Heres the manual for a 125hp but it will likely be the same for a 50 but one carb instead of two.
The manual says warm up engine and put it in neutral. Adjust the screw out (richer) until engine starts to 4 stroke (sputter). Dial it the opposite direction until it starts to run so lean it...
One other thing that I'd consider common with age when the primer never becomes firm with pumping is that the fuel pump diaphragm tears and no longer pumps. When this happens, fuel goes right through the diaphragm and into the crank case through the impulse hose (the small fuel line hose that...
I have unscrewed that myself on my first Force almost a decade ago... I knew when the screw came out and I saw the rounded end, I had done something wrong. I put it back in before the works dropped down and all was ok. But... it taught me a lesson.
At the end of the day it will just mean more...
I found a page in my manual about matching the shift rod to the shift mechanism in the motor caul that says find FWD mark the position, find REV mark the position, then set Neutral on the shift rod as right in the middle.
I'm finding play in the mechanisms means I have to go from Forward to...
I noticed today that WOT on the tower linkage (50HP) is not fully opening the throttle butterfly. So I lengthened what I assume is the throttle rod here. That seems to fix it and now the butterfly is flat and parallel to the choke butterfly.
But I'm also noticing that the shift linkage is a...
When in doubt, I replace the bulb and any fuel lines in question. Bulbs have check valves which can fail. The rubber becomes stiff with time (and gas drying out the rubber). I consider a primer bulb a 3-10 year item depending on if gas has ethanol in it or not.
The other issue can be fuel pump...
I was really watching it and checked both cylinders. I didn't want to have a case where the engine linkage was advancing timing AND the CDIs were also advancing and end up with say 50 deg BTDC. So I was glad to see 26. That's probably costing me a few MPH speed. I should check it at 30 deg BTDC...
Update:
I took the boat out on the lake today and ran a near full tank of gas through it. I checked dynamic timing on both cylinders. They're both running 26 degrees before TDC on top and bottom cylinder (I made a mark equidistant to the #1 cylinder's 0 and 30 degree tick for the #2 cylinder and...
This was a dumb move on my part but I had the key switch out for replacement and had to hold it still with one hand in order to crank after I had it rewired and was wanting to check it before tucking it back into the dash. I put my left hand around the switch body to hold it still and turned the...
I didn't realize there was a conversion harness. I just saw $200 a pop used for Force CDIs and figured I'd try another route. These are $26 for a pair of CDIs, 5 pin plug wiring harnesses, and coils. The coils bullet connector into the CDI harness.
I put a light on it at idle (which I realize...
I just found a document from Vishay on finding the correct size (power rating) for a pulsed load carrying resistor.
https://www.vishay.com/docs/48516/_ms9702509-2003-vishaychecklistpulseload.pdf
This document says the relationship between continuous and pulsed is that quite a lot more power can...
I should also post the original wiring for this engine for reference and to allow for color code correlation to the Force OEM ignition parts. My engine is the Pre-D model in the top half of the diagram. My two original CDI/Coil units are these ones.
That is a concern and I'm going only off of what I'd read from the Honda side of things (reported stator voltages). At this point, this only a science experiment until I have some hours of use. It seems it may be workable for my situation since I never go far from the boat launch and can usually...
