1996 40 hp - inspection

[jakeboomer]

Hello,<br /><br />I found a used 1996 40hp e-rude (model E40ELEDS) for sale and I need some help evaluating and hopefully some advice and warnings about the motor. <br /><br />The only issues I could see when looking it over was a bent skeg, which looks like it happened while off the boat (the orginal owner repowered his pontoon, according to the marina salesman.) <br /><br />I assume a pressure check on the lower end, and a compression check on the cyclinders is a good place to start. What about the VRO system in this particular model year? Is there any way to tell if this system has issues? Are there any other issues I should be aware of?<br /><br />Currently, I have a 1996 Johnson 30hp on my 16 foot boat, and with all the flooring and batteries it's underpowered. Does the bigger 2 cylinder 40 horse have a good power difference over the the 2 cylinder 30hp (actually a beefed up 25 horse.)?<br /><br />I appreciate all information you guys can offer. This site is great.

 

[fishnfiend]

Re: 1996 40 hp - inspection

There are many on this board that know a heck-of-a-lot more than me about this motor, but I'll thrown in my 2 cents...<br /><br />I have a 1988 E-rude 40 on my Lund 16 foot aluminum(about 650 pounds, gas, two batteries, console, deck, live well, motorguide on front). It'll push us somewhere between 26-30 depending on the load. Pops the boat up onto plane almost immediately. Will pull up slalom skiers <180 pounds. Struggles with >200 pounders, even on two skis.<br /><br />The newer (4 wire) VRO is excellent - read in the FAQ, this forum about pros and cons. I had the older (3-wire), removed it, and now run VRO-less. If you troll alot, I think you'd prefer the VRO since it oils proportionate to the rpm's, and will smoke less/run better at idle than a 50:1 constant mixture.<br /><br />These are simple, strong, reliable, economical motors for which parts are abundant and relatively inexpensive, and tech support (this forum) is superb for the do-it-yerselfer.<br /><br />I'm pretty sure compression when new is 150 per cylinder. Mine tested at 145 both cylinders this summer. Still runs like new. <br /><br />A 10 pound jump is not a huge power increase over your 30. If you feel it is underpowered, not sure how happy you'd be with such a slight increase. Depending on your usage, the right prop can make an awful lot of difference, however.<br /><br />Good luck!!

 

[Silvertip]

Re: 1996 40 hp - inspection

The 40 HP is a great engine and should provide a significant increase in performance. There are two schools of thought on the VRO. If its working, continue using it. If you worry about it, remove it and pre-mix. You are doing everything right. Compression test, lower unit check, and hearing it run are essential. Run a premix until you are certain the VRO is working. Mark the tank with a marker to visually observe oil use. I have a '95 that's been a great motor. I did remove the VRO as it became unreliable and I cover way to much water to be bothered with a worrysome lubrication problem.

 

[jakeboomer]

Re: 1996 40 hp - inspection

Thanks for the responses.<br /><br />I just talked to the marina about the compression check and the lower end seals. They are testing today. <br /><br />I am concerned about the VRO issue also, and since I am already mixing with my 30 horse, I might just remove the option. I also don't need another tank in the back of my boat. <br /><br />FishnFiend, I have thought about changing props also. My boat currently runs 22-23 with two people, and even less with a hunting load. I was hoping the bigger displacement motor would get the boat out of the water and move the heavy loads a little quicker. I also wanted the power trim and tilt option for when I go on my own. I would look for a 50hp, but my boat is only rated to 40. <br /><br />Any other opinions would be greatly appreciated. Also, the marina wants a decent value for the motor (tach, controls, etc.) for 1899.00, which I think is high. I don't believe NADA accounts for the controls and trim. So what's fair asking price.<br /><br />Thanks again,<br />Boomer

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1996 40 hp - inspection

Iboats member seahorse submitted an excellent article about VROs:<br /> http://www.iboats.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=36;t=000028 <br /><br />Myself, I wouldn't be afraid of a mid-90s VRO.

 

[Johnnielund]

Re: 1996 40 hp - inspection

Jake,<br />I have a 1993 16' Lund Explorer powered by a 1990 Johnson 30 HP (25 made into 30). I am using a 10 x 13 prop (5800 RPM @ WOT) and get around 28 MPH (GPS) with 2 people in the boat. I'd check your prop.

 

[jakeboomer]

Re: 1996 40 hp - inspection

Johnnielund, I have the same prop, and by myself I can get around 28 mph. I thought about reproping, but it seemed I would be running wot all the time, and only to keep these (slower) top end speeds. I am hoping the 737cc 40hp will have some lowerend grunt with a heavy load, and a better topend all around. Boat is 96 Lowe with floor, livewell, etc... I guestimate about 600 pounds.<br /><br />Eitherway, I bought the 40hp since it was in great condition (145 on both jugs, pass pressure test.) I also got a deal on price and rigging. I'll post the results. After looking at it, I believe it has a pontoon prop on it (high trust) which I'll probably have to replace for best results. What props are you guys having the best luck with?<br /><br />Thanks for the feedback. Any other information is appreciated. <br /><br />-jboomer

 

[fishnfiend]

Re: 1996 40 hp - inspection

Hey congrats on your motor purchase - a good choice (but then I'm biased).<br /><br />Several folks just weighed in on a 40 hp prop discussion - here's the link.<br /><br /> http://www.iboats.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=28;t=036347 <br /><br />Have fun with your new motor!