Float bowl drain screw question

[miguel agullo]

Hi all,<br /><br />I've got a Mercury 2 hp Lightning outboard attached to a 15 feet steel ex-fishing hull to cruise the (sweet water) canals in Amsterdam. The other day I pulled the engine out of the water after realizing it had eaten a plastic bag (even though the motor continued working.) Removal of the prop showed the remains of a second plastic bag wrapped in the axle.<br /><br />While I was removing this mess, my boating partner jumped on board and the next thing I know is the outboard is fully submerged in the water (except for the prop end of the shaft). I pulled it out, left it on the boat for 12 hours and came back the next day. I drained the gas tank and the engine of all water / oil, liberally sprayed dampstart spray, cleaned the spark plug. And it worked.<br /><br />After some stuttering, it went on for about 3 hours. A couple of times it seemed like it was going to die, but moving the throttle up and down a bit got it back to regular cycle. As we were about to dock, the engine died while idling. It has not started since.<br /><br />I've taken apart the carb, etc. but I don't see anything obvious (second hand motor, but looks pretty new inside). Sprak plug works ok.<br /><br />And finally the question. If I open tank valve, the oil leaks from the float bowl drain screw. This does not happen if I tighten the screw. The screw has a spring between the screw-head and the carb casing and I am pretty sure it was not tightened all the way before. But the motor vibrates quite a bit, so much so, in fact , that the screws that hold the plastic outer casing of the motor sometimes come off. I'm wondering if this drain screw also got unscrewed and should be screwed tightly.<br /><br />Also, since the massive leak started when the motor died, I've been relating the two of them. Maybe by screwing the drain screw I get rid of the leak and by having cleaned the carb I'll get the motor running. Since the leak was still there when I put the motor back together, I didn't try to start it.<br /><br />Anyway, any ideas would be appreciated. I've been told by a Merc dealer this is a pretty crappy motor (he wouldn't repair it). It cost me only 60 bucks, but if I get it to work again, it is definitely a lot more valuable.

 

[ShafferNY]

Re: Float bowl drain screw question

I don't know what is wrong with your motor. I would try tighten the screw up, if it would get rid of your leak, just make a note of where it's at now, that way you can put it back in the same place if that doesn't help the motor to run.<br /><br /> As for

I've been told by a Merc dealer this is a pretty crappy motor (he wouldn't repair it).

You can't get a motor for 60 bucks, it's definitly worth fixing, even if you sell the motor after you get it fixed you would get your money back.

 

[Bear]

Re: Float bowl drain screw question

That was a strange quote from a Mercury dealer. <br />Is there any other dealers who you can talk to?<br /><br />The spring under the float bowl drain screw does'n belong there I think.<br />This is a 2.2 HP carb:<br /> http://www.mercruiserparts.com/images/MERMAR/43122/5.png <br />There should be a gasket, no spring. Maybe previous owner lost the screw and fitted a too long one and used the spring as a spacer?<br />What do you mean by "If I open tank valve, the oil leaks from the float bowl drain screw."?<br />You mean gas leaks...?<br /><br />If you got a spark after it was under water you were lucky. Do you still have a spark?<br /><br />I think you still have water in the fuel system. <br />Check the carb for water again, every jet and every small passageways.<br /><br />Check the needle valve. Did you put it uppside down?<br /><br />When it refuses to start, does the spark plug get wet by gas?<br /><br />Let us know if The Monster gets better <br /><br />Bear

 

[miguel agullo]

Re: Float bowl drain screw question

Wow, thanks for the quick replies.<br /><br />I guess my long message had some inconsistencies.<br /><br />What leaks from the drain screw is gas, not oil. Are drain screws generally screwed tight or not? I know this sounds like a dumb question - but I do think mine was not totally screwed in and didn't leak.<br /><br />I do get healthy sparks even after I pulled it from the water. Blue/white and lots of them.<br /><br />I do think the gas is not getting to the cylinder. But I am not sure. Should the sparkplug be very wet? If I take it out, put my finger in, and pull on the starter, I feel compression, but do not get my fingertips wet with (lots of) gas. Of course, if I mess with the engine, I stink of gas, so it's hard to tell ... unless it should be very noticeable. I've read the amount of gas that gets into the chamber is not that much, so I'm not sure what to expect. <br /><br />Anyway, I'll be taking apart the carb once again today or tommorrow and will post any news.<br /><br />(The schematic of the carb submitted is of a different model - mine has the throttle and choke lever placed horizontally, not vertically).<br /><br />Thanks again!

 

[Bear]

Re: Float bowl drain screw question

"Are drain screws generally screwed tight or not?"<br />Tight. But make sure it is'nt too long. Use a proper gasket.<br /><br />Unscrew the plug, blow dry it with compressed air or your moth and let it dry. Put it back when you are ready with anything else. Pull the rope 10 times or so. Check the plug. If gas is coming thru you will see the wet gas even if it isn't dripping. Just the opposite of dry.<br /><br />The tip of the neddle valve shall be pointing uppwards tovards the seating. The spring end shall be facing the float.<br /><br />Are you sure you got all water and gas out of the cylinder and crankcase? Hard to start and bad news because your bearings might have started to rust.<br /><br />Here some other tips to follow:<br /> http://www.brokeboats.com/sunk.html <br /><br />Bear