Run Dry or Not!

alden135

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Sep 1, 2004
Messages
1,770
Re: Run Dry or Not!

I'm going to run JP5 next year. That should clean my motor, and increase performance. :) <br /><br />Seriously though, both fuel docks where I boat sell 87 gas. No complaints from any except about price.
 

MCM

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Jun 1, 2005
Messages
1,201
Re: Run Dry or Not!

JB, Thanks for the correct quote :D , and you are absolutely correct in what was reccommended in '75 is no longer relevant to todays motors or todays fuels. I listed it only as an example of how the reccommenations have changed over the years, another example would be spark plugs which have been superceded over time to compensate for the changing fuels and additives.<br /><br />This thread did get a bit side tracked didn't it. :rolleyes:
 

jegervais

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 18, 2002
Messages
646
Re: Run Dry or Not!

I agree with Joe Reeves, don't run it out of fuel.<br /><br />For 2 reasons: The potential lack of lubrication. Additionally, you increase the opportunity for the little bit of fuel that remains in the bowl to oxidize (I think that's the term I want), causing the nasty gum many of us all too frequently clean out of carburetors.<br /><br />Another reason NOT to run it out (this only applies to VRO-equipped engines) is the VRO will fill the carbs with oil if you try to run the engine out of fuel. It'll be extrememly difficult to start in the spring and if you manage to get it started, you willnot be very popular with the neighbors either! :D <br /><br />Mark42's information is correct in that it matches what I've been taught in Evinrude/Johnson service schools (i.e. 1995 EPA requirement for all fuels to have a minimum level of detergency). This brings out a couple of good points and one that needs clarification.<br /><br />If you talk with someone in Evinrude tech service today, they will tell you that unless you have a highly modified (racing), hi-compression engine 87 octane will suffice. They will however quickly add that the use of quality TCW-3 certified oils is mandatory. As explained to me, the recommendation for premium fuels was in fact, that they wanted the hi-detergency of the premium fuels, as these were the days before TCW outboard oils existed. The appearance of TCW-3 oil negated their requirement for premium fuels for most recreational boaters. There are several fuel and oil related OMC-produced service bulletins which discuss these topics. SB 2155 and 2159 discuss timing changes and other modifications that may need to be made to some 1985 and older models.<br /><br />And just like EPA minimum detergency levels for fuel, TCW-3 is a "minimum" level too. IMHO, the $5/gallon TCW-3 Brand-X oil is not as good as the Evinrude / Johnson XD-30 TCW-3 oil. <br /><br />I can only add my personal experience with higher quality oils, having previously owned a 1998 Ficht and now owning a 2001 Ficht (an engine which notoriously produces lots of sooty combustion chamber deposits). This engine began its service life on the Evinrude Ficht Ram oil (now called XD-50). Every fall when I winterize I use a bore light to inspect each cylinder. I have to say the 2001 engine with Ram oil was about 50% cleaner than the 1998 engine which I used regular Evinrude TCW-3. I was religiously using Carbon Guard in EVERY tank of fuel with both of these engines and ran a decarbonizing treatment (Engine Tuner) once a year.<br /><br />After 2 seasons of XD-50 use I switched over to the Evinrude XD-100 oil. I noticed after the first season of using XD-100, the cylinders appeared cleaner than I remembered from the previous year. And at last years winterization, I could once again see the part numbers the factory etches into the top of the pistons. <br /><br />Needles to say, I no longer use the Carbon Guard, nor use Engine Tuner. The expense of those products alone, offset the cost difference in the "best" oil available for my engine. I'll add I typically buy 87 octane and rarely buy premium, unless its the only available fuel (usually at the fuel dock).<br /><br />The price difference between regular & premium fuels in my area is about .30/gallon (and much higher @ fuel docks). That's about $12/tank for my boat. Depending on the type of outboard (2-stroke carbureted or 2-stroke DI) you own and your driving habits, it may be more cost effective just to buy the better oils, rather than the premium fuel.<br /><br />Will premium fuel "hurt" an outboard? - I doubt it. Is there any benefit to using premium? I think so, but I think the benefit is minimal if you use good oil.<br /><br />It doesn't hurt to buy your fuel from a name-brand hi-volume retailer either.<br /><br />Just some additional food for thought.<br /><br />-John
 

walleyehed

Admiral
Joined
Jun 29, 2003
Messages
6,767
Re: Run Dry or Not!

For the sake of fun....<br />
I'm going to run JP5 next year.
Jet fuel is equivilant of about 45 octane fuel..<br />It will ruin a piston engine in about 5 minutes at WOT.... :D <br />We had a youngster on the line fueling a/c here years ago, that mis-fueled a Cessna 421 with JA-2M (same as JP5 with anti-microbials) he aborted take-off roll and the left engine siezed before he could pull the throttles back all the way (power is reduced very slowly on these as to not shock-cool and crack cylinders). upon teardown (Manditory) of both engines, both were beyond specs and total junk...about 45 thousand a side mistake....Off topic, I know...just hope nobody gets an Idea to try this....
 

h_lankford

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 6, 2005
Messages
135
Re: Run Dry or Not!

For the sake of fun...<br /><br />okay, more on that octane mismatch, just for fun here and getting off topic:<br /><br />back when I made "mechanic housecalls" for the rental company, if one of our 4-cycle diesel generators failed in the field, it was a 90% chance that the morons ignored the "Diesel Fuel Only" signs plastered all over the tank. The first clue was that they said "It ran fine until we refueled it". The second clue was sniffing the tank. So we just drained out 50 gallons at their expense, gave them 1 free gallon of fresh diesel, flushed and reprimed the diesel injection system, and no harm done. Merry Christmas
 

alden135

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Sep 1, 2004
Messages
1,770
Re: Run Dry or Not!

Maybe I mean AV gas. Some of you just won't let me have any fun.
 

Capt-George

Cadet
Joined
Dec 13, 2005
Messages
11
Re: Run Dry or Not!

Thanks, everybody....WOW, what a response!!!<br /><br />I have personally blended gasolines for both a major and an independent refineries. And, the stability, gum, and varnish ratings are far worse for regular vs premium even on today's specially formulated and reformulated blends.<br /><br />Essentially, regular gasoline is designed to be used within a week or two after dispensing - your typical auto useage. Premium is a much more stable and cleaner product. Since I routinely only use 10 gallons out of my 36 gallon on-board tank for a day's fishing, some of the fuel can be months old or worse. (Theoretically, since I've never dumped and refilled my tank, I still have some gasoline left in there from 1994 - if only an ounce or two!)<br /><br />I've left premium in the tank from season to season and I never get that "varnish smell" of "old gas" when I'm ready go again.<br /><br />My 1994 Johnson 88HP Special is still running like new and other than replacing the "cheap" plastic carb bowls, it's never given any trouble even though I run 99% of the time in salt water.<br /><br />Thanks again for all the responses!<br />Is this a great forum or WHAT?
 

coleman kayak1

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 8, 2005
Messages
260
Re: Run Dry or Not!

Originally posted by Mark42:<br /> It is common here to tell boaters to use regular gas in their outboards and premium is a waste of money. But the fact of the matter is that OMC recommends premium. It's right in the owners manual. It specifically states that use of permium fuel is preferred over regular and will help to keep the motor cleaner. <br /><br />So why deny that OMC wants boaters to use premium in its outboard motors? By denying this basic fact, you are depriving you fellow boats the protection afforded by using premium in the form of reduced deposits and wear.<br /><br />So, if you have an OMC outboard, grab the owners manual and follow the advice from the people who made it and have to honor the warrantee.
My 1964 Lightwin Manual says:
Use a good grade of regular gasoline (such as used in automobiles). High octane or leaded fuel gives no advantage
 

Capt-George

Cadet
Joined
Dec 13, 2005
Messages
11
Re: Run Dry or Not!

In 1964 all the gasoline was leaded except for Amoco super premium - also known as "white gas". "White gas" was so clean it was also used in gasoline lanterns and cooking stoves. <br /><br />In those days both regular and premium had gum producing, low octane "cracked" gasoline components. Consequently, the gum and varnish ratings were about the same for regular and premium. (The lead deposits were even worse.)<br /><br />Today's unleaded gasolines are totally different - both regular and premium grades are cleaner than in 1964. However, even todays regular gasoline grades contain gum and varnish producing components. Premium does not.<br /><br />Hope this helps.
 

walleyehed

Admiral
Joined
Jun 29, 2003
Messages
6,767
Re: Run Dry or Not!

Captn George, end result???? Don't run it dry...too much chance going metal to metal- as Joe and JB said..it's really for the best of your engine, and 87 or 93 octane won't stop the wear...in fact the 93 can cause more trouble than it's worth.<br />When Joe, or JB give a recommendation, I've found it best to follow them, and in my O/H's, I can pretty well tell the ones that ran'er dry every time...lack of lube shows it's ugly face...
 

Mark42

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Messages
9,334
Re: Run Dry or Not!

Originally posted by walleyehed:<br /> ..in fact the 93 can cause more trouble than it's worth.<br />
This is another piece of information that I have not found any substantiation for (other than members opinion).<br /><br />Again, higher octane does not cause problems. Claims of hotter burn and poor running are not the characteristics of high octane fuel. Almost across the board, high octane fuels just burn SLOWER, not hotter. Actually, the explosion of fuel known as "knock" is actually hotter than the normal burn temp of gasoline. The temperature of the burn is more influenced by combustion chamber shape and compression ratio than by the difference between regular and premium.<br /><br />And again, reduced wear is a benefit from premium because the additional cleaning agents keep carbon deposits down. It's those deposits that chew up the rings and cylinder walls every bit as fast or faster than using poor quality oil.<br /><br />And before someone jumps in with claims that 4 cycle tech does not apply to 2 cycle motors, please keep in mind that deposits occure in every interal combustion engine. Outboard 2 cycle motors were designed to run on gasoline, and benefit from premium fuels the same as any other motor designed to run on gasoline.<br /><br />Both regular and premium fuels contain the same BTU, so it is hard to imagine one will burn hotter than the other. Depending on your engine, if it has pre-ignition, premium will give you better economy because it will not lose power when pinging. For members with I/O or 4 cycle o/b this is a very real situation. I have never experienced 2 cycle pre-ignition, although I hear it will grenade a 2 cycle. <br /><br />Regarding the documentation of premium vs regular by OMC, in the 1993 owners manual it states... "NOTE: Use of premium grade fuels is specifically encouranged.... ...premium fuelds contain detergent and dispersant ingredients... ...these ingredients also remove and prevent carbon buildup on pistons and rings. These ingredients can extend engine life while maintaining a high level of performance." I'm sure OMC had proof of the advantages of running premium over regular to put that very specific suggestion to use premium in their motors.<br /><br />Just something to think about.
 

walleyehed

Admiral
Joined
Jun 29, 2003
Messages
6,767
Re: Run Dry or Not!

OK, Now let me tell you what the SERVICE manual states....<br />PREFERRED FUEL: Any Regular unleaded, regular leaded, or premium unleaded gasoline having the recommended octane rating and not extended with alcohol is the preferred fuel as stated above.<br />In the chart above this it does not "List" a max octane, but it does recommend 87 octane as the fuel of choice, and also the Minumum rating.<br />Now, I wish I could tell you who posts on this that works for Manufacturers, one of them, OMC/BRP engines,..the other a Piston manufacture. Both have told me over and over NOT to use premium, even though I have high comp heads on my XP.<br />I have 2 tanks on my boat, and have run both 87 and 91. I also have EGT and CHT. The EGT runs higher with the 91, but CHT stays about the same. I've seen enough of these apart now to tell the 91 cokes up much worse than 87, and it does cause build-up under the rings, it Idles poorly, and I lose about 75-100 RPM on top with 91. I have made too many good contacts that have told me "what" happens and why. These are people that were involved in designing these engines, not dealers...I've seen all I need to, and believe 91 is totally useless in a normal, std use engine.
 

jhebert

Ensign
Joined
Jul 24, 2005
Messages
903
Re: Run Dry or Not!

This is from my OMC 1992 V6 Looper 120-HP thru 300-HP SERVICE MANUAL, Fuel Requirements:<br /><br />"NOTE: Use of premium grade fuels is specifically encouraged. Most national brand premium fuels contain detergent and dispersant ingredients advertised to reduce intake valve and fuel injection deposits. These ingredients also remove and prevent carbon buildup on pistons and rings. These ingredients can extend engine life while maintaining a high level of performance." (Page 2-4.)
 

Mark42

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Messages
9,334
Re: Run Dry or Not!

Originally posted by walleyehed:<br /> OK, Now let me tell you what the SERVICE manual states....<br />
Walleyehed, What year and brand service manual are you quoting from?
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: Run Dry or Not!

Is there going to be an award of sorts for the winner? Sheeesh, give it as rest.
 

walleyehed

Admiral
Joined
Jun 29, 2003
Messages
6,767
Re: Run Dry or Not!

I have only Factory, OEM manuals...1961 to 1992.<br />Joe, I'd like to hear from you on the Hi-octane issue...no competition, just facts. You been at this along time, Joe, what is your experience with hi-test fuel???<br />I picked up a 1988 manual for crossflow V4-V6, then I checked a 1991 for all V4-V6, and I don't find where it says premium is the Recommended fuel???? Just want clarification if I'm wrong on that part...I know what I "see" in the engines run on hi-test.<br />I highly respect your opinion and advice, Joe, so please don't take this wrong.
 
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