in-line 6 merc water in #2 cylinder 115hp

brucem101

Recruit
Joined
Jan 21, 2006
Messages
1
afte running my 115 merc i noticed it idled roughly. after inspection and pulling plugs i fornd the plug in my #2 cylinder was clean and that it had been burning water in that cylinder only. what could be a list of possible problems and solutions? bruce
 

rodbolt

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 1, 2003
Messages
20,066
Re: in-line 6 merc water in #2 cylinder 115hp

either it corroded a hole through the "jug" not real likly or the exhaust divider plate let go. that was the common problem. the inner diverter may be leaking as well. none are an easy fix due to the odds of the bolts breaking.
 

emckelvy

Commander
Joined
Jan 16, 2004
Messages
2,506
Re: in-line 6 merc water in #2 cylinder 115hp

You'll need to pull the powerhead to remove the outer exhaust cover and inner plates. If this is a salt motor, use extreme caution to avoid breaking bolts as Rodbolt mentioned.<br /><br />A MAPP gas torch (relatively inexpensive from Lowe's etc) produces enough heat to help loosen up the bolts. Don't apply any more than normal force from 3/8" ratchet to get them loose or you'll snap them off.<br /><br />Worse case, drill out the bolt heads then remove the outer cover and exhaust baffle. At least then you can get vise grips on the remnants and apply heat directly.<br /><br />As for the inner cover around the ports, you'll probably have to dig out all the carbon deposits around the bolt heads before you can get a socket on them. Use a 6-point socket to avoid stripping out the bolt heads, and lots of heat.<br /><br />Recommnend replacing both the inner port cover and exhaust baffle, especially in a salt motor. If you have a fresh water motor and the covers aren't corroded badly, check them for warpage and possible re-use. Only reuse them if they look to be in real good shape.<br /><br />If the sealing surface of the block where the outer exhaust baffle is badly pitted/corroded, or the inner surface around the ports, you can have them machined. Tell the machinist to take down both areas an equal amount. Very important to maintain the correct relationship between inner and outer sealing surfaces, for example if the outer surface was machined without a corresponding amount taken off the inner surface, the exhaust baffle might bottom out on the inner cover.<br /><br />Note if you get it apart and it's obviously only the exhaust baffle leaking, you might consider leaving the inner port cover alone. Just a thought, if it's not leaking many mechanics prefer not to mess with it.<br /><br />Hopefully you've got a fresh water motor and it'll come apart easily. Out here there's mostly salt motors and we don't get the pleasure of working on fresh ones too often!!!<br /><br />HTH & G'luck........ed
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,778
Re: in-line 6 merc water in #2 cylinder 115hp

Had an old 22 hp Scott Atwater develop a corrosion hole in the cylinder wall years ago....was a saltwater engine.<br /><br />Mark
 

Clams Canino

Commander
Joined
Jan 10, 2004
Messages
2,179
Re: in-line 6 merc water in #2 cylinder 115hp

Ya.. Odds are it's an exhaust plate issue. Fixable - yes. But the novice needs to beware broken bolts. Bruce, I see you're very close to me. If you need some help, give me a yell.<br /><br />-W
 

horsefly38425

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 8, 2003
Messages
204
Re: in-line 6 merc water in #2 cylinder 115hp

Love them 115's when running but you my have got it hot and hurt it a little if it has water in that cly you will to ck for wall/piston damage
 
Top