I'm having problems with the Tilt 'N Trim system on my motor. Perhaps someone can be of assistance.<br /><br />When I click the switch to activate the trim up or down, all that happens is a sound comes from the back of the boat. The sound is a cross between a click and a pop. The sound only occurs after I've released the switch back to the off position. I assume it is solenoid returning to resting position, but I cannot precisely locate the source of the sound.<br /><br />I've determined that the tilt power system consists of a lead direct to ground, and a switched hot wire (one green, one blue) which is for up and down. There is also a fourth wire (of much smaller diameter) which seems to run direct from the non power trim cylinder direct to the gauge in the dashboard. As far as I know this wires only reason for existence is for sensing purposes. Were it to be disconnected I can fathom no reason for it to affect the performance or functionality of the TnT system.<br /><br />But, (this pertains directly to my first question), I've found in the past that, when the positive wire for the running lights system (which includes the little $0.50 bulb inside the TnT gauge on the dashboard) is disconnected from the battery, the trim/tilt would only go up, but would not go down. There appears to be some interconnectivity between the lights and the trim, and I can't figure out why that is. Also, in recent years, when the lights were activated, the indicator needle on the TnT gauge would immediately shoot to the highest position on the gauge and remain there. The functionality of the trim itself was fine, but the gauge was not indicating correctly. This further suggests to me that something is amiss in the TnT gauge, but I cannot figure out what it may be. The gauge is factory sealed and I'm reluctant to attempt to disassemble something when I'm nearly certain I won't be able to put it back together.<br /><br />My first question: Does anyone have a circuit diagram for the TnT system of systems of this era? Especially pertaining to the gauge.<br /><br /><br />My second problem pertains to the problem I mentioned earlier where my TnT has failed altogether. This is probably the more important problem. As stated, all that occurs when the switch is toggled is I'll hear a click/pop sound and no motion will occur. <br /><br />I've isolated the TnT system from the rest of the electrics, connected the negative direct to the battery and alternatively connected the green then blue wires to the positive terminal, and had the same effect. A clicking sound, but no motion. I'm certain the motor is receiving voltage. <br /><br />I thought my problem might be with the motor itself, so I removed the cap from the TnT motor case, and discovered three things: 1. The motor was seized. 2. There was significant rust/corrosion on the bolts running the length of the motor case. 3. The wire coming in the side of the case leading to one of the brushes was corroded off.<br /><br />At this point, I feel it's prudent to mention that my boat has spent some time at the bottom of the lake. I believe that some amount of water has probably made its way into the TnT motor casing. This would probably explain the corrosion and seizure. <br /><br />I intend to re-soldier the connection, drain the system to remove any water that remains in it, refill it with something, and hopefully be good to go.<br /><br />My second question contains multiple parts. First is; Wheres the drain hole? I'm guessing that it's the slot head screw adjacent to the port where the fluid pushing the cylinder UP goes, but I'm not 100% certain. The gasket looks old and crumbly, and if it's not the right screw, I'd prefer not to remove it, as I think I'll have to replace the gasket. <br /><br />Secondly, does anyone know where I might find replacement gaskets?<br /><br />Thirdly: Pertaining to the hydraulic fluid; I notice that as a DC motor, the hydraulic pump has brushes. Brushes arc. This motor casing appears to also be the fluid reservoir. According to threads I've read trying to find someone with a problem similar to mine, Automatic transmission fluid is considered to be an acceptable hydraulic fluid substitute. <br /><br />Ordinarily, I'm 100% in favor of the cheap 2nd best solution that serves the same function. But I understand automatic transmission fluid to be flammable. Flammable liquid in a contained space with an arcing motor does not sound like a recipe for a good time to me. Can someone explain to me what I'm missing here?<br /><br />Secondly, regardless of what fluid is used, to what level should the case be filled? It has been observed in my household that the fit between the rotor and the stator is very very tight fit. This has led to some speculation that perhaps the case is to be filled to the point of overflowing so as to provide lubrication between the armatures. I personally believe this would interfere in the flow of current between the brushes and the rotor, but being completely immersed rather than subject to fumes might lessen the risk of fiery explosions, (which I'd prefer to avoid). If someone could settle this debate for me, I'd appreciate it.<br /><br />Also, does anyone have anyone have an idea what might be making that clicking/popping sound?
