Water Pump 225/1993

[swist]

I had my lower unit replaced 5 yrs ago due to grounding damage. I assume a new water pump came with the unit.<br /><br />Nevertheless it is 5 yrs later in salt water and I'd like to change the impeller again. Seems straightforward in Clymer book, although I think I'll wait until end of season to avoid changing gear oil twice (and then I can do it on land).<br /><br />The parts explosion on this site does not show a kit - just individual parts. Looks like I need two o-rings and an impeller and that's it? Advice given elsewhere said not to bother with gasket under the lower plate.<br /><br />Is there a gasket between the lower unit and the rest of the engine?<br /><br />Any other gotchas?

 

[Ray Neudecker]

Re: Water Pump 225/1993

No gasket between gear case and mid section.Replacement of the o rings and impellor should be enough. Installing the impellor without dislodging the o ring is enough gotcha. Do not use silicon to hold the o ring in place. Many times it will actually keep the base from sealing properly. I use white lithium myself. It would also be a good idea to replace the thermostats and service the pop it valve at the same time. Don't forget the bolt hidden under the trim tab when taking off the gearcase. Good Luck.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Water Pump 225/1993

hello<br /> buy the kit from yamaha<br /> use a chisel and a hammer and drive the drive key down to free it from the shaft. dont use lithium in saltwater. its a metal and sometimes will react with other metals in saltwater. just use a soap based grease. replace the wearplate gasket,wear plate,impeller drive key,impeller both orings and the insert cup and all will be happy. remove the pressure valve grommet and scrape the corrosion off the pocket and replace the grommet, replace the T-stats. dont be so cheap its only 3 dollars more to change the gear oil. 4 if you buy new drain and fill gaskets. this is not a car. you must be proactive with repairs if your reactive it can get very expensive. <br /> good luck and keep posting

 

[swist]

Re: Water Pump 225/1993

OK. I see where all this stuff is except the pressure valve grommet. Where is that?

 

[Ray Neudecker]

Re: Water Pump 225/1993

Lower rear of the powerhead with large hose attached. Never thought about the lithium and salt water. We have to add salt to make salt water here.

 

[swist]

Re: Water Pump 225/1993

Ok, I see it now. None of those other parts in that valve assembly or grommet half to be replaced? Just scrape crud? Can't complain about the parts cost!<br /><br />What does that valve do, anyway?

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Water Pump 225/1993

replace the grommet. the gasket if you tear it<br /> wipe the gasket and bolts with some grease and its ready to reassemble.<br /> <br />Ray is up there with the freshwater types that cant use a smoke wrench <br />I bet he even sees the old red and the white mercs as well as chryslers. I am lucky. here they all corroded away a long time ago

 

[swist]

Re: Water Pump 225/1993

Well now I have too different pinions from respected wrenches (1) just change the o-rings and impeller, and (2) replace a whole lot more (wearplate, wearplate gasket, impleller drive ket, and insert cup.<br /><br />Any big reason to do the second. I have mechanical skills but not on outboards.

 

[seahorse5]

Re: Water Pump 225/1993

Use your thumbnail on the inside of the impeller cup and the wear plate surfaces. If you can see or feel any grooves or worn areas anywhere on either item, replace everything with a factory water pump kit.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Water Pump 225/1993

do it5 as cheap as you possibly can and cut every corner and leave the manual closed. then ***** about what a terrible product it is.<br /> goode luck and keep posting

 

[swist]

Re: Water Pump 225/1993

Hey Rodbolt, you have to understand that there is a tradeoff involved here. Many of us in this forum have some mechanical skills but are not trained Yamaha mechanics who know all the little ins and outs. It is not a question of being cheap - it's making an intelligent decision about what kinds of preventive maintenance things we can do, or leave to a pro because the risk of screwing up something up is not worth taking. I can replace fuel pumps and thermostats with low risk. Taking the lower unit off is a little scary for those of us who don't do it every day. Once it's off we'd like to disturb things as little as possible before we wind up with a pile of gears on the floor. I think you wrenches have to be a bit careful when you give the layman advice about replacing everything in the vicinity of the part we're after to begin with. When I read "use a chisel and a hammer and drive the drive key down to free it from the shaft" please forgive me if I'm a little intimidated. I've screwed up plenty of things with chisels and hammers in my life.

 

[seahorse5]

Re: Water Pump 225/1993

I think what Rodbolt is saying, if you are going to do it yourself, do it right the first time. Don't go getting involved with tearing things apart until you know what you are doing. Obtain the correct manual, study the procedures, then if you feel uncomfortable or unsure of your abilities, seek the help of a QUALIFIED person.<br /><br />The factories sell repair kits that include parts that should be replaced to complete a repair. You don't just order a couple of gaskets, then try to rebuild a carburetor, you order a carb kit. A water pump kit is the same way.<br /><br />Rodbolt's description of using a hammer and chisel was a hint to help out those who might have had a problem getting a stuck woodruff key out the driveshaft. He was giving a "laymen" a hint on how to do something easily.<br /><br />As said by the great Harry Callahan (Clint Eastwood) in one of the Dirty Harry movies, "A man has to know his limitations."