fried starter?

[seanik]

having intermitent problems trying to get my merc 1150 to turn over. when the key is turned ocassioanlly the starter motor will turn and crank the motor. other times i hear a static sounding click click click and then nothing at all. If I try to crank again immedietly I get nothing and have to wait a minute or so before I can get either the clicking or motor to turnover.<br /><br />when the motor does turn over and crank the battery leads get so hot that the plastic around the terminal poles is smoking.<br /><br />thanks in advance for any troubleshooting assistance.

 

[cdnfthree]

Re: fried starter?

I had those exact symptoms shortly after I bought my boat. I had continued trieng to start the boat when flooded before I knew how to choke it and shortly afterwards those problems began. First I replace the solenoid and nothing. Next, I removed the starter motor, took it apart and found that all those attempted starts had ruined it. It was filled with dust. Sanded, filed, cleaned, and reassembled, going on 1 complete year of perfect starts. As for static clicking, I'd oil armature and gear assembly. Hope this helps

 

[cdnfthree]

Re: fried starter?

I'm taking that back. If leads are that hot with the repetative clicking, it sounds like a lose or corroded battery connection that isn't delivering 12 volts. Sorry but I'd start there. Easier

 

[Silvertip]

Re: fried starter?

Any time a starter fails to turn the engine make the following checks: 1) Make sure the battery is known to be good and is fully charged Measure the voltage with the key in the start position. If it drops to less than 10.5 volts the battery needs replacing or it needs charging. 2) Scrap the wing nuts on the batter terminals and replace them with "stainless steel" nuts and internal lock washers. Make sure those terminals are squeaky clean and tight. Do the same on the engine end of the battery cables. 3) Using a single jumper cable, connect one end to the POS terminal on the battery and the other end to the large terminal on the starter. If the starter spins, its obviously ok and you need to continue looking. If not, 4) Using the second jumper cable, connect one end to the NEG terminal on the battery and other end to a good ground (unpainted) area on the engine block. Repeat #3 above. If the starter now spins, check/replace the ground cable. If the tests so far have failed, chances are the starter is bad. They can generally be rebuilt by your local auto electric (starter/generator/alternator) shop much cheaper than buying new. At this point, if the starter works, but not with the ignition key, use a short length of 12 gauge wire to jump the solenoid. Touch one end of the wire to large terminal that has the POS battery cable connected to it. Connect the other end to the small terminal that comes from the ignition switch. If the starter works, the solenoid is OK. Use a voltmeter to see if there is voltage on the small terminal with the key in the START position. If not, the switch is bad, the neutral start switch is bad or there is a wiring problem. If jumping the solenoid does not work, the solenoid is bad. Do these tests in the order listed or you will end up chasing your tail (so to speak).

 

[seanik]

Re: fried starter?

cdnfthree and Upinsmoke thanks for the replies and suggestions.<br /><br />I suspect it is a bad battery connection as the pos lead wire has a spot that is in pretty bad shape. Was planning on replacing anyway, but did not want to melt a new harness if there was another issue causing the hot leads. I did not know poor connections would cause that heat in the leads. To be safe I'll also jump the starter to make sure it is in working condition as upinsmoke suggested.<br /><br />I'll post results next week as boat is stored 4hrs away on the Rock.

 

[seanik]

Re: fried starter?

Finally got back to the lake after about a month...<br /><br />I replaced the battery lead but still nothing when the key is turned. I was able to get the engine to start by jumping the solenoid from the pos lead on the solenoid to the lead from the ignition switch. Looks like it is pointing to either the key switch or the neutral switch.<br /><br />Anyone have suggestions on how to troubleshoot these?<br /><br />Thanks for all the help so far.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: fried starter?

do you have a multi meter ?

 

[seanik]

Re: fried starter?

yep just need to put a new battery in it

 

[rodbolt]

Re: fried starter?

let us know when you have a decent battery in your muli meter, and if its analog or digital. then I can explain how to do a simple test to find your problem

 

[seanik]

Re: fried starter?

Thanks rodbolt,<br /><br />it's a digital meter, it will be a few weeks until I can get back down to the boat as I store it about 4hrs away.<br /><br />I'd appreciate the steps required to test so I can take them with me as I don't have net access at the lake house.

 

[seanik]

Re: fried starter?

Finally got a break from work (gotta love tax season)and the wife is letting me head to the lake for the weekend. It's been awhile since I started this topic but still have not been able to test either the ignition or neutral switch.<br /><br />Does anyone have the test procedures Rodbolt mentioned above for these as it is not detailed in my seloc manual.<br /><br />Thanks!

 

[Chris1956]

Re: fried starter?

Seanik, First thing it to check the condition of the battery cables, connectors and the quick disconnect at the motor. Also check the ground cable from the upper cowl support bracket to the starter, and from the engine wiring harness to the lower cowling. <br /><br />I found a nick in the insulation on my positive battery cable under the gunwale, which allowed the wire to be corroded down to two strands. Can't find this with an ohm test. Examine the cables from battery to motor, up under the gunwale. If they are OK, turn on the ign switch. Measure the voltage at the battery, on the hot side of the starter solenoid primany, the hot terminal of the switchbox (red and white wires on distributor ignition). The voltage should be the same. Now have someone turn the key and measure the voltage at the starter solenoid secondary (solenoid wire from the key switch), and if the motor cranks, measure the voltage at the battery and the starter. When you find the voltage drop, you will need to isolate it to the cabble or more likely the connector with the corrosion or wire breakage.<br /><br />I have also had wires in the quick disconect female plug break. You will need to test for continuity from the control box to the plug, to find this.

 

[MercFan]

Re: fried starter?

After you double checked the following:<br />Battery terminals (No corrosion, clean, tight)<br />Battery (Fully charged, Does not drop below 10.5 during cranking)<br />Battery leads (Insulation in good condition, free of corrosion, no burnt off strands)<br />Earth (Cleaned and tested to chassis, also check starter earth to battery (-). Must have virtually 0 resistance.<br />Neutral switch and key checked.<br />Motor connector plug (Clean, expand the male terminals very slightly with a knife)<br /><br />After all this I'd suspect the contacts in your solenoid. It should be replaced, but you can open the "sealed" unit with some difficulty. Use sand paper to clean the contact points and retest.<br /><br />All in all, it doesn't sound that your starter motor is burnt, yet. Be sure to prime, and use the choke on first start. And don't crank the engine for more than about 7 seconds at a time. If the starter motor feels warm to the touch, chances are the coils inside are a lot hotter.<br />It might also be worth while to check that your choke flaps really seal on your throats. You can get them closer to the carbs by tightening the nuts on the pivot shafts around which they rotate when opening/closing.<br /><br />Each engine has it's own tricks to staring it. I prime my 1150 in the trailered position to get at one or 2 drops of fuel out the carb throughts. Then trim it down and start with choke. It's actually flooded when I start it, but if I prime it trimmed down it takes ages to start. Seems like the fuel fumes in the throughts help with the cold starts.