1993 115hp Help

Fishallot

Seaman
Joined
Dec 13, 2003
Messages
52
I recently purchased a used boat that has a 1993 Merc 115 4cyl motor on it. The serial # is OD190240. The motor seems to have been maintained well, it's very clean and everything appears to have a good amount of lube. I'm planning to replace the water pump and thermostat just for peace of mind since I have no idea how old either one is.<br /><br />Due to my limited time recently I've only had the boat on the water a few times but have toyed with the motor quite a bit on a hose in the driveway. I purchased the Clymer manual for this motor and have found it helpfull but it doesn't answer all my questions. I've noticed a few things that I'd like some help on. This may be a little long but I figured it would be better to ask all my questions in one thread versus starting a bunch of new topics.<br /><br />From what I gather this motor is refered to as a 2+2, that is at low rpm only the top 2 cylinders are firing and the final 2 cylinders kick in somewhere around 1600 rpm. I'd never heard of this setup prior to owning this motor but I now think I understand how this works. Anyone have any feedback on this system, pro or con? The previous owner had the idle set at about 1800 rpm, I'm assuming this was to keep all 4 cylinders running at all times. I didn't like this as the motor seemed to slam into gear with such a high idle. I adjusted the idle timing screw on the throttle arm to lower the idle but I don't feel I got it right. The lowest rpm I can get the motor to idle smoothly is about 1000 rpm. If I try adjusting the rpm lower the motor runs fine for for about 30 seconds but then the rpms will occasionally dip down to about 400 rpm for a few seconds and come back up. After a few mintues of this occasional dip in the idle the motor will shut off unless I give it some gas. It starts right back up everytime this happens. Is there another adjustment that I need to make to get the idle down to the proper rpm?<br /><br />On the rear upper left part of the powerhead there's a cover for the thermostat. This cover has a weephole that's leaking a small amount of water whenever the motor is running. I have been told that this is probably just a diaphram associated with the poppet valve. Does this sound right? Could this be the sign of a larger problem? Could someone explain to me what the function of the poppet valve is? <br /><br />My boat doesn't have a temp gauge or water pressure gauge mounted on the console. Any opinions on adding one of these versus relying on the alarm to let me know of any temp problems? The boat does have a mechanical oil pressure gauge on the console however it doesn't appear to be working, the needle barely moves with the motor running. Is there anyway to check this gauge for proper operation? What oil pressure should this gauge be showing if it's working properly?<br /><br />Sorry that this got so long but as I said earlier it seemed better to ask all my questions in one thread. Thanks in advance for any and all help you guys can offer.<br /><br />Rob
 

Fishallot

Seaman
Joined
Dec 13, 2003
Messages
52
Re: 1993 115hp Help

One other question I just thought of.... The previous owner has been running Yamalube with this motor. Is there any drawback in switching over to Quicksilver? <br /><br />Rob
 

Elmer Fudge

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Aug 25, 2003
Messages
1,881
Re: 1993 115hp Help

Hi fishalot, normal rpm on your motor at idle should be around 650 to 675 range. <br />First you need to do a compression test.<br />The poppet valve is really a pressure relief valve, what it does is it actually allows your engine to operate at the correct "RPM 5000-5500 WOT" at lower temps.That's done after the initial pressure is reduced at the T-stat thereby safe guarding the various gaskets.<br />Installing a water pressure guage is very necessary "imho".<br />Switching to Quicksilver TC-W3 oil from Yamlube should'nt be a problem at all.
 

rodbolt

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 1, 2003
Messages
20,066
Re: 1993 115hp Help

hello<br /> its time for a compression or better a leakdown test. fix the coolingsystem. this will include new t-stat and pressure valve diaphram. new water pump kit. then go through the carbs. the lower 2 carbs do not just kick in. there is an accelerator pump and some recirc valve. the 2 bottom carbs just dont flow much fuel/oil mix at small throttle angle. as the angle is increased the vacum produced downstream of the carb venturi becomes enough to force fuel from the bowl. its time to do a compleate and major tune up If the compression is OK.<br /> good luck and keep posting
 

Elmer Fudge

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Aug 25, 2003
Messages
1,881
Re: 1993 115hp Help

oh!and i think the oil pressure guage should read about 2 psi, a pro technician or one of the more experienced fellers will come along and correct me if i'm wrong on that,but first thing is to do a compression test and report back the results :)
 

Fishallot

Seaman
Joined
Dec 13, 2003
Messages
52
Re: 1993 115hp Help

Thanks for the replies guys. <br /><br />I don't have a compression tester so i'll have to go pick one up after work tomorrow to run the test. Sounds like a handy tool to have in the box for future use. I'll report back the results after I do the test.<br /><br />If that 2psi is correct on the oil pressure then the gauge is working, it moves up to at least that high. I just assumed it should be higher since the gauge goes much higher than that.<br /><br />The thermostat and poppet valve seem easy enough to replace on my own. Are there any special tools needed for doing the water pump?
 

rodbolt

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 1, 2003
Messages
20,066
Re: 1993 115hp Help

hello<br /> that engine has no oil pressure<br /> hence the oil pressure gauge is somewhat of an anomally to me.<br /> did someone tap into the line between the oil pump and the fuel pump? I have never heard of anyone trying that. follow the pressure tube from the gauge and tell me where it connects to the motor. do the compression test first. then if all is well start on the water pump. no "special tools" are needed. just patience and luck. in our salt environment sometime the bolts are stuck and may need a wee bit o smoke. good luck and keep posting
 

Elmer Fudge

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Aug 25, 2003
Messages
1,881
Re: 1993 115hp Help

Pressure from the crank case passes via a hose leading to the top of the remote tank.<br />The remote tank is then pressurized to 2 psi, subsequently oil goes through the pick up tube down into the tank from a cap on top of the tank,which then passes upward through the oil hose into the reserve tank that on the motor.<br />Thereafter gravity is suppose to take over,however the 4cyl did'nt have the remote tank system,so Rod you are correct in your analysis.<br />It is possible that the guage was hooked up to a previous motor on that boat.
 

Fishallot

Seaman
Joined
Dec 13, 2003
Messages
52
Re: 1993 115hp Help

Well I never claimed to be the brightest guy in the world... turns out my so called oil pressure gauge is really a water pressure gauge. The gauge goes to 30 psi, just says "pressure" on it and is original to the boat as is the motor. I swear the former owner told me it was an oil pressure gauge. The feed line tee's into the tell tale hose before it leaves the cowling. It's running at about 3 psi while idling at 1000 rpm, I haven't seen what it reads at higher rpm's yet.<br /><br />I purchased a compression tester today but didn't have time to run the test. I will try to do it tommorrow if the forecasted rain ends soon enough during the day. One question I do have about running a compression test... My manual says to securely ground the plug leads before cranking over the motor to avoid switchbox damage. What's the best way to accomplish this?<br /><br />Thanks again for your help, I'm sure I'd be lost without you guys.<br /><br />Rob
 

Fishallot

Seaman
Joined
Dec 13, 2003
Messages
52
Re: 1993 115hp Help

I had time to work on the motor today. I ran the compression check and all seems well. The cylinders hit at 115-115-115-110, however in my haste I forgot to open the throttle to full. These readings were with the throttle in netruel, not sure if that makes a difference?<br /><br />I also replaced the thermostat and poppet valve diaphram today. I checked the old thermostat and it was working but figured since I had the cover off I may as well replace it. The new diaphram stopped the leak from my cover weep hole.<br /><br />I toyed with low speed mixture screws on the top two carbs and brought them in to 1 1/2 turns out, one was set at 2 turns out and the other at 2 1/2. I was able to get the idle speed down to 800-900 rpm and keep the motor running. It still runs a hair rough at this rpm but at least it doesn't do the surge that it was before below 1000 rpm. I'm thinking that I just need some fine tuning on this motor to get the idle down to specs. Does anyone have any fine tuning info that may be helpfull from this point?<br /><br />I disconnected the water line that runs to my water pressure gauge and blew as hard as I could into it. I was only able to get the needle to move up to 3 psi. Now I don't claim to have the strongest set of lungs out there but I'm sure I can blow at a higher pressure than that. I guess my next step should be to disconnect the line at both ends and try blowing into it to see fit here's a blockage. <br /><br />One last question for now, I noticed today that my fuel line ball isn't getting hard when I squeeze it. I disconnected the fuel line from the motor and it still wouldn't get hard after many pumps. Could this have something to do with my idling problems?<br /><br />Thanks again for the help, I feel like I'm making some good progress.<br /><br />Rob
 

walleyehed

Admiral
Joined
Jun 29, 2003
Messages
6,767
Re: 1993 115hp Help

One thing you need to do is leave the idle alone when running on the muffs....If you've set it for low idle now, when you get it on the water, the back pressure will slow it quite a bit more, and may be slow enough it won't run. My theory on idle adjustments is do them on the lake in actual conditions you will be running in...
 

Elmer Fudge

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Aug 25, 2003
Messages
1,881
Re: 1993 115hp Help

Try and tighten up all your fuel lines,it could be 1. a faulty primer bulb.<br /> 2. need of a new fuel pump diaphram kit.<br />It appears that air is leaking into the fuel lines.
 
Top