Johnson 40HP 1970 electric shift neutral

[Jalbec]

Hi everybody,<br /><br /> Mainly my problem is this: when I shift forward after a certain point the shift (in the motor) comes back by itself in neutral (it rev's at high speed but the boat stay in place).<br /><br /> I noticed it happens sooner when the boat is more heavy (more people etc...).<br /><br /> When it happens I put back the transmission back in neutral so the motor comes back on idle.<br /><br /> If I keep going on low speed it won't happen.<br /><br /> I checked my prop and it seems ok even if it's an old one.<br /><br /> Please excuse my bad english and bad explanation.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: Johnson 40HP 1970 electric shift neutral

Welcome to Iboats, Jalbec!<br /><br />First you should determine if the prop is good for certain. Remove the black cone held in by the cotter pin and with a marker make a line that goes from the outside part of the propeller (the part with the blades) to the part that the shear pin goes through. Between the two is a rubber cushion which may be slipping. Take the boat out for a drive, then check to see if the marks are still lined up. If they are not, the propeller is bad and will need to be repaired or replaced.<br /><br />Another thing you should check is that you're getting over 12 volts on the green shift wire when the shifter is in forward. A better test is to check the current draw on the forward coil, which should be around 2 amps. But if you don't know how to do this, don't bother.<br /><br />One last thing, those drives will slip if you put the wrong oil in them. It must be BRP 'Premium Blend' Lower unit oil, nothing else.

 

[Jalbec]

Re: Johnson 40HP 1970 electric shift neutral

Hi Paul,<br /><br /> Thanks a lot for this fast answer!<br /><br /> About the oil, you said "those drives will slip if you put the wrong oil..." That's really what's happening and it began after a change of oil (hivernized).<br /><br /> But does the motor repairman usually knows about this specific oil? and can I find this oil everywhere?<br /><br /> Anyway I will try to do that first and while the boat will be out of the water for the oil change I will mark the prop the way you told me so I will be able to check it if the problem is not the oil.<br /><br /> As for the shift wire voltage I don't think I can do it myself.<br /><br /> I will try this next week-end but I will be back only on July 11th so at that time I will give you a feedback, thanks again!

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: Johnson 40HP 1970 electric shift neutral

Depends on the repair man. Only ones that would be familiar with '62-'70 "Selectric" shift outboards would be. Confusing things, '70s era "Hydroelectric" shift engines will work with normal outboard gearcase lube.<br /><br />I think this is most likely the source of your trouble then. You can only get that proper oil from a Johnson or Evinrude dealer. Canadian Tire has a lube they claim works for electric shift outboards - it doesn't!<br /><br />Do your own oil changes if you like. There's a little cheap pump you can get to make the job go easier. The dealer will sell them, and you can also get them from Canadian Tire (they're in with the gas cans in the automotive section usually). If you would like details on how to do this, just ask.<br /><br />Good luck!

 

[Jalbec]

Re: Johnson 40HP 1970 electric shift neutral

Hi Paul,<br /><br /> Thanks a lot for the info.<br /><br /> About this little pump, is-it a plastic bottle with a thin nozzle?<br /><br /> Yes I will like some details because I think you have to put the oil from the bottom (how?) but when do you know it's full? If there is some air with the oil in the gearcase would that cause problem?<br /><br /> I hope too it's the source of my trouble! Thanks again and I am waiting for your answer.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: Johnson 40HP 1970 electric shift neutral

The one I've got looks like this:<br />

<br />It screws into the top of the bottle of oil, and the fitting on the end of the tube fits the screw hole in the lower unit. <br />They also sell oil in squeeze bottles for which you don't need the pump, but the pump really makes it simple and far less messy. Probably costs them $1 to make, they sell for about $10, but they're really priceless if you value your sanity.<br /><br />What you need:<br />2 nylon gearcase plug gaskets (pick up a few from the dealer so you have them for later)<br />1 Pump<br />450ml or so 'Premium Blend' lube.<br />1 large slot screwdriver.<br />1 old bucket to catch the old oil.<br /><br />How you do it:<br />1. Place the bucket under the gearcase with the outboard in the normal, "down" position.<br />2. Remove the bottom large slot screw ("Fill") on the side of the 'skedge' or fin on the bottom of the gearcase. Oil will begin to drip.<br />3. Remove the other large slot screw ("Vent") on the side of the lower unit just above the flat plate above the propeller. Oil will flow more quickly. If the outboard is a manual shift, do NOT remove any phillips head screws.<br />4. Wait for the oil to drain out. Examine it for chunks of metal or signs of water. If the oil comes out the colour of coffee with cream, it's got water in it. If it comes out like black coffee or the colour of honey, it's good.<br />5. While you wait for it to drain, fit new nylon washers on the "Fill" and "Vent" screws. Discard the old ones. They might stick to the lower unit and need to be dug out with a screwdriver.<br />6. When the gearcase finally stops emptying, put the pump on your oil bottle, and screw the other end into the "Fill" plug screw hole. Pump away slowly until oil comes out of the "Vent" hole. <br />7. Put the "Vent" plug in and tighten it. Remove the oil pump fitting and quickly install the "Fill" plug. Not much will drip out due to the "Vent" being pluged. Tighten the "Fill" plug.<br />8. Clean up, dispose of the oil. Make sure you put roughly 450ml into the gearcase.<br /><br />If you've got any questions, just ask. It'll probably take about 1/2 hour the first time you do it, 15 minutes the next time.<br /><br />Good luck!

 

[nimmor]

Re: Johnson 40HP 1970 electric shift neutral

You may run into the same problem I had when iI called my local Evinrude/Johnson dealers. None of them around here had Premium Blend oil. One did offer to order it but only in case form and I would have to buy the case. I found the oil here on I-Boats. It is also called Type "C".

 

[Jalbec]

Re: Johnson 40HP 1970 electric shift neutral

Hi everybody, I'm back !<br /><br />Paul I changed the oil with the "Premium Blend" with the little pump you suggest to use.<br /><br />It's worked very well... for a couple of hours. The problem was solved... I thought.<br /><br />But at a certain moment the same problem was back and the motor began to run slower. I stop and start a couple of time and suddenly the motor would'nt start. When I turn the key there is some backfire and the motor doesn't go on idle.<br /><br />I brought the boat out of water and empty the gear case oil. The oil was nearly white (like the first time when I added the new premium blend oil. I guess there is a gasket problem???<br /><br />Do you thing there is any hope for this motor? Is it a big job to change a gasket in the gearcase? What do you thing about the starting problem. (I checked the choke and it was properly positionned)<br /><br />Thanks again for your great help and YES the proper oil with those 62-72 Electric-Shift engine is very important!

 

[itstippy]

Re: Johnson 40HP 1970 electric shift neutral

"Do you thing there is any hope for this motor?"<br /><br />Yes. You have Paul on the case. Be patient and don't run the thing any more until you hear from him. You now have powerhead problems on top of gearcase problems and you could damage something badly by running it like it is now.

 

[Jalbec]

Re: Johnson 40HP 1970 electric shift neutral

ROGERS itstippy, thanks for your concern.

 

[itstippy]

Re: Johnson 40HP 1970 electric shift neutral

The pros will be along to help you out. Have you had this outboard for a while and it is now acting up, or did you just get it? Are you familiar with engine basics or know someone who is? If the motor started to run slower, then quit and wouldn't start, it may have gotten very hot. Do you know how to check the compression in the cylinders?

 

[Jalbec]

Re: Johnson 40HP 1970 electric shift neutral

I bought it 3 years ago. First year.. excellent. At the end of the first season I changed oil in the gearcase and at the beginning of the following year the sliping problem began.<br />After a while the forward and reverse were mixed up. <br />I went to a place they repair motors and they told me that the wires in the gear box were finished. It was hard to get new wires but I found used one in another place and they changed it (with the casing because it looked too hard to change the wires without stripping them) but I didn't try the boat (it was last fall).<br />This year when I try it the slipping problem was there but the shifting (forward and reverse) was good.<br />After that you can follow the story from up here.<br /><br />I'am not sure if the motor was very hot when it refused to start and I don't know how to check the compression in the cylinders.<br /><br />I hope I didn't confused you too much???

 

[itstippy]

Re: Johnson 40HP 1970 electric shift neutral

You have two separate problems now:<br />1) The gears slip.<br />2) The motor doesn't start or run properly.<br /><br />The gears slip. Your new oil is milky white. You have water getting into it. That will cause the wires to short and the gears to slip. There are little nylon washers on the fill screw and the drain screw. Did you use new washers when you put in new oil? Often these little washers leak. Hopefully it's not gaskets or seals inside the gearcase. Try new washers first. <br /><br />The motor ran OK, then ran bad, and then wouldn't start. This might be serious. There is a rubber pump wheel ("impeller") just above the gearcase that pumps cooling water to the engine when it's running. If this water pump wears out the water stops cooling the engine and things get very hot. <br /><br />You want to pressure test the gearcase. You pump air into the oil fill hole and see if it leaks out. If the air leaks out, and you can see where it leaks out, that is where the water leaks in. Don't pump in too much air - maybe 8 lbs.<br />You want to compression test the cylinders in the motor. That will tell you if anything is damaged inside from getting too hot. If it's damaged inside it will cost a lot of money to fix. You simply take out the spark plugs, screw in a compression tester gauge, and turn the starter for a few seconds. There are instructions for both these tests in previous posts. Search around and you will find them. Even if you don't do the tests yourself you will be knowledgable when or if you take the motor to a repairman. The guys on this site who know a lot about motors (like Paul) always want to know how the compression test comes out. They test for A) Compression in the cylinders. B) Spark from the spark plugs. C) Fuel coming into the carburator and coming out fuel/air mixture.