1963 Merc 1000 no fire

[bh357]

Motor started easily and ran great on the muffs, and after we put the boat in the water. Accelerated great, seemed to be pulling strong. Motor died after about 1/2 hour of running, the majority at no-wake speed. Bulb would not get hard. Got towed back to the dock, and today picked up a new bulb. This bulb will get firm, with plenty of fuel to the carbs. Now the motor does not want to fire. Today the battery was quite low on charge, but could still turn over the motor, albiet slowly. Put it on the charger for about an hour. Starter cranks much faster, but still won't fire.<br />Any suggestions? The only other thing I can think of is that the battery still does not have enough juice to light off the ignition system, but will spin the starter (and motor) just fine.<br /><br />Thanks

 

[emckelvy]

Re: 1963 Merc 1000 no fire

If the battery will spin the starter over, there's enough juice to start the motor.<br /><br />Have you pulled a spark plug, placed it back in the boot, grounded the plug to the block then spun the motor over to check for spark?<br /><br />If you have no spark, it could be a dead rotor. Pull the coil wire which goes to the center of the distributor cap, and unscrew it from the distributor (Do Not pull it out of the distributor, it unscrews counterclockwise).<br /><br />Place the end of the coil wire such that it's approx 3/8" from the block or metal part of the lower cowling. Crank the engine over and you should see a strong snapping spark. If you do get spark at the coils and not the plugs, the distribuor rotor is bad. Repeat for the coil wire which connects to the side of the cap, with 2 screws holding it to the cap. Note that before removing the cap, if you don't remove this coil wire first, it'll break the rotor or the carbon contact on the coil wire.<br /><br />If you're not getting spark out of the coils, and you are getting voltage to the coils thru the ballast resistors, the points are probably dirty.<br /><br />You can remove the points, clean to brite metal with a whetstone and crocus cloth, or progressively finer wet-dry sandpaper, and reinstall them set to approx .009"-010". However, for best operation and smoothest idle, the points should be set on a degree wheel. You can also get new replacement points, and condensers if the points are badly pitted. <br /><br />I believe someone here posted the pattern for a degree wheel tester, or you can make one yourself by getting an automotive-type pattern.<br /><br />Here's a good site with info on your Merc, also I might suggest a Seloc Merc manual.<br /><br /> http://www.maxrules.com/oldmercs/timing/41.pdf <br /><br />HTH.......ed

 

[DHPMARINE]

Re: 1963 Merc 1000 no fire

fully charge the battery,and you will be back to step one.Old Mercs NEED a fast crank speed to get good fire to the plugs.<br />DHP

 

[bh357]

Re: 1963 Merc 1000 no fire

Thanks Ed Mc and DHPMARINE,<br /><br />Left it on the charger for another hour and was able to get it started. I'm findnig out that these Mercs love their gas and juice. However, after backing up from the dock, I was unable to shift into forward. I heard a metallic ratcheting sound, and shut it down. Got the boat back on the trailer and dropped the lower unit. Prop does not ratchet, i.e. turn the prop one way, the drive shaft turns one way, turn the prop the other way, driveshaft turns the other way.