No Spark

[macguyverr]

Hello! I'm new to this fourm. I have an older (1973) Evinrude 115 Horse (115393) which ran 100% up until this year. The inital start at curb was fine. We took it to the lake and when put in gear it stalled. Someone told me that my carbs looked gummed up and two of my coils had small cracks in them. Also to check compression which is 120-125 on all four. So, I rebuilt my carbs and replaced the two cracked coils and now this pig won't start. I asked around on what to check and most answers leaned towards electrical. So, I went out and got a spark tester. I first pulled my flywheel to check stator for cracks and drips. The stator checked good visually. Now I put the flywheel back on and proceeded to check the spark. The first coil #1 threw great spark, #3 sparked one time (one arc) and #2 and #4 no spark at all. I am now in the process of checking the coils, timer base, and power pack, but my manual says to use a Neon tester for the remainder of the tests. Does anyone know what this is, where I can get one, or if there is a modern way to check these items. I am trying to avoid the "Well that's not it either purchases" if you get my meaning. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[mikeyzx2]

Re: No Spark

welcome to iboats! <br />which coils did you replace? did you check for spark before you tore into it? check and make sure you got everything grounded good. right now preliminary diagnosis points to possibly powerpack, or sensor coils. losing spark on either 1/3 or 2/4 is a symptom

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: No Spark

First you need the proper tools' to check this system. The first being a peak reading volt meter. To do these tests', you first have to know where you are at. Both the sensor assembly, and power pac, are not cheap items' on this engine. You need the tools to determine which, if either is causing the problem.You can throw alot of money at a problem like this, and get nowhere. How can the carbs' look gummed up when you can hardly see them with the airbox on.

 

[macguyverr]

Re: No Spark

Originally posted by mikeyzx2:<br /> welcome to iboats! <br />which coils did you replace? did you check for spark before you tore into it? check and make sure you got everything grounded good. right now preliminary diagnosis points to possibly powerpack, or sensor coils. losing spark on either 1/3 or 2/4 is a symptom

Thanks for the reply. I replaced coils one and three. Yes the grounds are good. Where are the sensor ciols located? I spoke with someone today who suggested I check the points.? Does this motor have points?

 

[mikeyzx2]

Re: No Spark

the sensor coils are part of timer base, the charge coils are part of stator, just so you don't get mixed up between the two. and the older motors have points and condensors, these motors don't. before tearing into the motor and throwing anymore parts at it listen to R.Johnson cause not only are the parts expensive, but you might end up spending 500 bucks easy and the problem might be a 50 dollar fix. you can test the sensor coils with a good voltmeter follow the manual's instructions, along with anything else

 

[macguyverr]

Re: No Spark

Originally posted by R.Johnson:<br /> First you need the proper tools' to check this system. The first being a peak reading volt meter. To do these tests', you first have to know where you are at. Both the sensor assembly, and power pac, are not cheap items' on this engine. You need the tools to determine which, if either is causing the problem.You can throw alot of money at a problem like this, and get nowhere. How can the carbs' look gummed up when you can hardly see them with the airbox on.

First of all Thanks for your input. This is an awsome site. I have not yet obtained the adaptor for my volt meter yet. Kind of new to this outboard troubleshooting. I guess I am kinda stuck without the peak voltage readings. Oh! The air box was off when my freind saw the gum in the carbs. I was trying to clean the without a rebuild. Someone else replied to my qustions and I asked him where the sensor ciols were. I looked in my manual for them and now know where they are. I am going to ohm them out tonight. Thanks for the help.

 

[macguyverr]

Re: No Spark

Originally posted by mikeyzx2:<br /> the sensor coils are part of timer base, the charge coils are part of stator, just so you don't get mixed up between the two. and the older motors have points and condensors, these motors don't. before tearing into the motor and throwing anymore parts at it listen to R.Johnson cause not only are the parts expensive, but you might end up spending 500 bucks easy and the problem might be a 50 dollar fix. you can test the sensor coils with a good voltmeter follow the manual's instructions, along with anything else

 

[macguyverr]

Re: No Spark

Opps! Thanks mikeyzx2! I just got done checking the manual about this and am going to do the ohm check later tonight on the sensor coils. I will post with results when I am finished.

 

[mikeyzx2]

Re: No Spark

macguyver, if the carbs looked gummy on the outside, then the insides may not be a whole lot better. and it's what you can't see that poses the most problems with carburetors<br /><br />Lucky for me I haven't had to get into any more advanced types of diagnosis yet than so wait till it's my turn for something like this, I'll probably have a brain fart and not know where to start

 

[71whaler]

Re: No Spark

This may be a stupid question, but what is the difference between a "peak reading voltage meter" and a regular voltage meter? I have a digital multimeter which measures voltage, continuity,etc. is this not sufficient for testing ignition components? <br /><br />I am trying to track down a no spark problem myself. 1983 Evinrude 75HP

 

[macguyverr]

Re: No Spark

Originally posted by 71whaler:<br /> This may be a stupid question, but what is the difference between a "peak reading voltage meter" and a regular voltage meter? I have a digital multimeter which measures voltage, continuity,etc. is this not sufficient for testing ignition components? <br /><br />I am trying to track down a no spark problem myself. 1983 Evinrude 75HP

Hey 71whaler. I'm in no way an expert on outboards, but it is my understanding that in diagnosing these electrical systems the DC voltages are very high. On my motor 300v AC is converted to 30,000v DC and I know that a standard multimeter will not handle this. These guys on this site are very knowledgable. You should post your questions.

 

[macguyverr]

Re: No Spark

Well took a vac. day today in hopes that I could make any more progress on this motor. I checked my sensor coils last night. The manual says that on the low ohm setting I should read +/- 8.5,(7.5-9.5) respectivly. Well, that reading would be on the money at 70 degrees F. Either in my manual or on a site I read that in temps. higher than 70 the reading should be higher, but does not indicate how much higher. I got readings of 12 and 13 ohms. Now if this is within range at 80-85 degrees then I should be looking elsewhere. Going to do a little more post reading wire checking. Also hunt down the adaptor for my multi-meter to check peak readings.

 

[Blueclaw]

Re: No Spark

Originally posted by R.Johnson:<br /> First you need the proper tools' to check this system. The first being a peak reading volt meter. To do these tests', you first have to know where you are at. Both the sensor assembly, and power pac, are not cheap items' on this engine. You need the tools to determine which, if either is causing the problem.You can throw alot of money at a problem like this, and get nowhere. How can the carbs' look gummed up when you can hardly see them with the airbox on.

You can make a probe up to use on a regular digital volt meter. All you need is a 10 watt 10ohm ceramic resistor. aligator clip one end of the resistor on the red probe of the meter and use the other end to test with. You need to tape the bare leads of the resistor real well for insulation, or get some electrical heat shrink tubing and shrink it over the leads.

 

[mikeyzx2]

Re: No Spark

macguyver, did you test each sensor lead also on the HI ohms scale? my service manual might cover 77 model 85hp, but I don't see why testing the sensors would be any different. it says set to HI ohms, between each sensor lead and ground. if reads infinity the sensor is indicated as good. if "0" reading, the sensor lead or sensor coil is shorted to ground, and needs replaced. you may or may not have done this already though