1980 V200 Ignition

[mwbaughan]

Was crusin on the ocean yesterday and she shut down on me. Went to crank and no fire - sea-tow!<br /><br />I am checking the ignition switch first. Ok - when you turn the key to on - should you get 12volts across the orange wire? Or should the orange just pulse weakly (using light) only when the flywheel turns. Perhaps this is the difference in marine verses auto. If the switch is bad, would using a jumper red to orange work?<br /><br />I suspect the trigger, but thought I better check the switch first. Also what do you recommend for trigger and switch box testing?<br /><br />Still crazy bout my mercury. thanks.....mark

 

[Laddies]

Re: 1980 V200 Ignition

That is alternator driven ign. it should not have 12 volts connected to it that will destroy it. the trigger is 3 differant windings so its probably not that, it has 2 switch boxs so that not the problem either, so if you disconnect the blk/yellow wires from the switch boxs and still have no spark it is probably the stator, the ohm test is not as good as using a DVA but most owners would not have one---Bob

 

[mwbaughan]

Re: 1980 V200 Ignition

thanks, i will check the stator then.<br /><br />mark

 

[mwbaughan]

Re: 1980 V200 Ignition

ohm checked stator, 3 out of 4 checks in spec,<br />between blue/white red/white leads only reading 4 (should be 5.4-6.2) Is this a tipical variance for stator failure? <br /><br />Bam marine lists 3 different stators for this motor. Don't see any numbers - which to order?

 

[mwbaughan]

Re: 1980 V200 Ignition

don't think mine has a voltage regulator so the <br />A7 model should work - just ordered<br /><br />still curious about that slight reading variance

 

[Laddies]

Re: 1980 V200 Ignition

Bodyman see if you can borrow a DVA I don't think that small of diffence will hurt

 

[Laddies]

Re: 1980 V200 Ignition

the 16 amp stator has 5/8" laminations, red&red/white should be 20 volt + and blue blue/white should be 180 volts + The trigger wires 5 volts, hope this helps---bob

 

[mwbaughan]

Re: 1980 V200 Ignition

I will try new stator when it gets here (4 days?)<br /><br />Will let you know what happens next!<br /><br />My repair manual says replace if not in any of<br />the specified ranges. <br /><br />If I have a spare stator - so be it.<br /><br />What would be suspect if not the stator? How about that mercury switch? Do they go bad? How <br />to check?

 

[Laddies]

Re: 1980 V200 Ignition

I think with the Blk/yellow wires disconnected from the boxs that the mercury switch is to

 

[gss036]

Re: 1980 V200 Ignition

I would pull the harness apart that is on the starboard (right) side of the engine, just under the starter. Check on the condition of the connections. I had mine short out last spring and burnt across the connections where the male/female pins mate ruining the plug. Rather than spending $350+ for the harness, it was wired direct since I figured the only time that 1989 200 HP will come off the transom will be for replacemnt,so will need a new harness for a new motor,.

 

[mwbaughan]

Re: 1980 V200 Ignition

thanks Gary, I will check wires again

 

[mwbaughan]

Re: 1980 V200 Ignition

I replaced the stator with a new one and got fire - so the small resistance variance must have made a difference. Ran it a few times <br />with muffs while I was trouble shooting a fuel <br />delivery problem. Had been starting and idling well with the new stator. Reved the motor a little after idling for 15 minutes and it cut off. No fire now and the stator resistance is 3.5 on both sides! What could have messed up my new stator so quick!

 

[KCLOST]

Re: 1980 V200 Ignition

Bodyman, This is a tough one....<br /><br />If you are sure that the stator has failed again, make sure all electrical ground leads are grounded, on every ignition component, cleaned and double checked again... <br /><br />Once that is checked, I would recommend not replacing the stator again with a mercury one. Go with a CDI/Rapair..(assuming you didn't already). They are much better designed and have the ability to cool much more efficiently... <br />I've heard of multiple stator failures, that were never cured until a new CDI stator was installed, this was the case on new motors.. Mercury didn't do a good job on their design..<br /><br />Now this is just my opinion, but it may help... But please check all grounds at least, that could be it.... It sounds like you are frying it because of such a problem..! Hopefully someone else may have more input also...

 

[mwbaughan]

Re: 1980 V200 Ignition

Thanks KCLOST. My mistake, I did not disconnect the leads before the checks - got 6.2 - the stator is good. The trigger tests bad - had another spare that I picked up off ebay - bad also. Well ordering a trigger and that should do the trick. Thanks.............Mark

 

[mwbaughan]

Re: 1980 V200 Ignition

saga update! got a new trigger from bam.<br /><br />stator checks out good (with leads off the box)<br /><br />new trigger gets same as others 3.7 ohms @ rx1000 (should be 11-14 @ rx100) would 3.7 @ rx1000 be 37 at <br /><br />since trigger wires must be attached to grounded boxes when ohm checked, and trigger is new - maybe it is my switch boxes? how do you check them?

 

[mwbaughan]

Re: 1980 V200 Ignition

ok - I went back out and checked all my grounds again. in the process i found i was only getting 12 volts to my switch box intermitantly<br />traced it to a loose orange wire at the key switch and soldered it - fire, fire,yes!<br /><br />ok - now all i have to do is get the water out of my gas, i put a racor with a clear bottom on and drained out about a cup of brown tinted water<br />then got blue mixed gas, must still be enough <br />water (not visable) but clogs the racor - idled<br />for about 7 minutes and cut off<br /><br />i got about 30 gallons of fuel, any chance of treating and just draining some?