. Have to loosen all the hold down screws, align the coil heels and then tighten them down. Have fun. If you need parts, send me a PM...looks like both of mine are going to be parts donors...the one lower unit/gearcase is shot, everything from there up is good.
 

F_R

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Re: 1960 Johnson RDS-22 40HP

I haven't read this whole thread, but a couple of things you just said jump right out at me. J4J and J4C plugs are the same length. The C only means it has a copper core. If the piston hit the plug and closed up the gap, you have catastrophic damage inside the powerhead which allowed the piston to come up that far.

Also, the coils rubbing on the magnets: As said, they should be adjusted flush with the machined edges on the armature plate. However if they are adjusted that way and they still rub, something is loose. The armature plate could be worn out, or the retaining ring that holds it on could be installed upside down (it goes tapered side up), OR -- get this-- the main bearing could be worn letting the crankshaft and flywheel to flop back and forth. And THAT, my friend, goes along with the possibility that the pistons are hitting the plugs because of catastrophic damage inside.

Try moving the flywheel fore and aft. If there is any more than barely perceptable movement, the bearing is shot. With the plugs out, stick a screwdriver into the hole and against the piston. Turn the flywheel and follow the piston with the screwdriver, without pushing on the screwdriver. When the piston is about half way on the downstroke, stop turning the flywheel and then give a push on the screwdriver. If it moves with a clunk, the piston or connecting rod bearings are shot.

Just a bit of history: The 1960 - 40hp was known to break crankshafts. I hope that isn't what you have.
 

cordell

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Re: 1960 Johnson RDS-22 40HP

On mine I tried to fire it up this afternoon, I was able to get it to turn with starting fluid. With this I then proceeded to replace fuel lines and clean the fuel filter/pump. I then pumped it up and cranked the key and NOTHING! So a little squirt of the ol starting fluid and bam it turned again. I then pictured that dirty filter/pump and saw the inside of the carb to probably look the same. Before tackling this I decided to do a compression test and hit 110 on both cylinders! So Thursday I am going to attempt to clean the carb and give it a run again. I will keep you all updated.

cordell
 

cordell

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Re: 1960 Johnson RDS-22 40HP

Quick question?????? The fuel ratio is 50:1 correct? I saw a few places that was talking about 24:1.

cordell
 

freddyray21

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Re: 1960 Johnson RDS-22 40HP

first of all stop using the starting fluid. It does not have any lubricant in it and so therefore none is getting to the bearings. Secondly it will burn hotter and can fry a piston. Clean the carb out and put a rebuild kit in. If you need to prime it use premix squirted into the carb.
 

tmcalavy

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Re: 1960 Johnson RDS-22 40HP

24:1 for all made before 1964. Pull the flywheel, check points, coils, condensors, and connections. Also make sure the key that keeps the flywheel locked to the crankshaft is intact and not broken, if it's sheared the motor is probably out of time. That carb is pretty simple. Hope you are trying to start it with the LU in a barrel of water, otherwise it'll fry the impeller after it starts. You can pull the flywheel with a harmonic balancer puller from an auto parts store. Good luck.
 

cordell

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Re: 1960 Johnson RDS-22 40HP

I bought a trash can and redid my fuel mixture. I am off for a couple days and will tempt to get her running. I do have the carb kit and new impeller due to arrive in a few days so I might be waiting for then :[...Thanks for everyones input so far I need to hear the encouragement, lol if you seen my boat you would know why!
 

cordell

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Re: 1960 Johnson RDS-22 40HP

OK I really hope someone has a bit of incite, maybe something easy I am over looking. Today I took my carb somewhat apart and cleaned out some grime from the reservoir , I cleared a clog in a hole that ran through the reservoir also. I didnt do much more than that as I am still expecting my carb kit to arrive tomorrow sometime. I took the advice and used fuel mixture to try and prime and would get action from the motor while doing so, finding the right spray is hard! If I didnt flood while doing this the motor would run and die out as soon as the mixture burned off. The thing is I am getting NO fuel to the motor. Is the fuel filter/pump causing this or do I need to totally take apart this carb and automatic choke. Everything has been helpful so far, I know now that my 40 horse will and wants to run. I just need to get it there. lol

Thanks
Cordell
 

cordell

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Re: 1960 Johnson RDS-22 40HP

*****UPDATE*****

I went back into the garage and took that carb apart again! This time I took my compressor to it and blew air through every hole. I found one hole located between the low speed and high speed adjusters. This hole seemed to be letting air flow through where I need pressure for fuel to build up. I took a BIC pen cap and shoved it ito this hole and turned the motor again and found it was starting to get fuel!!! I then researched this site and found instructions on adjusting the low and high speed mix and tried again....BAM it started and idled!!! My question what is this missing part? And do I need it? And if so where might I buy it , and its name?

Thanks in advance,
Cordell
 

tmcalavy

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Re: 1960 Johnson RDS-22 40HP

Can you post a pix of the carb? I'm wrestling with a RD-19S which I think has the same carb, but not sure. The float valve keeps sticking on mine, flooding it. I can get it to start and run, but not stay running. It may become a parts horse. If you need a good functioning starter, let me know...everything on mine appears good except the gear case and gear set.
 

cordell

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Re: 1960 Johnson RDS-22 40HP

Here is a pic. You will see the area I am talking abot, I have a BIC pen cap shoved in there to block air flow and create the preasure needed to make the carb work. I am thinking now that maybe some sort of pump/primer goes in this hole, all I know is I want to get rid of the pen cap and replace with the real part. lol

image might be a bit BIG

000_0015.jpg
 

larky

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Re: 1960 Johnson RDS-22 40HP

I just went and looked at my motor. It has the same carb as yours. the carb on my motor has the same hole that you have plugged with the pen, and mine runs great with nothing there. I'm not exactly sure why the hole is there. I wish I could help more. someone will be along that will know. just be patient, they are excellent motors and worth the time to figure it out.
 
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