Johnson 130

[TD_Maker]

Hello to all. Well, I sold my old Whaler with the Johnson 88 SPL. I will miss this little rig, but it got real small 17-20 miles off shore. Anyway, I just purchased a 20 ft Aquasport with a VERY low hour 2000 Johnson 130. <br /><br />Truthfully, this is my first outboard with an oil injection system. The manual says I should hear chirping when I first turn the key; however, all I hear is a very quick little chirp. Is this normal? How do you know if the Injection system is or is not working? Does it ever need bleeding? Should I be scared of it? Like I said, I have only had Johnson/Evinrude V-4's or motors with pre mix requirements.<br /><br />One final question. Are the OMC repair manuals still available for one specific engine?<br /><br />Thanks for not laughing at me or dogging me.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Johnson 130

(VRO Horn Warnings)<br />(J. Reeves)<br /> <br />1 - A steady constant beep = Overheating - The V/6 engines, possibly some others, have a fuel restriction warning which is also a steady constant beep.<br />2 - A beep every 20 or 40 seconds = oil level has dropped to 1/4 tank. (Late model engine = Every 40 seconds)<br />3 - A beep every other second = VRO failure, air leak in oil line, oil restriction, (anything that would result in a lack of oil being supplied to the engine).<br /> <br />NOTE - If the warning horn is the black plastic (overpriced) three wire type horn, the warning horn should beep once when the ignition key is turned to the ON position. If it does not, it is either faulty or someone has disconnected it (a stupid move!). At any rate, if it does not beep which indicates that the horn is non functional, find out why and do not run the engine until the problem is corrected.<br /><br />(VRO Changeover Judgement Call) <br />(J. Reeves)<br /> <br /> The VROs first came out in 1984 and have been upgraded quite a few times. In my opinion, back around 1988, they had perfected them but I think that they were upgraded even more since then. As long as the warning system is operating as it should, I feel quite at ease with them.<br /><br />Some boaters have voiced their thoughts such as "What if that overpriced plastic horn should fail while I'm under way for some reason, and the VRO decides to fail five minutes later?" Obviously that would result in a big problem which really brings their fears into view.<br /><br />The word "ease" is the key word though. If one has the slightest feeling of being ill at ease with that setup, then they should take the route they feel more at ease with. A judgement call each individual would need to make on their own.<br /><br />********************<br />(VRO Pump Conversion To Straight Fuel Pump)<br />(J. Reeves)<br /><br />You can convert the VRO pump into a straight fuel pump, eliminating the oil tank and VRO pump warning system, but retain the overheat warning setup by doing the following:<br /><br />1 - Cut and plug the oil line at the engine so that the oil side of the VRO pump will not draw air into its system. Trace the wires from the back of the VRO to its rubber plug (electrical plug) and disconnect it.<br /><br />2 - Trace the two wires from the oil tank to the engine, disconnect those two wires, then remove them and the oil tank.<br /><br />3 - Mix the 50/1 oil in the proper amount with whatever quanity fuel you have. Disconnect the fuel line at the engine. Pump the fuel primer bulb until fuel exits that hose with the tint of whatever oil you used. Reconnect the fuel hose.<br /><br />That's it. If you want to test the heat warning system to ease your mind, have the key in the on position, then ground out the tan heat sensor wire that you'll find protruding from the cylinder head. The warning horn should sound off.