Hey KCLOST...Let's talk more about the water schematic.

Texasmark

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Dec 20, 2005
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Got the schematic. Thanks,<br /><br />I have a 3 cyl but the process is probably the same; same things to consider, just half the process.<br /><br />On understanding the flow diagram, have a couple of things that aren't clear.<br /><br />1. The role of the pressure relief valve is not clear. If the purpose of it is to relieve system pressure at high rpm's where there is a lot of ram pressure from the water pickup, what happens at low speed?<br /><br />I have proven on my engine with the initially stuck closed tstat that the telltale squirts without any regard for the position of the stat. According to this schematic, that says it gets (has to get) it's water from around the press relief valve.<br /><br />So, That means that the valve opens slightly at like idle impeller pressure and opens more when you are ballin the jack. That would explain a lot.<br /><br />Would also explain the designers intent in the design of the telltale circuit making it a good clue to a bad impeller. I know that's what it's for, but this forces it to play a more positive roll.<br /><br />If it (the impeller) couldn't develop enough pressue at idle to open the press rel valve slightly to get the tell tale squirting (and some much needed cooling spray to the exhaust tubes) it's time to change it. Very clever on Merc's part. Guess the other guys have similar things.<br /><br />Now that makes a lot of sense and answers another question (#2) about cooling vertical outboard motors with flow thru cooling water (as compared to self contained like in a car). I always wondered how they keep the water jackets full of water.<br /><br />So that say that the cooling line going to these 2 places from the cylinder's water jackets is(are) rather small and even though some water is circulated, not a large volume allowing the water around the cylinders to heat to the point where the stat opens.<br /><br />Then when you are balling the jack, the stat must be wide open and that path plus the press relief valve being wide open allows adequate cooling at the higher rpm's. Makes sense.<br /><br />Guess I don't have that many questions after all.<br />-------------------------<br /><br />So, in the case of the initial problem, Mr. Mortey's '88 150, he could have several problems; tstat, press relief valve, or clogged tubes connecting the system as shown on your schematic. So now you have given him places to look for an answer to his problem.<br /><br />I have learned a bunch about Merc cooling systems from this and I am sure a lot of readers have too; readers that may have wondered how it works for a long time.<br /><br />Having made my career as an engineer, I was taught, and learned that you question everything as to what, where, why, and when. Once you have done that you have the building blocks of the (any) system and all you have to do is walk through the process to trouble shoot and fix it. When you come across something that doesn't fit the process, you have found the problem.<br /><br />Thanks, and sorry for the rudeness....but it did get the desired result. Yeah I know.....there are other ways. I have been classified as "Direct" by my ex co-workers because of my ....lack of.....tact. Sorry.<br /><br />Best Regards,<br /><br />Mark
 

Texasmark

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Re: Hey KCLOST...Let's talk more about the water schematic.

Forgot something.<br /><br />My original belligerance was based upon your reply to my suggestion about removing things.<br /><br />At the time I couldn't see why not (obviously, in hindsight I was ignorant) and I was wondering who were you to say what you said.<br /><br />So as it turns out, I had no business suggesting things of which I knew apparently little, and you were absolutely correct in your answer.<br /><br />So here I was guilty of what I was trying to prevent.......misguided information for the reader.<br /><br />Thanks,<br /><br />Mark
 

andy6374

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Aug 4, 2005
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Re: Hey KCLOST...Let's talk more about the water schematic.

I don't mean to jump in on the post, but I can't help myself :D .<br /><br />The cooling of the engine is controlled differently at different RPM ranges. At idle speeds the poppet valve is closed and the cooling is all t-stat controlled. You will see your tell-tale stream increase or decrease when the the tstat opens and closes, respectively. You will still see a tiny stream when the tstat is closed as it has vents to allow some water flow. The poppet plays no role in the cooling of the engine at idle speeds, other than the fact that it must remain closed. If the poppet was stuck open the block would never fully fill with water resulting poor water circulation and hence an overheat.<br /><br />At higher RPM's the cooling of the block is pressure controlled (ie. the poppet). Between 2500-3000 RPM's the poppet is pushed open from the water pressure with in the block. You can actually watch the decrease in the water pressure via a gauge when the poppet opens. This then empties excess water thru the exhaust so water pressure doesn't build up and thus aids in the circulation of water throughout the block. <br /><br />The tell-tale is a indicator that the impeller is operating period, but doesn't really give you a good indication in regards to the health of your impeller. That's why a water pressure gauge is esstenial. Become familar with water pressures at certain RPMs with a known working system, and then from there on in any deviations from a known water pressure will tell you that something is wrong. Like the impeller is getting worn. The poppet isn't opening or closing.<br /><br />Hope this helps.
 

KCLOST

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Jun 22, 2002
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Re: Hey KCLOST...Let's talk more about the water schematic.

No problem Texasmark,,,<br /><br />Andy has explained the system very, very well, as to the operation of the cooling system.<br /><br />After the t-stats open you might as well take them out of the equation beyond that point because they will be open with any increase in rpm... If they did close again the water in the heads would start to boil within seconds.<br /><br />You can actually see on a pressure guage not only when the poppet valve opens, but also when the t-stats do... My engine will run about 10psi at idle but when the t-stats open it drops down to 5psi.. <br /><br />With increased rpm the poppet comes into play to open a release port (so to speak) to allow additional water to circulate the entire system. Without it you will have boiling water somewhere eventually. <br />It really shouldn't be called a "pressure relief valve" because water pressure doesn't cool the engine, water flow and the proper amount of it does. It does however reduce pressure as a result of increasing flow, so whatever :D <br /><br />I like the term "flow increase valve" which opens at the proper water pressure... It sounds kind of crappy, but that is why it is there...<br /><br />Like Andy said, if it is open at rpms and water pressure levels below what is needed to open it, the flow of water needed to cool the entire system will be dumped out and then you know what happens. :eek:
 

KCLOST

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Re: Hey KCLOST...Let's talk more about the water schematic.

This is a great way to look at water pressures during various rpm ranges, this was posted by Trumanlake several years ago. I always like to keep it current for all of us Black Max owners...<br /><br />A couple of things to think about, 1) the temperature of the water that you are running in the hose is what compared to the lake water, 2) what kind of pressure are you running on the garden hose? (more than 14-16 psi. will open the poppet valve and all kinds of cool water will flow. Remember that your water pump will put out approximately 5-11 psi @ idle (800 rpm roughly) after the thermostats open up, before then 10-14 psi @ idle. Once motor is warmed up and thermo's open it will take approx. 2600-3000 rpm to develop 18-20 psi. If you have a pressure gauge you can see exactly when all this occurs. If you idle away from the dock (no wake area) say 200-300 yds. then gas it you would see the pressure gauge start to climb then drop back just slightly as the thermo's open then as the rpm's increase the pressure will start climbing again. Now at this point (around 2200-2400 rpm) if you can turn around (carefully) you should notice a good tell tale but you will probably not notice any water being dumped out the exhaust ports on the backside of the motor, and the pressure will be fairly constant @ around 13-14 psi. Keep increasing the rpm's, at some point around 2500-3000 rpm the poppet should open because there is enough pressure to unseat the valve. Once the valve opens turn around (carefully again) and now you should notice that along with the tell tale you also have water being dumped out the exhaust ports. As the rpm's keep increasing the gauge will keep climbing and finally stop around 22-25 psi.
 

Texasmark

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Dec 20, 2005
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Re: Hey KCLOST...Let's talk more about the water schematic.

Thanks for the replies guys.<br /><br />Well, yesterday I had the 90 out with the newly installed thermostat (as a result of your comments about needing it) and things were surely smoother. She started faster, idled smoother, and when it came time to restart, after stopping off at a fishing spot and moving on, she fired right up; no hesitation, no priming required. And it was obvious the old stat being stuck was my original problem, as I had no warning horns go off and everything was super in that category.<br /><br />So you made a believer out of me and every couple of years the stat is coming out and a new one going in .....along with the impeller.<br /><br />Thanks,<br /><br />Mark
 
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