reasonably priced parts '67 Erude 40

[68whaler]

Refurbishing both my '67 Erude and '68 Whaler. Need head gasket, thermostat kit, water pump kit and possibly lower unit seal kit. Any advice about obtaining parts at a reasonable price?

 

[DHPMARINE]

Re: reasonably priced parts '67 Erude 40

That depends on what you perceive to be a reasonable price.Generaly I advise OEM,in your case buy OMC/BRP.<br /><br />Aftermarket has it's place,but you get only what you pay for.I see lots of posts about getting parts for carbs after rebuilds.OMC/BRP kits contain all you need,including floats.<br /><br />Sort of like buying car parts at major outlets.Do you trust a $20.00 water pump?Some things are so cheap,I wonder if I could put faith in them.<br /><br />DHP

 

[68whaler]

Re: reasonably priced parts '67 Erude 40

OK, OEM, reasonable sources?

 

[DHPMARINE]

Re: reasonably priced parts '67 Erude 40

Your local Johnson / Evinrude Dealer.<br /><br />DHP

 

[68whaler]

Re: reasonably priced parts '67 Erude 40

Their reply was "antique" no parts.

 

[DHPMARINE]

Re: reasonably priced parts '67 Erude 40

That's a shame.They just don't have the energy to extend themselves.Or are too dumb to know where to look.I'll try to get you some part numbers Monday.<br /><br />DHP

 

[68whaler]

Re: reasonably priced parts '67 Erude 40

Thanks DHP - While I am putting in a new impeller, should I replace the lower end seal under the water pump? Have water in lower unit and know I need to replace prop seals.

 

[DHPMARINE]

Re: reasonably priced parts '67 Erude 40

68WHALER,<br /><br />Head gasket 307069 $22.40<br /><br />Thermostat 5005440 $22.60<br /><br />Gasket 305196 $3.49<br /><br />Impeller kit 379768 $27.73<br /><br />OMC/BPR doesn't make a seal kit for the lower unit,but you can buy it piece by piece.Or try Sierra.They make a kit: 18-2686 for manual gearcase and 18-2687 for electric shift.<br /><br />Good Luck<br /><br />DHP

 

[68whaler]

Re: reasonably priced parts '67 Erude 40

Thanks DHP I found everything I need except the lower end seals. I am planning on replacing the prop seal and the seal just below the water pump. Are there other places that these commonly leak or should that be sufficient? Will

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: reasonably priced parts '67 Erude 40

Is that an electric shift you have or a manual?

 

[68whaler]

Re: reasonably priced parts '67 Erude 40

Is one of the notorious "selectric", not manual. I did find the seals by copying down the numbers from the originals, then asking the local dealer if he had em without telling him the year of the engine.

 

[68whaler]

Re: reasonably priced parts '67 Erude 40

It is truely a shame that most dealers aren't interested in keeping these old workhorses running. I know mine was never rebuilt and much of the original lapping pattern is still evident on the cylinder walls.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: reasonably priced parts '67 Erude 40

There isn't much left to seal then. Use fresh o-rings and have a critical eye for the shift wires. <br />It seems to me that people who take care of their electric shifts don't have a problem. That means using the correct oil, checking for l/u oil leaks and not operating if it slips until the reason is found & corrected.

 

[68whaler]

Re: reasonably priced parts '67 Erude 40

I pulled the old seals and although the roller bearing under the water pump is free, there does seem to be ever so slight play in the driveshaft -and i do mean only thousandths, can barely feel it. Would you suspect this bearing as causing the original water leak?

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: reasonably priced parts '67 Erude 40

Tough to say. That's one of those full complement drawn cup bearings right? I don't see one of those wearing so it's loose, but without putting a lot of groove into the driveshaft since the driveshaft is a lot softer than the cup and needles. Unless the rollers went flat for some reason, and you would be able to detect that easily enough.<br />One or two thousands I would chalk up to design and tolerance. Five or six is enough to cause a leak. Those are just guts & experience, no spec that I know of.<br /><br />Place your seals so they don't ride in the old seal grooves on the shafts and such. Those are the most likely sources of trouble. But if you want to replace the drawn cup bearing, understand that when you pull it it'll be destroyed. Torrington makes it if I'm not mistaken, so you can get it from a bearing house if BRP can't provide. It shouldn't be much money.

 

[68whaler]

Re: reasonably priced parts '67 Erude 40

Yes, it is Torrington. There is no wear on the shaft, just a slight polishing where the bearings ride. I was hoping not to have to tear the lower end apart as I am in a little over my head mechanically here. Guess I will just take the lower end to the machining people at my college and see what their opinion is. Is very difficult to see down into the bearing to check for flats but we do have several folks who are expert on engine work - never too proud to ask advice.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: reasonably priced parts '67 Erude 40

I don't think you have a wear problem there then. If you can turn the needles a bit with your finger you should be able to feel any roughness. But like I said, those needles are a lot harder than the shaft so it should take the worst. It seems to me that those drawn cup bearings are always a little on the loose side anyway.

 

[68whaler]

Re: reasonably priced parts '67 Erude 40

I put a dial indicator on the shaft today just above the bearing and the side play was only .002.<br />Got a good magnifying glass and no evidence of flats although the rollers are a little discolored - think I caught them just in time as they were quite dry, gonna pack with grease and install the new seals. I do appreciate the advice about making sure the seals ride in a new spot, I wouldn't have thought of that. Just dont seat them all the way I guess. Life is good, this is looking doable after all. Thanks Paul and DHP.