'72 Mercury 1150 Need Schematics

[sarconastic]

I have a '72 Mercury 1150 Thunderbolt that I cannot get to start. I bought the boat a week ago, it was a mess, cleaned it up, had to rewire the console and several things under the cowling. But I am sure I didn;t mess up the wiring itself, but may have a bad connection in something I did. I need the schematic to trace this down. This saturday is the wifes B-day and the only thing she wants is to go out on the lake. We haven't had a boat in about 8 years. <br /><br />So any help anyone can give me will be appreciated.<br /><br />My email is *spamfree*kwoody@mchsi.com if anyone could please help me out. remove the *spamfree* to get through.<br /><br />Thanks<br />Sarc

 

[Trent]

Re: '72 Mercury 1150 Need Schematics

Look here.....<br /><br /> 115 Wiring diagram

 

[sarconastic]

Re: '72 Mercury 1150 Need Schematics

Thanks Trent that is part of what I need. I would also like to find an actual schematic that has the referaence voltages etc so that I can trace the circuit down a bit more. <br /><br />I am not real familiar with Boat engines, though I have been working on autos for years, and am an electrician, so I basically need to know what the voltages are supposed to be at each terminal in order to trace it down and see where I have lost my source power for the engine. Like at the red terminal ont he ignition box with key on, am I supposed to have 12V there? as an example.<br /><br /><br />Thanks again<br />Sarc

 

[emckelvy]

Re: '72 Mercury 1150 Need Schematics

Sarc, red term always has power, the white term has switched +12V to it with the key in the "ON" or "START" position. Here's a diagnostic process for distributor-driven inline CDI system, courtesy of Clams Canino:<br /><br />MERCURY BATTERY-POWERED CDI TEST <br />FOR DISTRIBUTOR MODELS<br /><br />This test is for the 332-2986 switchbox used from 1967-1978 on all the inlines.<br /><br />This test assumes your coil is good (most all are).<br /><br />DISCONNCT BATTERY <br /><br />1. Turn off ignion<br />2. Disconnect all 3 wires on the distributor side of the switchbox.<br />3. Remove the HV lead from the coil to the center cap (remember it unscrews<br />from cap)<br />4. Reconnect that HV center lead to the COIL side only.<br />5. Position that HV lead about about 3/8" from ground (block, shrouds etc)<br />and find a way to hold it there.<br />6. Jumper the brown and white terminals on the dist. side of the switchbox<br />together.<br /><br />RECONNECT BATTERRY<br /><br />7. Check that you have +12 V at red terminal.<br />8. Turn on ignition and verify +12V at white terminal (on red terminal side)<br />9. Touch the black terminal to ground - unit should cause spark each time<br />you touch ground.<br /><br />If that passes and it won't fire at all, suspect the trigger.<br /><br /><br />HTH and Good Luck on the Saturday boat ride...........ed

 

[sarconastic]

Re: '72 Mercury 1150 Need Schematics

Thank Ed.<br /><br />Thats what I need to get started. Will check it out if the rain here evers stops.<br /><br />Later<br />Sarc

 

[emckelvy]

Re: '72 Mercury 1150 Need Schematics

Sarc, you must be getting our rain, we had an Extremely dry spring, and summer isn't doing much better! So much for the PNW being the land of Rust!!! lol.

 

[phatmanmike]

Re: '72 Mercury 1150 Need Schematics

you need a manual, pronto

 

[sarconastic]

Re: '72 Mercury 1150 Need Schematics

Well thanks to everyone. Got the motor running tonight. All electrical checked out ok. With that out of the way I researched a little farther. Found the fuel connection fitting to the motor was not depressing the check valve inside it enough to allow fuel flow. Replaced the end and it purs liek a kitten now. <br /><br />But.... Couldn't get any water flow from the weep hoel for the water pump. I had already cleaned the topside of the lines out where some bugs had made a nest in but it still didn't flow. Dropped the lower unit and am in the process of seeing if it's plugged or if it is the impeller. the impeller looked ok, but it is one of the cheap ones without the brass bushing in the middle. I wil probably replace it any way just to be safe. But first I have to make sure all the flow port are clear. <br /><br />2 days and counting. The wife will be torqued if I don't make it.<br /><br />Thanks again<br />Sarc.<br /><br />Ps. Ed, we have been in a drought here in Iowa fo rthe last four years, and all of a sudden it ains every afternoon. Its like we are getting all the rain we didn't get before.

 

[sarconastic]

Re: '72 Mercury 1150 Need Schematics

Mike,<br /><br />That's the next thing on the list, gotta run up to Omaha to get an impeller so the manual will get picked up then. Sucks being 60 miles from anywhere.<br /><br />later <br />sarc

 

[emckelvy]

Re: '72 Mercury 1150 Need Schematics

Sarc, while you've got the lower unit down, try blowing air up the water tube. You should hear it gushing out the midsection if there's free flow thru the powerhead. You can also hook the garden hose up to the water tube and, with the motor in its normal operating position, flow some water thru.<br /><br />You may also have good luck using an air nozzle to blow back any debris lodged way up into the telltale hose.<br /><br />Be sure to have the shift lever on the control box and the lower unit in the same position, i.e. if you removed it in fwd gear, reinstall it the same way. If you had it in neutral, reinstall that way and turn the flywheel clockwise while inserting the lower unit, in order to engage the driveshaft into the crank splines. While the lower end is off, don't move the shift shaft any great degree from where you found it.<br /><br />Enjoy the Wet Stuff.........ed

 

[sarconastic]

Re: '72 Mercury 1150 Need Schematics

It was the impeller and some debris in the water tube. I changed out the impeller, reinstalled it. i made sure everything was lined up and not moved but when I got it back together it would shift into neutral or reverse. Dropped the unit again and found the shift shaft was about 45 Deg out of position. Luckily after reading a bit onthe forums here I rotated the prop til just before it clicked and the shift shaft went right back into position. I out the Throttle in neutral, and click the shift shaft into neutral, put it all back together and fired it up. Got water out the Weep hole with real good pressure and it shifts again. Though I do need to adjust the shift linkage a little bit. To get back to neutal forward you have to pass neutral a little bit into reverse then back to the neutral detent and it works fine.<br /><br />Thaks everyone for your help. Now it's just a metter of gettin in the water and testing it out this Sat.<br /><br />Later<br /><br />Sarc

 

[sarconastic]

Re: '72 Mercury 1150 Need Schematics

I posted this in the forum but got no replys from anyone so maybe the guys following this thread would be able to help me.<br />*Quoted from other post* <br />I have a '72 Merc 1150 that starts good, idles great but will not accelerate. It will rev the engine with the warm up lever some. But when you put it in gear, you have to run the throttle full forward and you get the boat moving just enough to create a wake. It's not even trying, doesn't bog, seems to run pretty smooth. I tried pumping on the primer bulb, thinking maybe fuel pump wasn't pumping, it kind of made the motor bog just a tiny bit. didn't hesitate or anything but it did slow it a little. I don't have a tac, but it would guess it's not getting over 1200 RPM's at the best.<br /><br />I haven't checked the compression yet but will do so tommorrow. We just got back from a very dissapointing day at the lake. Hauled everything 60 miles there and no water sports today aside from swimming at the beach.<br /><br />I know the fuel is good, the tank was completely empty. Good oil mix. We ran it at that speed accross the lake to the local marina, got the Mechanic there to come out a take a peek at it, and without starting it immediatley starting talking dropped cylinders. While he's looking I inpect things little more, I was wondeing if the throttle linkage and everything was working. and it is. The butter flys are opening fully, the dist. is advancing. Both forward and reverse, all things seems to be mechanically moving. the choke flaps are open when not choked and working fine when activated. I checked the spark here at home prior to leaving while getting it started, it appears fine.<br /><br />I have read through the forum a lot and carbs seem to be the idea, but was wondering if it could be stuck reeds, just need to clean jets or am I am I going to get some experience rebuilding mercury carbeurators? Just one side note the boat was sitting 3 years prior to my aquiring it and spending the last two weeks getting it going again.<br /><br />Thanks<br />Sarc.

 

[phatmanmike]

Re: '72 Mercury 1150 Need Schematics

check your throttle plates are ope all the way weh WOT. (with engine off of course)... maybe need to adjust throttle cables, i just put new cables in mine 1976 1150 and had same problem till i readjusted the cables... just a thought

 

[sarconastic]

Re: '72 Mercury 1150 Need Schematics

The throttle Plates (butterflys on carb) if those are what you mean are opening all the way.<br /><br />Sarc